Question about drag technique?

[240sx2soon]

For anyone with an auto KA24DE, do you just leave it in drive and nail the gas or do you start in 1st, then shift to second and then go to drive? And if that is how you do it then is there a benifit, i.e. faster times?

When I first got here someone mentioned some thing about doing a search to find out how to take .5 seconds off my 1/4 mile time. I assumed this was B.S. and justing picking at the noob so I didn't bother to take a closer look into it, but now I am curious if there is any truth to it.

[:: orion ::]

Back when I had an auto...it was always faster by just putting it in D and flooring it.

There is a resistor that when unplugged will increase the trans line pressure...but it will also shorten the life of the trans...and while it feels better (hard shifts), mine was NO faster with it unplugged.

But no matter what you do...you'll NEVER run any faster than mid-16s unless the car weighs ~2300lbs...the auto gearing sucks for drag racing with only ~155HP.

- Brian

[240sx2soon]

Any links to sites that list the gearing for auto vs. manual gearing? The reason I ask about the shifting is that it seems like I'm not winding all the way out in first and second. I have the pedal to the floor but I have been told that listening to it from the outside ( next to the track during my runs ) it sounds like it's shorting it self. Whats the rev limit on the stock KA? And is it rev limited or fuel cut off?

[FliMSiCaL]

turn overdrive off! hehe. I don't know if auto 240's have it, i've never driven an auto one. Most cars will not wind out to full potential with OD on, turn it off and it shifts more aggressivley.

[:: orion ::]

With stock cams, there's no reason to wind it out anyway...and time spent above 6000rpm is a waste.

For 240SX gearing...plug that into Google, you'll find it.

- Brian

[Structure240sx]

when i was auto i ran 16.2's with intake and exhuast and a huge gay metal wing. my friend with a 95 auto open diff ran 15.7 with intake and exhuast. now he has a CEL retarding his total timing to 20-22 degrees making him run 17's until we fix it or turbo it.

so the auto can be decent

[240sx2soon]

CEL? I thought advanceing the timing on N/A 240s was a good thing?

[:: orion ::]

CEL = Check Engine Light

And what he means by ~20-22 TOTAL timing is 0-2 degrees of advance...basically NO advance.

Your base timing is 20 BTDC, and the ECU gives more advance depending on load...up to 8 degrees (so 20 + 8 = 28 total timing).

So bumping the base to ~22 BTDC will get decent results (a few HP), but more than ~30 degrees total timing on a 9.5:1 compression motor is increasing the risk for 'pinging'.

FYI...

- Brian

[Red coupe]

try holding your brake down with your left foot and flooring it with our right, the engine will rev up to your torque converters stall speed once it it that let off the brake and your off...

[240sx2soon]

Tried doing the brake thing but it's hard to get it done after I hit the second stage light. It also tends to creep a bit when I stand to hard on the gas. My reaction times are pretty ****ty ( .9 and small change ) but even if I get better RT's it still really isn't going to help much. Guess I just gotta man up and install the 5 speed, whats $1200 anyway, I can sell my kid on the black market for at least twice that much

[Red coupe]

Yup you can always make another kid, but it takes precises machining and engineering to make a 5 spd