Questions for Q45 Tech on F50

[StarPD]

I've read many of your posts about regular and continued maintenance on Q45s to keep them in top shape. While many of them address bringing an older (and poorly maintained) one up to snuff, what about recent relatively new ones?

In my case, as you may recall, I bought an '05 Q45 in January '07 with 24,000 miles on it. I immediately did a complete engine oil flush, changed oil and then again in 500 miles, using 5-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance.In the past 7 months, I then:

* Put new tires and wheels on it*Had a four wheel alignment done at the dealer. *Had the steering rack tightened*Had new brakes installed*Had the brake system flushed*Had the transmission flushed*Had the, cooling system flushed*Had radiator and evap coils blown out from back side and cleaned *Had diff drained and refilled w/ 75-90 synthetic gear lube*Had throttle body cleaned*Had both front window run rubbers replaced (to cure squealing)*Replaced battery*Had new air filter and cabin air filter replaced, * Had the tail light recall performed, *Had the gas filler cap replaced*Had the windshield wipers replaced*Had a complete detail performed by the guys who do the vehicles for Barrett-Jackson auto auction; underhood, interior, and exterior.

I plan on having the complete fuel system serviced, and the steering system and cooling fan flushed within two months.

The car is now 2-1/2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.

What other items do you suggest I have addressed now, and/or in the next 6 months? When should I address hoses and belts, suspension components (and which parts), and other items? MAF, IAC, EGR, etc?

I want to keep the car in as close to "as new" as is reasonably practical, and don't want to run into the surprises that "deferred maintenance" creates. I suspect that your advice will benefit other F50 owners, and hopefully help them to avoid the horror stories we all read here about new owners buying their Q45 at a good deal, then finding out they have to spend thousands to take care of things that owners should do as a matter of routine, but frequently don't. The owners's manual lists much of what is normal maintenance, but doesn't go into detail about the stuff that so many find out the hard way needs attention after it's too late, and is usually expensive because it has been ignored..

Can you list YOUR recommendations of maintenance that should be done on a mileage and time basis for newer F50s to keep them in good repair?

Thanks.

[maxnix]

In AZ, I would be running a 75W-140 synthetic in the differential.

Don't think T-3 has seen enough F50 to know where they break. Also no VLSD will not entice Q45tech. Very Lexuslike in that area, unfortunately.

[Q45tech]

We have about 8 -- 2002 and later Cima customers plus an assortment of early M45 customers.

All I can say is to change every filuid and filter frequently................be sure to follow the 90 day oil change interval..............especially since it appears you only drive 12k per year.

You might find some interesting pictures in the VH/VK portion of forum showing the lightening of the piston and rod components in your engine.

[StarPD]

We have about 8 -- 2002 and later Cima customers plus an assortment of early M45 customers.

All I can say is to change every filuid and filter frequently................be sure to follow the 90 day oil change interval..............especially since it appears you only drive 12k per year.

You might find some interesting pictures in the VH/VK portion of forum showing the lightening of the piston and rod components in your engine.

Thanks. I'm pretty religious about changing oil and other fluids. I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil, and I NEVER start the car unless I'm going to drive it long enough for the oil to completely reach normal operating temp. Accordingly, I change oil every 3,000 miles or every four months, whichever comes first. I intend to flush the trans every year, and flush the cooling system, steering system, and brake system and engine cooling fan fluid every two years, regardless of if the owner's manual recommends longer intervals.

I was more concerned with maintenance on the more obscure stuff, like MAF, IAC, EGR, KS, and so on. Also, when should I start to worry about hoses and suspension items. It gets HOT here in Phoenix, and hoses, belts, and electrical wire insulation, not to mention other plastic parts, are a concern.

As far as engine lightening, there's not much I can do about that except to make sure I don't abuse the motor, (no overheating or frequent redlining)and keep oil changed frequently with good synthetic of the correct viscosity.

[Q45tech]

Personally I don't think 4 months 120 days is adequate because of the small sump capacity but each to their own...............oils have gotten better in recent years but you never known unless you have lab test performed.

