Question about replacing boots on rack 95 Q45

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Walnuts
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Car: 1995 Q45 with TCS 118K

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I just recieved my oem rubber rack boots from Joe and plan to install them this weekend. I have never worked on the steering system\tierods before and could use some help determining the easiest way to get the new boots installed. I have the FSM and have reviewed the appropriate section but would really appreciate some real world experience. Any special tools that I would need for this job? Thanks, Adam

I plan to get an alignment after I finish installing the new boots.

Thanks, Adam


maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
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Have you done a search on rack or boots? Seem to recall some experiences recounted therein.

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elwesso
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Basically what you will do is inscrew the tie rod from the rack (be sure to mark it) and slide the boots on..... You want to get the tie rod as close as possible to its original location.....

911/Q45
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I counted the exposed threads on the tie rods before I started, then put them back the way I found them.

Walnuts
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Car: 1995 Q45 with TCS 118K

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So I just need to count the threads and then romove the lock nut from the tie rod and rotate the rod until it comes out? Again, sorry for my ignorance but I have never worked on any steering components before. In my picture below, is the circle in red the only thing that I need to work with?


911/Q45
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That's it.

3Q Jay
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so, i might be professing my ignorance here, as i've never done this job on a nissan product, but having removed tie rod ends on some previous vehicles, i'm not sure that you will be able to remove the end just by unscrewing it. you may also have to seperate the tierod end from the kingpin. you may need a 'pickle fork' to do this, and then if you go that far, you may just want to replace the tie rod ends anyway.when you've finished.. please post your experiences.

Walnuts
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Joined: Thu Jun 17, 2004 7:09 am
Car: 1995 Q45 with TCS 118K

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Thanks for all of the advice. The process of replacing the rack boots this weekend with OEM boots from Joe, went extremely well. Total time was about 20 min per boot. My process went as follows:

1. Put front end up on jack stands2. Counted the number of exposed threads on the tie rod up to the lock nut. In my case there were 17 on the left and 18 on the right.2. Loosened the lock nut on the left tie rod.3. Rotated the tie rod until it came out of the assembly that connects to the wheel (I don't know the part name so I’ll call it the tie rod end).4. Removed the lock nut.5. Added some grease to the ball joint and a little to the tie rod to help the boot slide on.6. Slid the new boot onto the tie rod and attached to the rack with the included wire.7. Screwed the tie rod back into the (tie rod end?) leaving the same approximate number of threads exposed.8. Tightened the lock nut

Same for other side and then I went and got an alignment. The only tools required were two large crescent wrenches, a screwdriver to twist the wire used to secure the boot, and a very small flat head screwdriver used to count the exposed threads.

Thanks again for the guidance! Adam

natsoundup
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Congratulations! I had someone do this on my 90 a few years ago and then got an alignment..

I would like some of the gurus to weigh in: If you count the threads and then re-thread to your exact count, wouldn't the car be in alignment.

What am I missing here?

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Q451990
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It's hard to be that precise. I have tried a couple of things... marking the threads with paint, etc. The next time you have an alignment done, notice how little the tech. moves those adjustments to change things. One thread is a lot...

Heath

3Q Jay
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good job Adam, glad to hear i was wrong about seperating at the end [the cotterpin and nut part where it attaches to the kingpin].now, if you don't mind.. how much for the boots? mine are getting pretty brittle.

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Q451990
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If I remember correctly they're less than $15 each from Scottsdale. Not bad even for routine maintence every couple of years to prevent costly rack replacement!

Heath


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