I agree with boring out as little as possible which is why I snatched the 83.5mm I've read that things get complicated above and my thought process was, that since the engines have done a lot of miles it might be good to at least take off some of the material off that has seen all those miles by boring it out a little.Izento wrote: ↑Sat Mar 07, 2020 1:31 am
Pistons would be a nice added security to help your build and CPs are tried and true. Regardless of what you go with, just make sure you bore out the cylinders AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE. 83.5mm bore would be just fine, but if the cylinder walls are in good condition, go for 83mm if you can. The reason for this being, you want to leave meat on the walls for future rebuilds, and the CA doesn't have much bore capacity as is. From memory, people started having problems after 84mm, with 84.5 being the max basically (although they do make 85mm pistons for this engine). I personally went with Supertech 83.5 pistons, which have higher silicone content than CP, which means that the expansion rate of the piston metal is faster getting to operating temperature. This means that when you start up the engine, the famous "piston slap", which is basically the pistons wiggilying because they haven't expanded to operating temperature yet. This is important to consider if the care will be a weekend warrior and not strictly a track car. Sometimes I like to take my car out on a whim on the street, so having good piston warm up time is important to me. Also, these pistons are plenty strong for 300 WHP, and my goal is 350.
Just saw your update on getting Weisco pistons. Yes, be wary of the piston oil squirters for those pistons as they don't fit properly. I believe you might have to remove the squirters.
Don't worry about forged rods. 300 WHP for the CA rods is perfectly doable.
Polish your crank, new bearings, baffle your oil pan, ARP rod bolts (Datsun L20 rod bolts you can find on Ebay. Those are the correct ones to get).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-ROD-BOLT-K ... Sw0V1c5Wyt
Also, consider WPC treatment for your bearings, pistons and even crank (if you can pay for shipping to the US). If I tear my engine apart again, I'm definitely doing this.
Thanks for the input, I agree from what I've read so far.Compression Ratio:
Personally, I would stick with the stock compression ration. You'll make all your power back through the turbo and also, turbo tech is better these days to allow the power to come on quicker.
I saw these, they are not cheap but reasonable and were my prefered choice so far as well for exactly the reasons you mentioned.Cams:
I have Tomei 256 Poncams. They're the easiest to get a hold of and you don't need solid lifters or any change to the valvetrain. At your desired goals, I think this cam profile works best and is completely drop in.
the 3076 is definitely too big that would work against my goal of it spooling fast and I don't really plan on increasing power when I'm done with the build, so I'd rather stick to something smaller and specifically aimed at my whp target. The one I'm leaning towards so far is the EFR 6258 or maybe 6758 they come in t25 and are good for 400 or 450 bhp with the second being twinscroll ball bearing the first one being singlescroll but since it's so small it's a beast according to everything I've read so far.Turbo:
This part is the most subjective. Personally I would look for a GTX3076R twin scroll. Twin scroll has been highly proven to decrease spool time. Also, with the GTX model, they have decreased spool time by increased fin count and a different angle. Ball bearing, super fast, you really can't go wrong. Only word of advice would be to get a custom strong manifold and DO NOT but a premade one. I can't even remember a good premade one for the CA18 other than HKS which only 1 or 2 people have them on this forum and will not sell them due to the rarity.
Even still, a 3076 is kind of overkill, and you could certainly get away with a GTX2871R T28 variant and still hit your numbers. Still has the nice modern fin design and it would bolt directly to the stock manifold, which will definitely not crack.
Personally, I have a GT2871R 48 Trim wheel, which is smaller than the regular ones everyone runs in SRs. Spools great and I get full boost around 3200...I think (can't remember since I haven't driven her in a while).
Alright I'll look into the 550s, prices are vastly different in Europe though for a lot of stuff so something that might be cheap in the US could cost an arm and a leg here, which is why I try to find alternative solutions like the Evo injectors as those are more readily availableInjectors:
550cc injectors are fine. No need to go bigger and it's pretty easy to get a hold of these. Someone can add in where to source these. I believe ones from an RB20 work, but don't quote me on that, it's been a very long time since I've looked this stuff up.
Also remember that if you go too much over on cc, it's more difficult for your tuner to tune...ask me how I know (750cc injectors here). 550 should still give you room to grow if you so choose, but not be overbearing on your tuner.
