How much does it cost for the driveshaft to do the Rb25DET swap in S13? Thanks night

I've been told $400.

93RPS13 wrote:How much does it cost for the driveshaft to do the Rb25DET swap in S13? Thanks night

last time i checked, all it is is your stock driveshaft with a z32 tranny yoke on it where it attaches to the tranny. that shouldnt cost to much to have your stock one modified, finding the z32 one might cost a bit though.

Maybe it is just me.... but StephNic has a good point... it is not that expensive.

What you need to do:MEASURE the END of the Transmission to the diff flange with the stock set up. Write this down.

Once the RB engine is installed, and in position desired, repeat the measurement from the end of the transmission to the diff flange.

Make a sketch of both measurements with OLD AND NEW label. Make a note "diff does not move, IRS" on the paper. Take the sketch, with the original driveline, and new tranny flange to a driveline shop. Most of the shops around here will charge about $125 to retube and ballance to front tube.

Not sure where to go... ask around about friends who have 4x4 vehicles and swap motors. Driveline modification is very common (for slow moving off road vehicles I've done my own driveline from DOM tubing.... vibration is not an issue with a 30 mph speed.... for the 240SX let a driveline shop do it and ballance the assembly.

Tom

roundrocktom wrote:Maybe it is just me.... but StephNic has a good point... it is not that expensive.

What you need to do:MEASURE the END of the Transmission to the diff flange with the stock set up. Write this down.

Once the RB engine is installed, and in position desired, repeat the measurement from the end of the transmission to the diff flange.

Make a sketch of both measurements with OLD AND NEW label. Make a note "diff does not move, IRS" on the paper. Take the sketch, with the original driveline, and new tranny flange to a driveline shop. Most of the shops around here will charge about $125 to retube and ballance to front tube.

Not sure where to go... ask around about friends who have 4x4 vehicles and swap motors. Driveline modification is very common (for slow moving off road vehicles I've done my own driveline from DOM tubing.... vibration is not an issue with a 30 mph speed.... for the 240SX let a driveline shop do it and ballance the assembly.

Tom

we've got a good guy here.

I think with the RB25 swap though you need to shorten your driveshaft. Is that $125 amount including having the drive shaft shortend? Can you even do that? But if you go with a new custom driveshaft it should be much stronger than the stock one.

chachi longshot wrote:I think with the RB25 swap though you need to shorten your driveshaft. Is that $125 amount including having the drive shaft shortend? Can you even do that? But if you go with a new custom driveshaft it should be much stronger than the stock one.

having it shortened shouldnt cost any more. either way they have to cut it somewhere and weld the new one there. where they cut it doesnt make a difference. if they cut it to short and they ahve to add to it, thats a different story. as far as getting a stronger one, i would worry about that when the time comes, im sure the stock one will hold quite a large amount of power.

NightXCZ77 wrote:A driveline shop would have to cut and weld or take the tip and replace it. I had it done with my first driveshaft (half RB, half KA). The 300ZX yolk is what you use if doing the yolk conversion which isn't recommended. It's a short fix, but I recommend getting a custom one built for the swap...it will be stronger and last longer. It's really your choice here.

Night

why dont you recommend it? peoples stock ones have lasted to over 400hp. whats wrong with it? most driveshafts dont start showing problems to 600hp atleast.

StephNic wrote:why dont you recommend it? peoples stock ones have lasted to over 400hp. whats wrong with it? most driveshafts dont start showing problems to 600hp atleast.

Choices:

Stock daily driver. Good all around car, occasional autocross... a RB/KA driveshaft is fine (& cheaper).

Looking for 600+ hp? Best quarter mile times? Don't want to see a driveline scatter at the race track.... have a custom with beefy U-joints put in! Note: one piece driveline, stock is two piece.

For ME I'm looking at a stealth commute vehicle. Mild modification, skyline brakes, 90% of the time for getting to work and quick Houston runs. The "stock driveshaft with RB flange" is fine.

For a customer: If the guy is talking about wanting best 1/4 mile times... custom bulletproof driveline. If they start asking about what type of gas mileage... cheaper driveline.

Tom

P.S. For those of you drag racing a ... do you have a SCATTER SHIELD? Driveline hoop?

NightXCZ77 wrote:A driveline shop would have to cut and weld or take the tip and replace it. I had it done with my first driveshaft (half RB, half KA). The 300ZX yolk is what you use if doing the yolk conversion which isn't recommended. It's a short fix, but I recommend getting a custom one built for the swap...it will be stronger and last longer. It's really your choice here.

Night

I'm leaning more and more towards getting a RB25 everyday...Night::..: what's the estimated price on custom building a drive shaft???

Bobby_Wu wrote:I'm leaning more and more towards getting a RB25 everyday...Night::..: what's the estimated price on custom building a drive shaft???

night doesnt custom anything. he takes a stock driveshaft and has it cut and has the right yoke put on it. if you want something custom, like CF, do a search on google for cf driveshafts, Night doesnt have the resources to have something like that made.

