Question about 90-93 and 94-95 coil pack differences...

[T45]

I swapped out the coil packs from the 92 onto the 95. After finding a decent misfire I began to dig into it, all injectors ohm out and click nicely. Got on NICO to find the 95 coils are different. What makes the difference? Just the front 2? I thought when I seated them they didn't feel right compared to the others. I am in a jam so is it possible to lengthen the conductors until I can get replacements? If the length is the culprit of course.

[Carl H]

95 should be the same as the rest, the 96 coils have an inbuilt ignitor.

[Q45tech]

Differences in mounting screws, redesigned. Use brand new oem for appropriate year only.

[T45]

Thanks, I spoke with Jerry on the phone and he informed that since I used all 92 electronics on the 95 I should be good. Engine seems to have a slight miss or studder at low rpm's so I was thinking injectors or coils. Seems at high rpms or WOT the engine runs great.

Fuel was a year old so when it got below 1/4 tank I got $50 of 100 octane unleaded. This made no change in the miss but she runs out very well now.

Thinking it was maybe a clogged injector I went up and got some 44K and after about 5 miles the idle came up about 3-400 rpms. After adjusting idle down and another 5 miles it crept back up another 2-300. I figure the injectors and/or valves were really dirty and this further backs up my belief that the 44K is "The s***". Still missing a bit in the low end or so it seems, will run more fuel and see what happens.

[Carl H]

silly question but did you change the plugs?

[T45]

Yes, anything affordably changable was changed. The BG really cleaned this thing out, after everything was said and done the idle had increased by about 6-800 over initial setting after the injectors were cleaned. Runs great now.

I need to check to make sure my fuel pressure is increased via FPCU at WOT. It is increasing at startup but I don't know about any other time. I found 2 FPCU wires on the VH ecu and just picked one. Maybe I got it right, however it does seem to fall off after 6k rpm.

Most of the studder, I thought, is actually from a vibration I have. Trying to track that down now.

[SuperHatch]

Do yourself a favor and ohm the knock sensors too. Bad knock sensors can cause studdering and misses.

[T45]

Will do. Not sure it's a miss though, it feels like I glued a 2lb weight to one side of the flywheel. Not sure where my problem lies. I used the VH spacer and ground off the tit on the crank so I don't think the flywheel is off. I am baffled. How hard is it to tell a miss on the VH? It literally feels like something is out of balance.

[SuperHatch]

Will do. Not sure it's a miss though, it feels like I glued a 2lb weight to one side of the flywheel. Not sure where my problem lies. I used the VH spacer and ground off the tit on the crank so I don't think the flywheel is off. I am baffled. How hard is it to tell a miss on the VH? It literally feels like something is out of balance.

I've been chasing injector issues since I've had my Z together. When its down a cylinder you can sorta make out the noise and the motor feels sluggish, but when its down two it feel like its going to rattle itself apart.

So for me, it's easy to tell if there's a miss. The sound is the biggest indicator, vibration is a close second.

If it's missing all the time it's probably not your knock sensors, but the KS can make the motor break up and heasitate at part throttle and such.

Still worth looking into IMO.

[T45]

I will for sure. Jerry has offered to help me out this weekend but I am leaving for Alaska tomorrow morning for a month or so for work. At least when I get back I can afford more stuffs for it and some time off.

It just doesn't feel like a miss. It idles perfectly. It runs out perfectly. If I put it around 2-3k in neutral it is felt but not heard. I know my rebuild VH was butter smooth so that's what I'm basing it on. It feels like I have a Ford engine under the hood or a 4.3 Chevy V6 without the counterbalancer.