Actually the reason why I asked about the R8s instead of the Splitfires is because I can get an adapter loom for the R8s (160ish €) and the 4x coils (120€) for less than the Splitfires would cost me (450€) and I read somewhere that since these are smartcoils they are supposedly better and eliminate the ignition module and are better for tuning. (still reading up on this though)Ignition:
I see no reason to get all crazy with R8 coils, but it is getting harder and harder to find new OEM plugs for the CA18 (or near impossible), so upgrading is kind of a necessity at this point. I've had problems with my coils and it's not fun having misfires and such. You can also just upgrade to Splitfires, which are completely plug-in-play. That's my plan.
Which one from Apexi are you getting if I might ask?Boost Controller:
Stay away from manual boost controllers. That's a good way to blow up your engine. As for electronic ones, APEXI is a great brand or you could even go with one of the newer Greddy ones. I've had the Greddy Profec I controller for simplicity and it can't hold boost for s***. I'll be installing my APEXI one soon.
This is sadly what I found as well so far, haven't seen any good complete "kit" with nice routing. I have absolutely no idea how much this would cost to get custom made or how hard/easy it is but I'll look into it.Intercooler:
They're all basically the same, just big wind catchers. The piping is more important. If you can, get custom piping, it will save a lot of headache and blown clamps. There really isn't a great manufacturer for CA18 intercooler piping, so you'll have to do some custom fab.
I'm kind of surprised to read this, I've played with the idea of putting an SR in before I decided to keep the CA and there everyone wrote that the first thing to upgrade would be a stronger radiator with better fans, so this doesn't apply to the CA then?Engine cooling:
300 HP you shouldn't run into any problems. Just get a new water pump and slap her on when you have the engine torn apart.
It's actually pretty cold around here ^^ so good to knowOil Cooler:
Not necessary unless you're in Las Vegas.
Yeah this is giving me a lot of headaches so far. 2k+ that those standalones from Haltec and co. are costing (apart from being uncertain which one exactly would work for my car) is a bit much, but I'll take your suggestion into consideration. Wiring work will be done by someone else, it's the one part of working on a car I hate with a passion, anything electronic ^^Engine Management:
Up for debate for sure. Personally I think Nistune is dated and you'll find less and less people that will be able to tune it. I would go balls to the wall in this category and get a Haltec and build your own harness. Now, I know that might seem daunting, but this area you're basically future proofing and allowing yourself to get a tune from any good shop around your area.
I am currently running a Apexi Power FC from an S14 retrofitted with some harness adjustments.
Yeah I'm leaning towards the ISR Performance MB SE Type -E Dual Tip 3" so far it has a nice stockish look and sounds pretty good. I want a 200cpi sportscat and regarding turbo elbow and downpipe i'm uncertain as I've read that those have to be matched to the turbo you are running, but I'm still reading up on that (it's been a lot of reading these days ^^)Downpipe / Exhaust:
3" all the way. To not piss off everyone, I'd get a resonator in there and a hi-flow cat.
S14 spindles are almost unbearably expensive here and I'd need the lca and the ball joints too which usually don't come with them so I'm leaning towards the ichiba conversion but that's 650$ shipped from the US (thanks to customs and transportation fee of a whopping 250$) and they'd still need new bearings (at least most people say the ichiba bearings suck and should be replaced)Over stuff:
You can save a lot on just minor stuff like J30 brakes, S14 spindles (if you really desire 5 lug), poly bushings, etc. I would recommend not skimping out on your diff and to get a proper diff like a KAAZ 2 way unless you know a good welder.
Currently I'm still taking apart the car so not much to post for a build thread but once I get to the juicier parts I'll start one, or maybe when I've disassembled the engine and I might ask you guys for your opinions on the state of the parts. I'm documenting everything with pictures and videos anyway so it's easier to reassemble afterwardsGood luck with your build and please start a new build thread here. It'll be nice to see someone working on their car for once in here again.
Just be careful about those oil squirters in that you don't break them. Nissan doesn't resell them and you would basically have to buy new used ones from someone on here with a thrashed block.I agree with boring out as little as possible which is why I snatched the 83.5mm I've read that things get complicated above and my thought process was, that since the engines have done a lot of miles it might be good to at least take off some of the material off that has seen all those miles by boring it out a little.
Well the silicone amount was something I have never read anything about before in all the threads i waded through reading the pistons. I've checked and the wiseco pistons have the same grade metal as the CP so they are very similar in regards to silicone amount. How noticeable is this in a real life scenario? My car would be a daily driver so if I have to let it sit for 15 minutes before I can drive it for example than I'd have to sell these pistons and get supertechs as well. I'm used to sitting in the car and letting it idle for 1-2 minutes before i drive off (and then of course drive carefully without WOT until the engine is warmed up) so this in itself wouldn't be a problem (the focus has a pre warming period where it idles higher until the engine is sufficiently lubricated for example) but depending on how much time I have to wait any time I get into the car it could become a problem if it's 5+ minutes until I can drive off (in that case I'd rather invest more money in other pistons)
Thanks for the info about the rods!
