Questions about SPL tension rods.

[BurntClutch]

I've already ordered a pair and I'm waiting for them to arrive, but I have a couple questions:

1) Do they come already adjusted to stock length? The reason I ask is this is only the first round of a lot of suspension work (replacing all bushings, tie rod ends, etc.) and I don't want to have to get an alignment until I'm done everything (I'll probably do everything else in one shot).

2) I still have the longevity concerns I posted here , so has anyone made a boot for the pillowball ends? The only easy protection I can think of is to put a balloon over the end, but balloons don't hold up very well to the elements.

[veilside180sx]

no they do not come adjusted to stock length, that is up to you to do after you pull them off. As i just installed a set 3 days ago.

They work nice though.=) I had to get an alignment, but that was more for all the stuff i put on the rear than the front. The front if your'e extrememly careful in picking your length you might be able to get away with it for awhile. I wasn't so careful since i knew i was getting one the next day.

[Nismo_Freak]

2) I still have the longevity concerns I posted here , so has anyone made a boot for the pillowball ends? The only easy protection I can think of is to put a balloon over the end, but balloons don't hold up very well to the elements.

We have prolly well over 100 people running our tension rods problem free, some for longer than a year. The main problem that causes the lower control arm to break is that the polyurethane bushing is not designed to pivot nor is it designed to twist. The pillowball bushing we use in the SPL tension rods have full pivot and full twist motions in them. This gives the suspension no bind, which is what stresses the lower arm.

It's a far superior product, less flex, adjustability, and less binding. It even reduces weight over stock... using a billet aluminum shaft.

The only thing you need to change from factory, as far as installation goes, is to reduce the amount of torque you put on the nuts that go onto the lower control arm. They are supplied with lock washers, so there is no need for the high stock torque.

[BurntClutch]

We have prolly well over 100 people running our tension rods problem free, some for longer than a year. The main problem that causes the lower control arm to break is that the polyurethane bushing is not designed to pivot nor is it designed to twist. The pillowball bushing we use in the SPL tension rods have full pivot and full twist motions in them. This gives the suspension no bind, which is what stresses the lower arm.

It's a far superior product, less flex, adjustability, and less binding. It even reduces weight over stock... using a billet aluminum shaft.

The only thing you need to change from factory, as far as installation goes, is to reduce the amount of torque you put on the nuts that go onto the lower control arm. They are supplied with lock washers, so there is no need for the high stock torque.

I'm not worried about LCA breakage. I just want a way to keep crud out of the pillowball joint. Where I live, we get everything (dirt from plowed fields, flooding, road salt, etc.), so I want to make sure these last. I guess I'll need something more than just a dust boot since I do have to drive on flooded roads every once in a while. It'd be easy to do (balloon idea above) if I wasn't shooting for a zero maintenance solution.

[Nismo_Freak]

I'm not worried about LCA breakage. I just want a way to keep crud out of the pillowball joint. Where I live, we get everything (dirt from plowed fields, flooding, road salt, etc.), so I want to make sure these last. I guess I'll need something more than just a dust boot since I do have to drive on flooded roads every once in a while. It'd be easy to do (balloon idea above) if I wasn't shooting for a zero maintenance solution.

Email me: [email protected] I might have a solution.

[Def]

This link is from "another board", but I thought it would be helpful if anybody searches and finds this topic.

Link to info on dust boots for SPL spherical bushings:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/u...art=1

[BurntClutch]

Email me: [email protected] I might have a solution.

Sorry I took so long. Internet has been broken for a few days. I'll fire off an email as soon as my email program gets done downloading all the spam. :P

[BurntClutch]

Oh yeah, I got the rods yesterday. VERY nice and surprisingly light for a suspension component. I like how the majority of the weight is at the pillowball end where it barely affectes unsprung weight.

[Nismo_Freak]

Oh yeah, I got the rods yesterday. VERY nice and surprisingly light for a suspension component. I like how the majority of the weight is at the pillowball end where it barely affectes unsprung weight.

Yeah the "hardware" is steel, but the main shaft is aluminum.

When you torque them down, use about 10 - 20 lb. ft. less than OEM spec. They come with lock washers so the extra torque is not necessary.