QR25DE - Oil filter size changed in MY 2008?

[barlowc]

It seems that beginning in the 2008 model year, the spec oil filter for the QR25DE went from a Fram XG7317 / Purolator PL14610 / Mobil 1 M1-110 size filter to a shorter XG6607 / PL14612 / M1-108 size. Does anyone know why the spec changed? Did something with the engine itself change? And what functional difference does the 1" height difference result in?

[mrodrig2]

It makes no difference whatsoever as long as you have the proper oil level.

[barlowc]

It makes no difference whatsoever as long as you have the proper oil level.

I have tended to think the same and have run the larger of the two for years now. However, there had to be a reason that Nissan changed the spec, and I'm wondering what it is.

[sultan]

only difference is that the one is a little longer, my fx35 calls for the same XG6607 / PL14612 / M1-108 filter but i've been using the longer Fram XG7317 / Purolator PL14610 / Mobil 1 M1-110. as long as there is enough space for the extra length just use it, no worries.

[barlowc]

only difference is that the one is a little longer. as long as there is enough space for the extra length just use it, no worries.

Again, I tend to agree. But I'm looking for insight as to WHY Nissan changed the spec. Not whether it's OK to use the longer variant.

[mrodrig2]

No one will ever know unless you or someone you know worked at Nissan corporate at that time. The difference in the volume of oil held between the two filters is basically inconsequential so I doubt there are any technical merits. It is probably something to do with the price of the filters and wanting to standardize on the size for volume purchase.

[sstroudwku]

only difference is that the one is a little longer. as long as there is enough space for the extra length just use it, no worries.

Again, I tend to agree. But I'm looking for insight as to WHY Nissan changed the spec. Not whether it's OK to use the longer variant.

Nissan did not change anything, we have two major filters a 65 and a 9E. Sounds like the aftermarket world realised they could get away with producing one filter for all with compensation of adding an additional 1/8qt of oil. The Nissan 65 is a short filter and goes on the QR25, VQ35-37. the 9E goes on the VQ40 and VK50-56 engines.

[barlowc]

sstroudwku, I'm not sure I follow.

When you say, "we have two major filters a 65 and a 9E", do you work for Nissan?

I'm not sure I understand the comment about aftermarket manufacturers and what they had to do with this. Nissan used to use the longer filter on the QR25. Then, in 2007, they switched to the shorter one. The aftermarket simply produces both sizes and (generally) recommends them in line with Nissan's switch. They don't produce one and say you can use it in both applications.

[sstroudwku]

sstroudwku, I'm not sure I follow.

When you say, "we have two major filters a 65 and a 9E", do you work for Nissan?

I'm not sure I understand the comment about aftermarket manufacturers and what they had to do with this. Nissan used to use the longer filter on the QR25. Then, in 2007, they switched to the shorter one. The aftermarket simply produces both sizes and (generally) recommends them in line with Nissan's switch. They don't produce one and say you can use it in both applications.

Yes I'm a Technician for Nissan, we have two oil filters if you exclude the older models. 15208-65F0C - Which is used on Altima, Maxima, Murano, Quest, Sentra, Cube, Versa. And 15208-9E000 Which goes on the Titan,Armada,Frontier, Pathfinder, Xterra. There is a slight difference between the L31 "2002-2006" and L32 "2007-2012". Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly in your question. Are you looking for an engineering reason for the swap? If so there isnt one, they adopted the new filter for uniformity across the lineups and ease of parts distribution. The functional difference between the two is filter efficiency. More surface area = more filtering.

[barlowc]

Great information sstroudwku!!! That's exactly what I was hoping to learn. Thanks!

The catalyst for my question was when I recently noticed an increase in noise when I started my 2008 Altima Coupe. It's for that first second when it fires up after which it quiets down, the RPMs fall, and it goes to idle. It only happens when the car has been sitting all night or all day while I'm at work. (That's what they call a "cold soak", right?) In another forum, someone suggested that it was timing chain rattle and could be due to my using the slightly longer filter and it taking more time to build up proper oil pressure.

I was close to the end of a 6K mile OCI, and while the dipstick read halfway between the high and low marks, I was about 0.5 quarts shy on the 5.0 quarts that went in. So that may have been a contributing factor. Since then, I've changed the oil, using 5.0 quarts of the API-licensed variety of Royal Purple 5W-30 and the spec "shorty" filter. The noise has quieted a bit, but something I can still notice.


Given youf experience and knowledge with this engine, what do you know/think about the noise I described? Someone pointed me to Service Bulletin NTB07-021b (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12783812/NTB07-021b.pdf) but it applies to 2008 Altima Coupe units build before August 17, 2007 and mine was manufactured May 2008.

[sstroudwku]

I would have to hear it for 100% verification but it does sound like the timing chain tensioner losing pressure while sitting. This could be attributed to a couple things, one is that RP is a pure syn which makes it a bit thinner in nature and takes a little longer to build pressure, it could be the TSB you linked as well, you cant always rely on the TSB's applicable vehicle list. If you still have some powertrain warranty left 5/60k you can have this done and it should be free of charge. If you're out of the warranty period you're looking at 1hr of labor to do the reprogram, however the cam sprocket will be a much bigger repair. It's basically doing a timing chain service. If you send me your vin I can run it tomorrow and give you an approximate on the sprocket. Each dealer has their own way of mark up, some are set and the worst use a matrix pricing.

Our filters are designed with valves that prevent drain back, or their supposed to. This keeps the pressure in the system to prevent a completely dry start. Now based on what I've been able to decipher from the block "it's rare we tear one completely apart" the tensioner is fed off the same line as the oil pressure sensor. If you watch the noise will go away around the same time as your light going out. If the noise is coming from the tensioner and not the sprocket you may have had a slack guide shoe slip off it's plate and your tensioner has fully extended. There are so many "what ifs" I dont want to go into to many hypotheticals.

Hope this has helped some.