Question about swap.....Long

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

I am getting stuff together for the swap into my S13. I am going to use the stock R33 crossmember/mount methiod. With the clearance issue of the O2 sensor housing does anyone know or have a picture of where to piece needs to be grinded? I am going to get a new one made I plan on making it so it will clear the steering shaft by denting it. I am getting flanges laser cut. I plan on using a seperate pipe for the wastegate and have it join back into the exhaust at the DP flange. For those who have done the swap what heat shields still fit once the engine is placed in the S13?As for the AC...I am thinking of using the R33 condensor, compressor and dryer for they are located on the drivers side (Of our cars) and having lines made to go over to the evaporator. I will know a bit more when I get the engine mounted up in my car.

I know I will have a ton of more questions soon.

Post by **NISMO_RB25** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

I know I have beat this to death, and you have probably read all the different ways people have done the instal, but here it goes anyway.Why not just use a mount kit? It was easy when I used Mckinney mounts and my downpipe does clear the stearing shaft. I still need to have it shortened a little, but at least it is driveable. I know it's 650 bucks but I still think it was well worth it. I am by far not a mechanic and this was the first time I have ever done anything like this. by myself I did the motor part of the swap in two days. one day to pull the 240 motor and one day to drop in the RB.just my 2 cents.

No matter what you choose, good luck with your swap. It is an awsome ride when you are finished. I have a 2nd gen RX-7 TII that runs 10lbs of boost, and my 240 with the RB25DET will smoke it with the out any mods.

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

I can't afford the extra 650 for the mount kit.

Post by **Joe** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

i know on some s13's even with the stock skyline xmember and mounts the DP will clear fine.

and the mckinney mounts are very very expensive. so its not an option for some people.

Post by **NISMO_RB25** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

I understand. including the car I am approaching the 9k mark on home much it cost me so far. worth every penny.

Have fun with your install. don't be a dumb*** like me and forget to take pictures during the install.

Post by **JonPowell** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Undergorund-motorsports.com sells mounts for $500 I believe...

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

I got my clip (In good running order) and fuel pump/DP is on the way. The other items I need are cooling fans, timing belt and a tensioner pulley. I also need a driveshaft. I have an extra couple 100 for itmes that I may need (replacement parts) but other then that I can't put much more money into the project (Getting Married in OCT)

Post by **NISMO_RB25** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

come on you got 10 months, the second you start the car you will start thinking new exhaust, more boost, rims, tires, coilovers, etc..

I drove the car a two weeks, and already bought a new exhaust.

Website · Post by **frosted flakes** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

hey,

yeah, i did the same thing and decided not to go with the mount kits. The downpipe will clear, the turbo dump pipe will hit the steering rack. To overcome this problem we took the turbo dump pipe and cut a slot where the steering rack hit (it doesnt go more than 1/4" in....barely the thickness of the metal. We then took the dump pipe to a welding shop where they welded a piece of curved metal into it and smoothed it out so exhaust would flow nicely over it for $20. It works great! $20 is much better than paying for motor mounts. But the downside is you will have to cut some of the hood bracing if you are using the same intake manifold / intercooler. We did it and it worked great didnt take that long either.

Check my website. http://members.cardomain.com/funkycrzyshietGood Luck

Tony

Post by **Bluefire** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Hey night what mounts are you trying to sell for $350... I'm very interested...

Also I wonder why UM is selling there mounts for $500 when MM is selling theres for $600.

-Bluefire

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

seeing as how ive never seen these mounts, are they full mounts that bolt to the block, then crossmember, or are they adaptor plates that the stock mounts bolt to then the adaptors bolt to the insulator on the crossmember?

Post by **s250R** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

ill be more than willing to test the RB25 mounts for you after you send me my engine... :rolleyes please post pics of them installed and out of the car when you do try them out

Post by **IvoryJ30t** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

you wouldnt possibly be able to aquire mounts to bolt to a VG crossmember?

Post by **Bluefire** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

To be honest, if I were the only company out there selling mounts for the 25, I'd probably mark the price up too. Anyways I am very glad to hear your going to be coming out with mounts now night!! especially at a lower price!! I am definitely in the market for them now so I will be eagerly awaiting updates on those.

Concerns for me are basically clearance issues, centered shifter, and front space for aftermarket radiator and electric fans. Also will you be redesigning you downpipes to work with these new mounts? And any plans to come out with matching driveshaft?

Basically im cleaning and doing maintenence on my 25 right now so in a month or so I should be ready to drop it in. And mounts are an absolute must for me...

-Bluefire

Post by **Touchdown038** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Yeah really man, Imissmyturbo himself said that he received his clip in good working order. Now that Cam's situation with the clips is done maybe it would be a good time to drop it.

The fact that you haven't posted in a month shows a lot as well.

