Question about oil pan

[vg30de93]

this may sound stupid but when swapping the vh45 into the z32, why cant you just simply turn the oil pan backwards to make it a rear sump? is it just the bolt holes wont line up?

[T45]

The shape of the pan will not allow for it. I think someone cut the flange off and flipped around, it will work with a little massaging. Also, you'll need to extend the pickup to the rear and you will probably find that the stock Q pan turned around won't fit behind the rack on the Z.

[vg30de93]

The shape of the pan will not allow for it. I think someone cut the flange off and flipped around, it will work with a little massaging. Also, you'll need to extend the pickup to the rear and you will probably find that the stock Q pan turned around won't fit behind the rack on the Z.

yea i know about extending the pick tube, i already have a solution for that, just being curious you know. now would it be easier making a new pan from scratch with the q45 connection area or go your route with the z32/q45 combination

[Wes M]

Heya.. its not too hard to cut off the flange and spin it 180 degrees. I hacked mine off with a cutting disk about 10 to 15mm below the flange and then miged it back on again. You'll need a couple of small strips of steel to fill the gaps where the sump gets wider (you'll see what I mean).

I found the mig worked quite well. A lot of people complain about welding of the sump creating distortion. I took no chances and screwed the flange to a solid block of wood. I then welded about 50mm at a time on different parts of the sump to minimise heat input. I had the juice turned down as low as I could get away with. The end result was absolutely no warping!

A couple of problems I did come across:

1) because I was welding so cold I had lack of fusion at the stop start of my welds. This was easy to fix with a bit of grinding and re-welding the small spots will slightly higher current

2) you'll need to cut a couple of the side baffles down to clear the shielding plate on the bottom of the engine. Once again it'll be obvious when you do it.

I done a dye penetrant check on the sump to check for any leaks - this is important as you wouldn't spot them by eye. Reweld and recheck until its clear.

I've just finished my oil pickup mods - I'll load some photos up shortly.

I don't consider myself a good or even ok welder - just persistent and good with a grinder

[vg30de93]

ya some pics of the tube and oil pan would be great

[Wes M]

Ok I've posted a couple up in my other thread.. VH into a S1 RX7

[darinz]

I just had a look at you rear sump pictures. I've been trying to figure out how to run one with factory auto and still retain the braces. With the power I'm running I don't think it would be a good idea to delete them.I'm thinking I might look at what you have done but with a plate welded to the sump to bolt through, obviously the bolts need to go the other way with a factory setup.

[Wes M]

Yes you're right.. i remember the bolts for the braces bolt into the bellhousing from the engine side. Have a look to see if you can drill them through the bellhousing ie is there a flat spot behind it so you could use it like an ordinary bolt hole from the gearbox side?

I chose 3mm for the reinforcing plate on my sump because I had it available and it can be tricky welding sheet steel to thick plate material.

The other option would be to cut the braces and weld them onto the sump.. You might find the two outer bolts on either side clear? I don't think you'd have a chance with the two centre ones though.. they will foul too badly on the sump.