Question/insight about removing rear axles

[grimple1]

The FSM says that in order to remove the rear axle the following steps must be done:

1) Remove wheel bearing lock nut2) Separate drive shaft from axle housing by lightly tapping it.3) Remove brake caliper assembly and rotor (Suspend)4) Remove axle housing5) Remove wheel bearing with flange and wheel hub from axle housing.

I’m going to be doing this on the upcoming Thanksgiving weekend and wanted to know if this looked ok or if anyone had any tips not mentioned in the above – I’ve never done this on a 240. The rear differential will be removed before the axles are removed.

(I’m installing the NISMO 4.36 Rear Diff. with the 5-bolt axles)

Also, does anyone know the size of the wheel lock nut?

Thanks,grimple1

[naed240sx]

I dont know WTF the fsm is talking about. I recently did a diff swap for the 4.4 vlsd, and replaced my axels, same as you. The axle nuts are a ***** to get off. you will need a big socket(25 or 26 mm i think), and a really big breaker bar or impact wrench. If you are not using the impact wrench, make sure you tires are on the ground when you try loosening them. A cotter pin and cover will have to be removed from around the nut as well, but needle noses will do the trick. Take you diff out, then the axels will simply slide out of their places. Use a ****load of wd40 on the inside of the spindle, and all over your new axels, and line up the splines and push untill you have enough thread for the axel nut to grip. If you have coilovers, you may have to disconnect the lower mount in order for the cv boot to clear. Good luck and enjoy your lsd.

ohh, and btw, make sure you have the larger nuts and bolts that are used with the 5-bolt axels.

Edit: I forgot to tell ya, but one of the axels is longer than the other. Make sure you put them in the right places.

[grimple1]

Good to know about the axel lengths. So really I just remove the dust cover (for a lack of a better word), the cotter pin and the axle nut and then it should slide out.

So no messing with the caliper or axle housing?

I just did a bolt/nut check. Everything is there. Thanks again!

[naed240sx]

Good to know about the axel lengths. So really I just remove the dust cover (for a lack of a better word), the cotter pin and the axle nut and then it should slide out.

So no messing with the caliper or axle housing?

I just did a bolt/nut check. Everything is there. Thanks again!

no, its really that simple. It is just a ***** getting the new ones in, because they will not want to slide far enough, and you cant hammer on the end, because it is a compressible cv joint. WD40 is your best friend

[grimple1]

Gotcha.

So how do you like the 4.4?

[ceniack]

wheel lock nut on an s13 = 36mm

[naed240sx]

Gotcha.

So how do you like the 4.4?

I like it, but looking back it seems like it would have been a better Idea to just run some lower profile tires. That way I could reduce rotating mass, and create shorter gearing. that would be ugly but whatever. I don't do a lot of highway driving, which is good, because the car runs at really high rpms at speed, and if my calculations are right, I believe it bumps my top speed down to around 105. But for acceleration, it can't be beat. My car feels alot quicker, and gets to its optimum power levels much quicker off the line. First gear is super fun.

[grimple1]

wheel lock nut on an s13 = 36mm

Cool. I've got that one with a huge arse breaker bar.

I'm reallying looking forward the reduced wheel hop. I bought the Splparts.com aluminum diff. bushings. --- which I might add are very well made. I continue to be impressed with that company and their suspension components.

[Hijacker]

curious, why are you removing the axles if all you're doing is a diff swap?

most diff swaps, all you need to do is disconnect the output shaft flange, tuck the axle up above the diff unit, and then get the diff out. Unless you're changing axles to match a different output shaft flange, i don't see much need to pull the axles.

[naed240sx]

curious, why are you removing the axles if all you're doing is a diff swap?

most diff swaps, all you need to do is disconnect the output shaft flange, tuck the axle up above the diff unit, and then get the diff out. Unless you're changing axles to match a different output shaft flange, i don't see much need to pull the axles.

No offence, but did you read the post? He has an imported one with the 5-bolt flanges. No body would be replacing axels just for the hell of it.

