question about head location bushings..

Post by **r34 gtr** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 1:45 pm

first off, let me explain that i cannot currently get online to post on this forum because i cannot get on the internet from my apartment. my laptop died so i went home and picked up another computer. i set it up and within 2 hours of doing so, that computer died. i have a total of 20 pages worth of assignments due in the next 2 days...im freaking out. anyway, a friend of mine let me use her computer while she is at a class so here i am.

i put the whole engine back together and realized i forgot to put in the little metal bushings that locate the head onto the block. do i absolutely have to have these? please tell me theyre optional...

also, my autometer oil pressure sensor wont go in the nissan hole, do i need to re-tap the hole or is there a nissan part that i didnt get? again, the engine is completely back together so taking it apart is a bit of a nuisance. if need be though, i will take it apart.

thanks for the help in advance, ill try to get back online in a few days to check it out.

- tim

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 6:02 pm

IMO, no you don't need the "bushings" as you call the. I think the only reason they are there is so that you have a reference for when you take the head on and off.

Post by **slw240sx** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 10:41 pm

float_6969 wrote:IMO, no you don't need the "bushings" as you call the. I think the only reason they are there is so that you have a reference for when you take the head on and off.

i didnt have them after machine work either , they are mainly just alignment pins, however that could be pretty important!

also go out buy a 7$ 1/8th NPT tap, tap out the hole for the pressure switch. i didnt have to tap it mine fit for some reason, think my friend just made it fit

Post by **r34 gtr** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 6:52 am

im guessing you guys used them when possible though.. i would think that the 10 ARP head studs would do a pretty good job of locating the head though..

i figured i needed to modify that hole, just wish i had done so when the oil pan wasnt attached to the block with a 1/2in bead of RTV silicone. i didnt want that thing to even think about leaking since ive had such terrible luck with oil and it disappearing. wanted to have all my bases covered. oh well, ive got about a quart of the stuff so no harm done i guess.

on a side note, the engine goes back in the car the next time i get back to work on it. its all back together (well, not for long, but that will only take a total of about 30 minutes) so with some luck ill get to hear it start up in a few weeks! im so excited you have no idea. its been over 6 months. on top of that, i downloaded a bunch of best motoring videos and i want to slide something soooooo bad!

lastly, thats a nice picture jon. the car looks great. and ryan is gay!!!!!! thats right, you just got 0wn3d!

- tim

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:19 am

Well, the bushings are there for alignment when putting the head together so the headgasket doesn't move, but if you managed to put the head studs in, no worries then.

Let the War games begin between Ryan and Tim, I Can't wait until Ryan responed lol.Thats gonna be interesting.

PULSAR GTR

Post by **float_6969** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 4:33 am

Tim, first of all, are you sure that the ARP head studs work? Do you have it together with them yet? There is another thread saying they don't work. Take a look http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=86381 If yours work, are they not the ones off of eBay? Let me know which route you took so I can get the right ones ordered.

As for being gay, your girlfriend didn't seem to think so last night. But what does it matter? This is coming from a guy that lives in a state that believes that if your girlfriend isn't your sister that you shouldn't be with her. "If she isn't good enough for her family, she's not good enough for ours!" So either your girlfriend is a slut, or your sister/girlfriend is a slut. Either way you're STILL retarded, and now you're a loser.

Post by **xyster** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 11:43 am

Not sure about the headbolt bushing problem, but as for the autometer oil pressure gauge, you need a 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter. Autometer makes one, and it costs about $10. Much, much neater than tapping the hole to NPT, IMHO. Oh, and the guy who's friend just "made it work", I'd keep a close eye on that fitting, and keep your friend away from the engine. NPT and BSPT are not compatible.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 5:52 pm

hey ryan, no harm meant there. easy killer. im not in rural enough alabama for that rule to apply. its limited to cousins around these parts than you very much!!

my head studs arent from ebay. i got them from justin here on the CA forum. they work fine and the head has been on the engine for several weeks now.

xyster, thanks for the info, ill definately go pick one up this week.

- tim

Post by **slw240sx** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 9:02 pm

the sender unit isnt comming back off. if it leaks then ill take it out and tap it out since the tap is really easy and cheaper then a adapter.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:58 am

yeah. i would probably try to tap the hole if my oil pan wasnt already manhandled onto the block with about 5 times the reccomended amount of blue rtv silicone. i dont think you would have any problems as long as its really well in there. if it leaks just put some rtv silicone around it and call it a day.

- tim

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:31 pm

Just giving you trouble Tim. I hadn't seen you in a while. I don't have anybody to make fun of when you're gone

Post by **slw240sx** » Tue Oct 19, 2004 12:22 am

r34 gtr wrote:yeah. i would probably try to tap the hole if my oil pan wasnt already manhandled onto the block with about 5 times the reccomended amount of blue rtv silicone. i dont think you would have any problems as long as its really well in there. if it leaks just put some rtv silicone around it and call it a day.

- tim

pull that pan back off tim!!!!!!!!!! blue RTV isnt for parts that contact oil..

use the grey stuff, or "the right stuff" yeah we put RTV sealent on the threads when we screwed it in so shouldnt leak at all.

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Oct 19, 2004 7:57 am

Jon's right. I only use the blue stuff on h20 pumps and stuff like that. For oil I've got a black colored rtv. It specifically says that it's OK for oil right on it. Check your tube and make sure it says that. If it doesn't, then you need to pull it back off and redo it.

Post by **NeedCAforS13** » Tue Oct 19, 2004 9:04 am

I used the orange nissan rtv for my stuff... works fine too:)

Sean

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Oct 19, 2004 9:06 pm

Thats the best stuff. I used that crap on my old KA-E on the exhaust manifold leak and it held for a good month or so...

Post by **slw240sx** » Tue Oct 19, 2004 11:37 pm

hes goin to have the pull that pan off blue is for water pumps and non oil/fuel stuff... grey or black is for oil. the RIGHT STUFF is like 3$ a can and can do the pan 4 times at least

float_6969 wrote:Jon's right. I only use the blue stuff on h20 pumps and stuff like that. For oil I've got a black colored rtv. It specifically says that it's OK for oil right on it. Check your tube and make sure it says that. If it doesn't, then you need to pull it back off and redo it.

Post by **float_6969** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 8:15 am

^^ He's such a smart guy. Look at that quote there! Man, what a braniac!^^

question about head location bushings..

question about head location bushings..

Re: (float_6969)

Re: (r34 gtr)

Re: (float_6969)

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