If longevity and minimum ring wear is the prime concern then air filters are need to be changed frequently and maybe even another filter added in series with oem.............a sort of prefilter.

A micron sized parallel oil filter could be added. Along with an oil/coolant heater for winter and anytime the oil or coolant drops below 100F.

Whether you want the engine to last 500,000 miles is significant.

[mhoepfin]

T3.... You will soon have 9 F50 customers.. lol.

I am in Woodstock and just bought a 2002 Q45.

Question on oil changes - Any issues having a run of the mill Jiffy Lube place do them?

Mike

[maxnix]

Question on oil changes - Any issues having a run of the mill Jiffy Lube place do them?

Mike

Do you really want minimum wage pit monkeys working on your Q45?

Read the posts and that should discourage you plenty.

[szh]

Question on oil changes - Any issues having a run of the mill Jiffy Lube place do them?

Yes, lots of issues. They tend to do very poor work - period! Leaving out heat-shields, not changing drain plug washers, screws, etc.

What I do is buy my own stuff (6 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 oil, and an OEM oil filter and a copper crush washer from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com) and then take everything to local shops (Goodyear Auto Center or Precision Tune typically) and watch them do the work properly.

If I had a lift, I'd do my own oil changes for sure.

Z

[StarPD]

Yes, lots of issues. They tend to do very poor work - period! Leaving out heat-shields, not changing drain plug washers, screws, etc.

What I do is buy my own stuff (6 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 oil, and an OEM oil filter and a copper crush washer from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com) and then take everything to local shops (Goodyear Auto Center or Precision Tune typically) and watch them do the work properly.

If I had a lift, I'd do my own oil changes for sure.

Z

I buy my own Mobil 1, then take it to the dealer. For $20, I get the oil changed (using my oil), a new Nissan Oil filter, new crush washer, drain plug and filter torqued to Infiniti specs, a complete inspection of the car bumper to bumper including brake pad wear, with written report, tires checked for pressure, wear, and wear patterns, all other fluids checked and topped off if necessary, and when finished, they wash it and clean the interior. Meanwhile, I sit in a beautiful waiting room eating their free donuts and sweet rolls, drink their coffee with whatever kind of sweetener or flavored creamer I want, or hot chocolate if I prefer, as much as I want of all of them, and read all the latest of their car magazines. Hard to beat.

[qship96]

Dont be so sure who is changing your oil at the dealer-all dealers hire semi skilled labor{young punks} to complete simple jobs like oil changes-they dont use factory trained techs for that! and how do you know that synthetic oil is ending up in YOUR engine,not the souped up civic that same flunkie drove in to work with?

[StarPD]

Dont be so sure who is changing your oil at the dealer-all dealers hire semi skilled labor{young punks} to complete simple jobs like oil changes-they dont use factory trained techs for that! and how do you know that synthetic oil is ending up in YOUR engine,not the souped up civic that same flunkie drove in to work with?

I know the tech who is the only one I let work on my car. He would never do that to me. Sometimes you just gotta trust pelople you do business with. Fact is if they would do something like that, they could just get young kids to do other work. They don't. And any place that changes your oil can substitute junk for good stuff unless you stand and watch them. Not worth the trouble for me. My dealer has alway been very good to me, and at least to my knowledge doesn't pull stuff like you mentioned. Whenever they do use subcontractors, they tell me in front. I've been in their shop, and have only seen trained techs changing oil and doing repairs.

[maxnix]

Dont be so sure who is changing your oil at the dealer-all dealers hire semi skilled labor{young punks} to complete simple jobs like oil changes-they dont use factory trained techs for that! and how do you know that synthetic oil is ending up in YOUR engine,not the souped up civic that same flunkie drove in to work with?

Good points. You have to watch. the deal is none of the Jifffy Lubes types are familiar with a Q45, and even getting them to remove the under engine tray can be a struggle.

Usually a tech will take a tour while it is on the rack and notice out of sorts suspension and improper leaks.
Modified by maxnix at 5:54 PM 8/2/2007

[szh]

I buy my own Mobil 1, then take it to the dealer. For $20, I get the oil changed (using my oil), a new Nissan Oil filter, new crush washer, drain plug and filter torqued to Infiniti specs, a complete inspection of the car bumper to bumper including brake pad wear, with written report, tires checked for pressure, wear, and wear patterns, all other fluids checked and topped off if necessary, and when finished, they wash it and clean the interior.

