Hi, i have hurd that you can do wonders w/ an engine. now i have a 93 240SX SE, with a ka24de. now as far as testing i havent dont any yet, compression, oil leak down. Tho i know it does leak oil from the 4th cylander valve cover seal. it has a 150k on it. it was driven by an 63 yr old guy, who keept it dealer maintaned, oil changes too (at 3000 tho). so id like the engine into new condition. what concerns me is its top end. the low end sounds healthy and deep. but the top end is less stable(for lack of better termonalgy) it will rev high (4.5k and up) but its as if it doesnt want to. theres more of a shake feel to it like it wouldnt rev that high if u wernt making it. its not smooth. thats a better way to put it morte like a unballanced washer. (not exactly but u get the point).
so i basicaly just want to get rid of this. and restor it to a smooth ballanced high end. any and all help is always appricated. -- MoNK
Question for Q45tech
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theNUDdistBUDDhist
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theNUDdistBUDDhist
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theNUDdistBUDDhist
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So what kinda damages are we talkin, cyliander bore, a full valve job, i would amagin the crank and rods would be fine it most just a little mechining, so i figuerthe top of the block.
im going to do some tests when i get a chance.
Besides i would see the transmission going way before the engine.
But what do you think would becausing top end roughness in the engine?
im going to do some tests when i get a chance.
Besides i would see the transmission going way before the engine.
But what do you think would becausing top end roughness in the engine?
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
On most engine the crank end of rod bearings wear first, unfortunately this doesn't show up on oil pressure like the main crankshaft bearing do.
You always test the hot idle oil pressure first with brand new 10w/30 and a new filter as the oil pressure increases with used oil.If the oil pressure exceeds 14-15 psi really hot after running in Summer for 30 minutes then an instant reading at idle, you proceed to measuring compression and leak down.
It's all an educated guess without disassembly and measuring everything.......rod angularity
Most of the 2.4 I see are at deaths door around 150-200k because they were not treated well from day one but then again the warranty was only 36k.
Big 4 cyclinder without balance shafts are always rougher at high rpm. And 2.4 is considered big. Even the new 2.5 with a balance shaft is not perfect.
You always test the hot idle oil pressure first with brand new 10w/30 and a new filter as the oil pressure increases with used oil.If the oil pressure exceeds 14-15 psi really hot after running in Summer for 30 minutes then an instant reading at idle, you proceed to measuring compression and leak down.
It's all an educated guess without disassembly and measuring everything.......rod angularity
Most of the 2.4 I see are at deaths door around 150-200k because they were not treated well from day one but then again the warranty was only 36k.
Big 4 cyclinder without balance shafts are always rougher at high rpm. And 2.4 is considered big. Even the new 2.5 with a balance shaft is not perfect.
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theNUDdistBUDDhist
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Great thank you again.
"If the oil pressure exceeds 14-15 psi really hot after running in Summer for 30 minutes then an instant reading at idle, you proceed to measuring compression and leak down." what do you mean "than an instant reading at idle" are you comparing 2 oil preesure readingas 1 after 30 min in a hot day than 1 at idle?
"It's all an educated guess without disassembly and measuring everything.......rod angularity" -- thats exactly what i was looking for ty.
so i what else would be tipical to need to replace to get it back to new. the reasion i ask is cuz i will eventualy need to open the block, RODS AND PISTIONS were on my list to do. What else would improve it the most. (from a 150mile standpoint. rods and a crank )OE( are a combined 1725 the hole engine is 3-3.5k. thx again -- MoNK
"If the oil pressure exceeds 14-15 psi really hot after running in Summer for 30 minutes then an instant reading at idle, you proceed to measuring compression and leak down." what do you mean "than an instant reading at idle" are you comparing 2 oil preesure readingas 1 after 30 min in a hot day than 1 at idle?
"It's all an educated guess without disassembly and measuring everything.......rod angularity" -- thats exactly what i was looking for ty.
so i what else would be tipical to need to replace to get it back to new. the reasion i ask is cuz i will eventualy need to open the block, RODS AND PISTIONS were on my list to do. What else would improve it the most. (from a 150mile standpoint. rods and a crank )OE( are a combined 1725 the hole engine is 3-3.5k. thx again -- MoNK