questions about ARP head studs.

[r34 gtr]

i put them in yesterday and they all seem to sit at different heights when screwed in all the way. the one that concerns me is the one on the front intake-side of the engine. it sits much higher than all the others due to the short hole caused by the water pump being there. measuring up the thread it looks like i may have to stack 2 washers on top of each other so the nut doesnt run out of thread. did anyone else have this problem?

also, my fsm is missing the pages where it tells you the torque for the head bolts/studs. can someone tell me what they should be? the head is on the engine but i cant do anything because i have no idea what to do..

also, do i need to torque the studs in the block? i would think since theyre being pulled on they wouldnt have to be anything other than really friggin tight (which they certainly are, hehe).

if you notice im forgetting something please fill me in too. thanks!

- tim

[pulsar gtr]

I don't know man, I got mine but haven't installed them yet, I know boost boy have used them in the past and mentioned that you have dremmel the head so you can fit the nuts, but I don't remember him saying any thing about having studs longer than others, and yes you need to torque them to the block

Keep us updated as I will be installing my arp bolts some time in the near future

Head bolts need to be torqued at 22-ft-lb first timesecond time at 76ft-lbthird time Loosen all bolts completely4th time 22ft-lb5fth time 76ft-lb

Camshaft bolts8.7ft-lb

All that is according to the fsm

PULSAR GTRRafi

[r34 gtr]

ok, cool. it would be nice if dee would shed some light on what to do about the different-length bolts. so, dee? any suggestions? please? i would love you forever.

and thanks for the torques rafi, i really appreciate it.

- tim

[biosehnsucht]

bump for solution?

I've got almost everything else taken care of parts-wise, but I need to get some ARP head bolts now too. Pricing? there used to be another guy selling the ARP stuff too but I haven't seen him around in months..

stupid useless search function, they need to somehow reindex the whole board or something

[r34 gtr]

ask dee! he'll set you up with some really nice and quick. and yes, the search thingy is useless but i have manages to figure out its evil ways.

- tim

[Projex240]

you arent supposed to torque arp studs down at all--only hand tighten them. If you call arp--theyll tell you they torque down on their own when you tighten the studs. Thats what they told me and klatt anyway.

[r34 gtr]

thats what i figured. thought it was irrelevant since theyre just being pulled on. them being really tight as opposed to just being tight isnt going to make the thread any stronger.

and has anyone had this problem with the studs sitting at different lengths? am i the only one?

- tim

[fraz]

the bolt holes are not tapped all the way to the bottom. that is why the studs sit at uneven heights.

You will also notice that the bolt hole in the head that is above the stud that sticks out, is higher than the other ones. what i mean is if you put a head bolt into the 2 front holes, you will see that one sticks out further than the other one.ARP says turn them in by hand is tight enough.

It is very expensive for ARP stuff here in NZ, so i managed to find some bolts from another model nissan. They were a little too long, so i got a bottom tap and tapped the holes till the tap hit the bottom. I gained another 4-5 turns of the bolt which is around 7mm and was enough for the bolts to pull up when using 2 washers

FYI, the thread on CA DE blocks is M11x1.5mm ans CA single cam ones are M10x1.5mm

[r34 gtr]

awesome. yeah, i know that one hole is alot shallower due to the water pump being there. ill just be using 2 washers on that one bolt to make sure all goes well. thanks alot guys! as soon as i can get this mess with the oil lines figured out i can drop it back in.

- tim