The engine will be polished and ported and the shop that does that work will adapt the pistons (if i stick to these) I've read up on this and supposedly they can grind out the place that the squirters need without upsetting the balance of the pistons, it was discouraged to remove the squirters in all the posts I've found so far so I'd rather have them machine the pistons. Bearings and the ARP bolts I'm planing to get but for the bearings I'll have to check the crank first to measure everything if I understood everything correctly about that topic. Baffling the oil plan I'll look into (haven't heard that term yet)
Yeah, I think the way to go is probably just using the R8s. Can't really go wrong with that.Actually the reason why I asked about the R8s instead of the Splitfires is because I can get an adapter loom for the R8s (160ish €) and the 4x coils (120€) for less than the Splitfires would cost me (450€) and I read somewhere that since these are smartcoils they are supposedly better and eliminate the ignition module and are better for tuning. (still reading up on this though)
Apexi AVC-RWhich one from Apexi are you getting if I might ask?
Noobs end up eliminating the fan shroud and mechanical fan for an electric fan setup to look cleaner. Then they have to get a bigger radiator because the CFMs aren't as good as the stock setup. There's absolutely no need to upgrade the radiator at these HP numbers.I'm kind of surprised to read this, I've played with the idea of putting an SR in before I decided to keep the CA and there everyone wrote that the first thing to upgrade would be a stronger radiator with better fans, so this doesn't apply to the CA then?
I have that ISR exhaust on mine currently since it doesn't get much unwanted attention. The fitment was pretty low for me, especially with the second muffler which sits near the diff area, as it's now the lowest point on my car. I'd recommend deleting that second muffler and putting a resonator or just replacing it with a pipe. The exhaust itself is decently quiet and the extra ground clearance would be nice without that huge second muffler.Yeah I'm leaning towards the ISR Performance MB SE Type -E Dual Tip 3" so far it has a nice stockish look and sounds pretty good. I want a 200cpi sportscat and regarding turbo elbow and downpipe i'm uncertain as I've read that those have to be matched to the turbo you are running, but I'm still reading up on that (it's been a lot of reading these days ^^)
According to the people that have dealt with it the oil squirters should be an easy fix but we'll see, I'll be sure to tell you the updates. With coronavirus the plans have slowed a bit as my car is in the neighboring country and I can't get to it due to travel bans. So it's back to collecting parts atm.Izento wrote: ↑Sat Mar 07, 2020 9:19 pmJust be careful about those oil squirters in that you don't break them. Nissan doesn't resell them and you would basically have to buy new used ones from someone on here with a thrashed block.
As for the piston slap, I'm not sure if it's a myth or not, but that's a big reason why I didn't go CP or Weisco. I'm sure someone older and more knowledgeable will chime in on this topic.
Also, consider getting the rod bearing journals chamfered. This allows for more oil to flow onto the rod bearings. Your engine builder should know what this is when you bring the crank in for polishing.
I'll have a look into the options here. I've read up on it and this actually seems relatively simple, I always thought the ECU controls the boost and that the electronic boost controllers feed information to it but that does not seem to be the case although I guess some standalon ECUs can manage the boost control too somehow.Apexi AVC-R
That's good, some money saved I guess.Noobs end up eliminating the fan shroud and mechanical fan for an electric fan setup to look cleaner. Then they have to get a bigger radiator because the CFMs aren't as good as the stock setup. There's absolutely no need to upgrade the radiator at these HP numbers.
Ayyy not too happy about the fitment as ground clearance is one of the issues I see in my future. I'm also trying to find the coils with the least drop possible so I can play around with the settings while making sure that I'm still able to drive into my (quite steep) garage and while being able to drive over the endless speedbumps in my city. The thing is, that exhaust has big import fees again so it costs more than twice as much as a standard non name aftermarket exhaust I could get around here and I feel like if I have to work a lot and cut out /replace parts of it than I'm not sure if it's worth the investment, might as well just use a cheap one in that case. Do you have any pictures of how it is mounted, how it hangs? do you think it would be possible to modify the hangers maybe to get it closer to the body?I have that ISR exhaust on mine currently since it doesn't get much unwanted attention. The fitment was pretty low for me, especially with the second muffler which sits near the diff area, as it's now the lowest point on my car. I'd recommend deleting that second muffler and putting a resonator or just replacing it with a pipe. The exhaust itself is decently quiet and the extra ground clearance would be nice without that huge second muffler.