[Deadrodent]

I'm actually doing the same swap this weekend. No one answered my previous post but this was basically my concern (removing the axles)

so at what rpm are you at @70mph or even @80mph?

btw what axle nuts are you talking about? are you talking about the "castle" nut or whatever that has a cotter pin staked through it?
Modified by Deadrodent at 2:35 PM 11/4/2005

[naed240sx]

I'm actually doing the same swap this weekend. No one answered my previous post but this was basically my concern (removing the axles)

so at what rpm are you at @70mph or even @80mph?

btw what axle nuts are you talking about? are you talking about the "castle" nut or whatever that has a cotter pin staked through it?

Modified by Deadrodent at 2:35 PM 11/4/2005

Well since putting in the diff causes your speedo to be off, it is pretty hard to tell. Mathmatically you ought to be able to figure it out, but my head hurts right now. It is not a huge difference.

[grimple1]

Yeah those nuts. They've got the pin stuck through 'em. There's also the bolts and nuts that connect the axles to the diff (5 on each side).

I hope you'll post how it went this weekend! I might try to install my s13 cams if the weather holds out.

[SmithSR]

When trying to free the axle from the hub:

Be careful to never hit the end of the axle shaft bare.

Thread the nut onto the shaft, then place an object(block, metal, something to evenly distribute the shock) at the end of the nut and then strike that.

The center of the shaft should have a slight bore to the tip. If you have a punch or air hammer you can carefully use it to free the axle from the hub.

[Deadrodent]

Does anyone know what size cotter pin i need and what size socket for the axle/castle nut? you guys said either a 25, 26 or a 36 haha...kinda a big difference...i'm doing this swap tomorrow morning so i'll tell you guys what happens

btw what nut are talking about threading/tapping on the axle shaft sr_smith?
Modified by Deadrodent at 1:17 AM 11/5/2005

[naed240sx]

he is saying make sure that you do not f up the end of the axle when you are hammering hit out. I just hammered mine carefully with no nut or anything, and they were unharmed, but if you want to be more precautious listen to him.

[grimple1]

dang it. I was gonna take a freakin' sledge hammer to mine.

joking

[Deadrodent]

gahhh, ran into some problems. the axle flange bolts are extremely hard to get off. I snapped a craftsman ratchet in half trying to get one off...let's hope the same thing doesn't happen today...

*Edit* Finally got the diff in. man the car's response is crazy now. but i'm losing a crapload of power because we had to remove my exhaust to get the diff off and broke the exhaust flange gasket...and it's a sunday night and relatively late so i had to test drive it running basically a straight pipe. i can feel my car wants to go a lot faster but the exhaust is definitely hampering my power...mmm response....
Modified by Deadrodent at 1:51 AM 11/7/2005

[grimple1]

So what was the final size on the axle nuts? 36mm?

That's good to hear about responsiveness.

[naed240sx]

y

So what was the final size on the axle nuts? 36mm?

That's good to hear about responsiveness.

yes

[Deadrodent]

holy crap. this rear end is ****ing nuts. BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE RAIN. Baby-throttling it gets me sideways and it's full on ice-skate style drifting...not "damn, i almost lost control"...it's "HOLY CRAP WE'RE SIDEWAYS BUT STILL GOING STRAIGHT!!!"

I think I'm in love.

[naed240sx]

Hey find a place with gravel patches on cement, and place your car so that one wheel is in the gravel, and the other on good grippy cement or whatever. Drop the clutch and make sure that thing is locking perfect. It shouldnt make it any harder to drive in the rain. Mine is actually more confidence inpiring, but yeah you will get very sideways quickly if you stay on throttle.

[Deadrodent]

oh it's definitely a confidence builder. i can take turns 10mph faster on-throttle. you just have to predict when the rear end locks up

[naed240sx]

oh it's definitely a confidence builder. i can take turns 10mph faster on-throttle. you just have to predict when the rear end locks up

I think you are feeling too much of a butt dyno. It should not really help you to take turns faster, because it will not lock up untill one wheel begins to slip. Once you start to loose rear grip, you cannot really accelerate any more.

