I know this thread is old but, is that for an rb20det?mott6904 wrote:Yea that sounds fair but i dont know if i have a spare bracket on my shortblock. Ill check tomorow and see if i have one.
i'm not sure... i bought mine off ebay remanned to like new for $90 shipped. on the ad it says 93-98 quest/villager and claims it's 125a. not sure if i can verify if it really is 125a.StricNyne wrote:what year was the 125a i thought it was 105 and 110 ? sounds good i got an quest alt idk wut year but i was waiting on my alt to take a **** first
I can provide more details if anybody is interested with my method.gawdzilla wrote:finally got around to doing this with the quest 125a. got it to work but probably would've been better to make my bracket so i could go back to the stock RB alt if i wanted to. someone posted on page 1 with that method.
ugh the more i think about it the more i should've done it your way. just requires a bit more hardware but being able to go back to oem is key.ninety1two40 wrote:Ok, I don't want to remove the bracket but I'll take more pics and make a diagram. It's really simple.
i was thinking maybe different models of Quests with different options that require more power.. i dunno like rear stereo/accessories might have them offer 2 different alts amperages. not too sure. but either way it's an upgrade and remanned part to replace old.l0nestar wrote:Stock _is_ 110a for a 94 Quest.
The only way that I know of to verify the amperage would be to remove the alternator and set it on a test rig.
let me guess, you're using spacers LOLninety1two40 wrote:
I can provide more details if anybody is interested with my method.
he made an adapter bracket that lets you tension the quest alternator using the RB tensioner setup. it is a great idea. i can see what he did but its difficult to tell if you hvaen't played much with the setup:BoostFab wrote:let me guess, you're using spacers LOL
ninety1two40 wrote:I know this is an older thread but it seems like a good place to post this so people can find it easy.
I used an alternator from 1996 Nissan Quest.
Instead of chopping up the stock alternator bracket I decided to make an adapter that would allow me to still use the belt tensioner and give me the option to go back to the stock RB25 alternator. I had to enlarge the lower mounting holes on the alternator. But I didn't have to modify the block or the alt bracket.
I basically welded two angle pieces together and drilled two holes. I'll try and get a better picture soon, but all I had at the time was my camera phone.
BTW: I'm still new to welding
I had wondered about that as well, but there is only one part no for a Quest or Villager.. and it is 110a. At least according to Napa, Advance, and Auto Zone. We just got an O'Reily.. I did not check there..gawdzilla wrote: i was thinking maybe different models of Quests with different options that require more power.. i dunno like rear stereo/accessories might have them offer 2 different alts amperages. not too sure. but either way it's an upgrade and remanned part to replace old.
I noticed with some alternators that I have bought from Advance Auto and Car Quest, put out more power than is listed. Most new alternators come with a data sheet and plot of the output current vs. rpm. Every alternator isn't exactly the same.l0nestar wrote:I had wondered about that as well, but there is only one part no for a Quest or Villager.. and it is 110a. At least according to Napa, Advance, and Auto Zone. We just got an O'Reily.. I did not check there..