Post by **underground** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Hi Cam,

We've only talked once by phone, you probably wouldn't remember. I am not going to try to flame you as I don't know you or much about your business.

What I can tell you is that my customers are 100% satisfied with our products. We have never NOT delivered on anything, our customers are our blood, and without them we wouldnt be here.

We are the East Coast Distributor for McKinney Motorsports. When you get your shop open, maybe you will distribute for somebody. We aren't riding anyones coat tails and momma aint paying my rent.

If I didn't think the McKinney mounts weren't the best on the market, I would put my name on them. I fully believe in their products and have done enough swaps to tell you it's the best thing going.

Call Sean Morris with RB motoring, call Neil from HCI magazine, check our our references. We're not writing 10 tech issues for HCI magazine in 2004 on RB motors because we don't know our stuff.

I have noticed that you like to put down your competition. McKinney's mounts are flawless, and they are the wrong shop to pick on. Not only have they been in business for more than 40 years, but they are known by almost every major Nissan shop in the United States. None of the major shops would even consider knocking McKinney, to some they are the holy grail of the Nissan tuning world.

You and I haven't been around long enough to even take a small shot at their integrity. I know for a fact that you called McKinney to get help with the wiring when you first got started. So, please don't put down their products.

They and myself have no problems with your operation, but we'd prefer not to enter a flame war with you. There's enough piece of the pie for all of us, and we cant forget who we're here to service. As the old saying goes, "the customer is always right."

If you have anything you'd like to discuss, I'd like to talk with you. My cell is 501-230-1343. We can all learn from eachother, keep that in mind!

Post by **themadscientist** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

All engine mount makers take it outside!:mad: The kid can't afford either one so either help him or be quiet. Between the two of you you can tell him how to make do with what he has and later he can seek you out if he wants to changeup the mounts.

Post by **LarryStooge** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

getting back on subject like madscientist requested. heres a peice of advice;

cut as much out as possible to see if it clears. dont dent your o2 housing. my local buddy john did this on his rb25 swap in his 98 240sx. and it is a serious boddleneck now (we beleive its the reason his rb25 with n1 catback is queter than his stock ka with n1 was). Its better to get everything hanging in the engien bay and see where it will rub, then grind off and try and refit, and keep doing so until it fits properly. youll regret denting it later, trust me.

Post by **themadscientist** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Thank you gentlemen;)

Post by **Imissmyturbo** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Well I don't know how anyone could dent a cast Iron pipe but If I where to make a steal pipe with much thiner walls and larger inside diameter then I should get more clearance then the stock O2 housing. Plus I can add a second O2 hole for my Wideband. I just wanted to get an idea of where the interferance is. Thanks

Post by **Wulfgang** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

StephNic, that car should be QUIETER with the RB25 and N1 than it was with KA and no turbo. The turbo will quiet things down quite a bit. Just reading around, most people say the N1 is waay to loud on an N/A engine, but ok on a turbo (for sound).

And to imissmyturbo: don't worry about getting custom mounts. Like others have said, the cost of fixing a dp fitment problem with the R33 x-member is still much le$$ than the cost of custom mounts.

I also like how everyone says that custom mounts fix any "clearance" issues... but don't the custom mounts move the engine's oil pan lower than the bottom of the x-member??? And why is this not a clearance issue in itself? Ever seen any x-members that do not have scratches on the bottom? After you move your oilpan that low, it will get dented and scratched instead of the x-member taking any hits. I would rather keep my oilpan dent-free.

Shane

Post by **FAST-DATSUN** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

With our kit the oil pan is just above or even with the front crossmember and with all the kits we have sold over the last two years no 0ne has had a clearance problem even the drifters...Mack

Post by **NISMO_RB25** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

i used the mounts, and my oil pan sits the same height as the KA engine did.

Post by **Project240** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Hey Night, would that $220 3" stainless downpipe you sell fix any clearance issues with the exhaust/DP/O2 sensor and whatever else might hit the steering rack? If my stock downpipe and o2 housing clears, great, but I want a 3" system all the way back (already ordering a 3" cat and catback)...

BTW, this is an S13 and an RB20, not RB25...

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

HEY CAM, DO THESE RB20 MOUNTS UTILIZE THE STOCK DRIVESHAFT? HOW ABOUT POWERSTEERING?

Post by **T_love** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Night, i'm getting in line for the RB25 mounts. So with the mounts the only thing that needs to be modified is the driveshaft right? Everything else goes in smooth(relatively speaking) i presume.

Post by **AZhitman** » Thu Jan 08, 2004 9:59 am

Gentlemen - I just stumbled into this thread. Let's keep it on topic.

Don't make me come in there.

Thanks gents.

Question about swap.....Long

Question about swap.....Long

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