[Deadrodent]

I think you are feeling too much of a butt dyno. It should not really help you to take turns faster, because it will not lock up untill one wheel begins to slip. Once you start to loose rear grip, you cannot really accelerate any more.

I'm definitely not "just feeling a butt dyno". freeway on-ramps (the twisty circular ones) i used to take at about 40-45 mph. Now i'm taking them at 55mph easily...my rear end is definitely locking up and helping me control the car...that's the whole point...with 2 wheels powering out of the turn you can power out of the turn a lot faster while still in control. with the open diff it's like gamb|ing...you have to have a touchy foot and a lot of balls...

[naed240sx]

I'm definitely not "just feeling a butt dyno". freeway on-ramps (the twisty circular ones) i used to take at about 40-45 mph. Now i'm taking them at 55mph easily...my rear end is definitely locking up and helping me control the car...that's the whole point...with 2 wheels powering out of the turn you can power out of the turn a lot faster while still in control. with the open diff it's like gamb|ing...you have to have a touchy foot and a lot of balls...

2 wheels will be powering you out of the turn no matter what, unless one starts o slip, In which case it will take a moment for power to get to the non-slipping wheel.

[Deadrodent]

indeed. now all i need is my exhaust on now haha...straight cat sucks major power...

[grimple1]

Well I got it in. Took about 1 1/2 hours using a neighboring garage's lift. (Say what you want about the South, people are just nicer about those sort of things -- he didn't even charge me to use it and his impact wrenches).

Essentially the removal is very simple and is as follows (in this order)1. 4 (or 5 I can't remember) bolts on the Drive Shaft2. 6 bolts on the Axle/Diff section3. Remove the rubber hose at the top of the diff.4. 5 nuts on the Diff.... the area with the ground wire has 2 nuts.and the thing falls right out.

5. Another 2 Axle nuts and it's all out.

I used no specialty tools, just metric sockets and wrenches. Impact wrenches were used but this job could've easily been done w/o 'em. Just get a breaker bar.

The install is just the reverse of this procedure. Best to have something to hold/remove the diff as they're heavy. (We used an engine hoist with a platform that was welded to the top of it... a floor jack will do if you're w/o a lift)

The car feels much better with the VLSD. I can't imagine why 240s didn't just come stock with 'em (ALL of them). The car doesn't do this weird flexing anymore when going over uneven road. To put it bluntly, the open diff was kinda dangerous and worried me should my wife ever drive the car.

I put in two of the SPL solid Diff bushings, also. Two of the bushings are pressed in.... so do whatever is necessary. You can play it safe and just leave those two bushings in or you can try and press/hammer them out. I just left 'em in as it would've complicated the whole process AND the current bushings were still in very good shape. I imagine the difference between full solid diff bushings and 1/2 solid diff bushings is un-noticeable. I was suprised to hear no difference in road noise.

Very easy job and well worth the money. the 4.4 concerned me at first, but the rpms are tolerable. I'm at 3 grand at 80mph. It still won't burn any tires, but that'll have to wait for the KA-T.

[Badfish]

Ahh, that reminds me I should probably order my bushings kit as well before I put my 4.36 vlsd and axles in. Had the thing for a while now, but the holidays are too damn busy. Probably going to wait till after the first of the year.

Thanks for following up on your installs guys, I was curious as to what most of your impressions would be. Im already running an SR, but Im just going to deal with the higher RPM's.

One question though, why does everyone refer to this as "Nismo" gearing? It came stock in HCR32 Skylines and CA18DET silvias/180sxs.

[naed240sx]

With an sr, I wouldn't use anything higher than 4.1 gearing. It will make your car quicker(assuming you are making close to stock power levels), but it sucks on the highways. I hope you have a quite exhaust, or else trips will suck. I have a 4.4 in my car, and love how responsive the car is with it, but I never want to go much faster than 70 or 80 on trips, because my car gets really loud over 3k rpms. People refer to the gearing as nismo gearing, because the ring gear sold by nismo as an upgrade by nissan is a 4.4. Just because it is stock in some cars doesn't mean it cant be an aftermarket part for another. For example, the nismo brake setup for the s13 uses j30 brakes.