Sorry doods.... I just ordered my RB25, LSD, fuel pump and downpiple last night from NIGHT. He doesn't have any custom shafts on hand and isn't having any more made for a while. He is however going to throw in the R33 driveline for free and gimme the specs I need to have a shop shorten it. I'm sure if night could have it made for around 400.. any of us could have a local shop make one for a bout the same given Night's specs. So no biggy

and Stephnic... I think you should ask Night before you start saying what he DOESN'T do... he is using a single tube driveshaft that a shop makes for him... so... me thinks your wrong...

Bryson wrote:and Stephnic... I think you should ask Night before you start saying what he DOESN'T do... he is using a single tube driveshaft that a shop makes for him... so... me thinks your wrong...

ive spoken with night over the phone multiple times, he told me it was a modified stock shaft. not sure why he's telling me different then what he's telling you. his site also says its modified stock. 400 is a rip off for aluminum or modified stock. PST (a WELL known company for driveshafts) sells chromolly ones (these are balanced for smooth ride and are made to NHRA rules specs) made custom for 275-325 and aluminum ones for 199-325. if you want to go all out, you can have them make a carbon fiber one for 500-900. either way, it isnt worth purchasing a driveshaft for 400 if it isnt ATLEAST chromoly (in which case its still a bad deal). when ya send **** off to PST you can also have them cryogenically treat it too, maybe have your tranny treated, then it will support whatever you throw at it. Night is paying way more than he should, if he's telling the truth, and doesnt make money off of people. for those that want to be smart and buy from an actual company (im not bashing Night, but this company is a real company, their own free standing building, years of race experience, etc) go ahead and check out http://www.pstds.com

thanks guys...i don't think i'll be running 600+hp but it would be nice...my car will also be for daily use...Mckinney has a custom driveshaft but they don't have too much information on it...

Ok StephNic... sorry if I am wrong... anyways I saved that place as a favorite so I'll look into them.. thanks for the link. Nice sight BTW too

Bryson wrote:Ok StephNic... sorry if I am wrong... anyways I saved that place as a favorite so I'll look into them.. thanks for the link. Nice sight BTW too

thank you. i have 2 friends using their products, both are 110% satisfied.

StephNic wrote:thank you. i have 2 friends using their products, both are 110% satisfied.

Well then their bad at math, cause the most anyone can be satisfied is 100%, unless maybe they have multiple personalities .

chachi longshot wrote:Well then their bad at math, cause the most anyone can be satisfied is 100%, unless maybe they have multiple personalities .

oh shoot, my mistake!

NightXCZ77 wrote:Actually, I have CUSTOM driveshafts built by a professional driveshaft shop. They actually make a 3" double thick walled, lightened single tube driveshaft.

The reasons for getting a custom one are as follows:

1) They have replaceable U-Joints 2) They are stronger and last longer than stock3) They have less hp loss through your drivetrain because there is no intermediate carrier bearing.

I orignally had a modified stock driveshaft of which I used for about 4 days while waiting for my custom one to be finished. All shops near me wanted atleast $450 to get them made, this guy only charged me $392.30 I say I don't make anything on the shafts because I have to drive 45 minutes over and back about 35 miles each way which takes up quite a bit of my time and uses about 4 gallons of gas in my 90 SOHC 240....so about $7 in gas.

Night

thats not what you told me, i noticed you also corrected your site. might want to fix the part where it says "exhuasts", looks really unprofessional. either way, 400 for the crappy driveshaft your speaking of, is NOT worth it. first off, no one will be breaking anything on their driveshaft til atleast 600hp (and 600hp in our cars is 10s, Jay has 500hp and runs 11s). telling people they'll need it is misleading, no one with a stock turbo will ever need that, and 95% of people with RB swaps here in the states, don't have single turbo upgrades. and pstds.com makes theirs to nhra specs, most people wanting to run 10s (in which case they need an aftermarket one) or better will want to participate in nhra competitions most likely. these driveshafts come with cryogenically treated components, so they will NOT twist for anything under 1500whp with sticky tires and non-slippable clutch.

Thanks for all the replies

93RPS13 wrote:Thanks for all the replies

your welcome, dont forget to hceck out that site i put the link to, they have AWESOME products, and a warranty!!!

yea i knew about it a long time ago............but forgot the site LOL:D

i have an extra drive shaft......and will let it go cheap if someone needs it.....i'll have to take a look at it

StephNic

I'm not sure where you get you driveshafts made, your price are low. here in SOCAL you can not get a QUALIY shaft for those prices even at wholesale. And a certified NHRA shaft would not even be close....

FAST-DATSUN wrote:StephNic

I'm not sure where you get you driveshafts made, your price are low. here in SOCAL you can not get a QUALIY shaft for those prices even at wholesale. And a certified NHRA shaft would not even be close....

sorry if you dont understand cheif, these arent MY prices. these are public listed prices, and they are NHRA legal and this company has an awesome rep. go to their site and look at their prices if you dont beleive me. do a search on google for info on them if youd like.

Ok I will call them...

thats damn cheap for what they offer, I book marked the site.

Cattalbus wrote:thats damn cheap for what they offer, I book marked the site.

they can offer prices like that because of how long theyve been around. basically, all their equipment has probably been paid off because theyve been around for a good amount of time, and real popular in the domestic/purist drag community.