I think we have aluminum wiring. We are going to be fixing up the house. Isn't alu wiring common for house fires?

Should we even consider rewiring the house? I have know Idea how its done but just wondering what people have to say.

What kind of wiring is the best?

A few things you may want to know about aluminum wiring.(I'm a semi-retired contractor/handyman, so I have a fair bit of experience.)Aluminum wiring was used for about a five year period in the early 70's.Mostly due to cost. It was cheaper than copper at the time.Aluminum (AL) wire is always one gauge larger than copper.Standard copper wiring is 14 gauge, while AL is 12.The reason for that is AL does not conduct electricity as well as copper, so it has to be bigger.The other thing is that AL is softer than copper, and thus more difficult to work with. It breaks easier.If AL wiring is installed properly, then it is not a fire hazard. The key word here being PROPERLY. Most new installs were done properly by the original builders.The big issue with this stuff today is the DIY homeowner who thought he knew what he was doing, and started to modify and change his house wiring. This is usually where the problems start.For starters, you HAVE to have special outlets, plugs and connectors designed for AL wiring. If you look at the labels on plugs and outlets (say at Home Depot), it will tell you whether you can use it with AL wiring. If it says for CU only, then don't use it. 99% of DIY people just ignore it, and use them anyway. Big mistake. That's a fire waiting to happen.The other main issue I see all the time is mixing the two together.The DIY home owner will add copper wiring to his house, and splice it in with the existing AL. You have to use specific marettes designed for this purpose. Again, read the label or the packaging to see if they are compatible with AL. AL and copper don't like each other, and if not connected properly, will also be a fire hazard.The last thing to be aware of is loose connections.AL wiring had a tendency to come loose at the plugs and outlets and stuff.This is mostly due to it's soft composition, combined with daily use and vibrations.If you buy a house with aluminum wiring, I would highly recommend that you check every plug and switch and make sure the screws are tight and the wire is secure.To answer your last questions, copper is standard now, and obviously the easiest and cheapest. There is really nothing else.I don't believe you need to rewire your house either.Just follow the safety precautions mentioned above, and you should be OK.Good luck.

Wow I think I may have to really examine all outlets, thanks for the tips and explanations.

My parents have it... house was built in 1971. Fortunately we were aware of it and used the proper outlets and switches... and used Nolox (I think that's what it's called) when joining copper to it. Even so, it makes me a bit nervous.

Heath

from the sound of it, you did the right thing.You should be OK.

Nolox is used only for the expanding of AL, it prevents it. or helps at least. sorry i didnt get in here sooner breadbox. What have you done so far?still need any help?

Additionally, I have tested all three sets of cable, (Black, White & ground each) with a neon power tester and have defined the “power” cable. I have also tested all three sets of cable with an OHM Meter and only get a reading (w/ breaker OFF) on ONE set which is the “switch” leg set. That leaves the receptacle set of cables. All grounds are pigtailed together.

I have connected the power set with the receptacle set of cables as step one. I've attached the white “switch” cable to the black of the “power” cable. I have attached the black from the “switch” cable to the black wire from the light fixture. I have attached the white from the light fixture to the white “power” cable.

Everything works except the switch DOESN'T turn off the light.

Tommy Bahama Comforter

Harleyilo wrote:Additionally, I have tested all three sets of cable, (Black, White & ground each) with a neon power tester and have defined the “power” cable. I have also tested all three sets of cable with an OHM Meter and only get a reading (w/ breaker OFF) on ONE set which is the “switch” leg set. That leaves the receptacle set of cables. All grounds are pigtailed together.

I have connected the power set with the receptacle set of cables as step one. I've attached the white “switch” cable to the black of the “power” cable. I have attached the black from the “switch” cable to the black wire from the light fixture. I have attached the white from the light fixture to the white “power” cable.

Everything works except the switch DOESN'T turn off the light.

Buzzman wrote:

Cut and paste and insert a link for a comforter? Must be the latest spam scam.



Heath

Ghostdrifter88 wrote:Nolox is used only for the expanding of AL, it prevents it. or helps at least. sorry i didnt get in here sooner breadbox. What have you done so far?still need any help?

Not much still wondering what I am looking for when buying lights to hang up. I noticed I probably need a new fan up stairs, one low it hums really loud like you can hear it limiting the power to use. on full it is quiet, I am wondering if that has anything to do with the AL wiring being larger.

Also really pissed, yesterday had some HVAC guys out and they installed a new motor in my ac unit. The fan blade is so off balance the entire unit is way loud and shaky. I am so glad we paid $761 for a new motor that doesn't do its job.

They came back out twice and now I'm good.
Modified by breadbox at 1:27 PM 7/7/2009

Hello Mr Buzzman

I've got a question for ya!

Is it possible to replace the bimetal thermostat on an attic fan with a digital thermostat like the one that presently controls my heating and air conditioning?

The digital thermostats are powered and controlled thru a 110v/24v AC transformer with Red, Yellow, White and green wires to turn on the fan, heat and AC with a Hot and common wire.

Can I use such a thermostat located in an upstairs bedroom below the attic to control my attic fan in the roof?

It is a pain to go up to the attic to adjust the thermostat. I'm getting too old for that s#it

Telcoman

telcoman wrote:Can I use such a thermostat located in an upstairs bedroom below the attic to control my attic fan in the roof?

I know I'm not the person you're asking... but how would you be able to get a temperature reading in the attic with the thermostat in the house? The only solution I can think of is some of the newer Honeywell units that give you the option of a remote thermometer. They're designed for zoned applications or homes where you're concerned about keeping the temperature more constant in a room that's away from the thermostat.

The other concern would be the temperature range of an indoor thermostat. I don't know if you'll find one designed to come on at as high of a set point as you might want for attic use.

Check out the "Ranco Adjustable Digital Thermostat" at the bottom of this page... http://www.littlegreenhouse.co...shtml

It's pricy, but It appears that it will do what you need for it to do, assuming your attic fan pulls less than 15A.

Heath
Modified by Q451990 at 1:31 PM 8/22/2009

Q451990 wrote:
I know I'm not the person you're asking... but how would you be able to get a temperature reading in the attic with the thermostat in the house? The only solution I can think of is some of the newer Honeywell units that give you the option of a remote thermometer. They're designed for zoned applications or homes where you're concerned about keeping the temperature more constant in a room that's away from the thermostat.

The other concern would be the temperature range of an indoor thermostat. I don't know if you'll find one designed to come on at as high of a set point as you might want for attic use.

Check out the "Ranco Adjustable Digital Thermostat" at the bottom of this page... http://www.littlegreenhouse.co...shtml

It's pricy, but It appears that it will do what you need for it to do, assuming your attic fan pulls less than 15A.

Heath

Modified by Q451990 at 1:31 PM 8/22/2009

Thanks but I think I am stuck using the standard bimatalic ones like I have now

Although it was 70* outside the other morning at 3 AM the attic fan was still going. i crawled up to the attic at 3 AMAs soon as i just barely touched the thermostat with a small screwdiver it went off. Its been working fine since so I'm not going to replace it just yet but I suppose if I have to I'll just get another one.

I don't think it is easily feasable because I want it to turn on at 90 to 95* and off at around 75 to 80