If I could get the Infiniti dealer to do all that for $20, I'd use them too! Unfortunately, locally, they want closer to $50 for all that. So, all my "in-between" oil changes are done at local shops, where I can supervise the work. This oil change labor costs me $10 to $12 - depending to which place is available (I call ahead).

The "other" oil changes (at the 7500 mile intervals where other work on the car is done) are all done at the dealer though. I take my own synthetic oil in though, and have them use the OEM filter, etc.

Z

[mhoepfin]

Intersting replies..

So would a Nissan dealer be acceptable for an oil change rather than the Infiniti dealer?

I've got to wonder what percentage of luxury car owners use the dealer for a routine oil change rather than a Jiffy Lube type place?

There's generally a high level of inconvienence going to the dealer for this, no?

Thanks!Mike

[szh]

Intersting replies..

So would a Nissan dealer be acceptable for an oil change rather than the Infiniti dealer?

Probably.

I've got to wonder what percentage of luxury car owners use the dealer for a routine oil change rather than a Jiffy Lube type place?

More than you might think, I suspect!

There's generally a high level of inconvienence going to the dealer for this, no?

Not for some people, I suppose!

Like I said, I only do it when I am at the dealer for osther stuff (like the 7500, 15000, 22500 mile, etc., work). The oil changes in between (3750, etc.) I get done at a local place near my work.

Z

[Q45man1]

I'm the poor guy here.I change my own oil for all my four cars. All synthetic. I have my stock of OEM oil filter and crush washer. Take the used oil to Kragen or Autozone. And have time to play golf in the weekend

[szh]

I'm the poor guy here.I change my own oil for all my four cars. All synthetic. I have my stock of OEM oil filter and crush washer. Take the used oil to Kragen or Autozone. And have time to play golf in the weekend

If I had a safe way to get to the oil filter and plug, then I'd do my own oil too ... I don't like the idea of using stands with a 4000+ lb car ... could be scary!

Z

[maxnix]

So would a Nissan dealer be acceptable for an oil change rather than the Infiniti dealer?

There's generally a high level of inconvienence going to the dealer for this, no?

Most Nissan dealer technicians have never worked on a VH45DE since it was exclusive to the G50.

Not really for the service. Iffy Lube just easier to get screwed at.

[elwesso]

My personal opinion is you never know how your car is going to get worked on unless you do it yourself. Personally, I would feel better about something being screwed up on my car because it was my fault... I change my own oil every 3 months in the summer, 4 months in the winter (because often when the car is driven, its driven for 100s of miles at a time, rest of the time it sits)..

to george: I dont like messing with things too much. Another problem is finding someone to do what you want to do.

doing yearly or bi yearly fuel rail flushes might help keep the injectors as new. I assume you are already on a 90 day regiment of BG44k? With such new injectors, 44k every 90 days you may only need rail flush every 2 years.

As far as the other things, if you want to be anal about it, you just have to take the plenum off and clean it really good. Would probably take no time at all if all you have to do is wipe clean, and you dont have to take out all kinds of gunk.

Once yearly is good enough for about everything. I clean my TB every year and clean whatever I can with the plenum on.

Suspension I would start worrying about after the car is 4 years old... Probably you dont have to worry about the stuff on the shocks and struts until its time to replace them. I see no reason to replace the rubber boots on the shocks and struts if theyre iffy, id put new stuff on new stuff, not new stuff on old stuff....

Other than that, 4 years id say you could start thinkin about replacing bushings.

Honestly I dont see the problem with regular redlining. That actually helps keep the lower end of the intake tract clean...

[szh]

Honestly I dont see the problem with regular redlining. That actually helps keep the lower end of the intake tract clean...

One of the Infiniti recommended procedures to reduce carbon buildup is to put the car into neutral, and rev the engine to redline a few times and let it run at 5,000 or more rpm for a short while (I forget how long ... I should go look it up).

Z