Q45a will not go into self diagnostic mode

[silver2k2]

I am looking at 94 Q45,

I tried putting it into diagnostic mode using the console switch but the light would just remain lit.

I am guessing that must mean its the Active Computer?

I check the struts and they did not seem to be leaking, the active fluid was the correct color and about halfway up th dip stick.

How much is an active computer used, I know they are around 1100 from joe

Any other ideas

[elwesso]

The active computer is probably not bad... Something must have not been right..... I dont think we've had any reported and confirmed cases of active computers going bad.

Ill wait for some more experienced active guys to comment. Im thinking that if it was low on fruid that it wont go into diagnosis.

[friedrice2841]

I have the active suspension computer module. It was the only thing I saved when I had my Q converted last month. Let me know if you need it

[silver2k2]

Thanks FriedRice I will let you know.

It needs some cosmetics but many of the standard q45 problems are doneValve Cover GasketsUnder Plenum HosesFan replacedNew RadiatorNew Alternator and battery

The dealer had no idea what to with active, and told the owner it would cost 7k to fix by just replacing everything, and told them there was no way to convert it.

Texasoil said the car does wierd things on low voltage, so I was thinkin maybe since they just replaced the alt and battery maybe the low voltage did something to the computer.

It should go into diag mode with low fluid as one of the codes, Code 45 is for low fluid
Modified by silver2k2 at 8:07 AM 4/24/2007

[lino]

The only time I remember my car not going into diagnostic mode was when I was doing the test wrong. My car still gives a code 55 even when the fluid is low. Have you checked the fluid level just to see where it'ds at? Since you have all the service records, were any of the active suspension components replaced? You could also ask them to disconnect the battery cable overnight and try the test the next day, that might reset something. I gave up on trying to understand why it does or doesn't do things, I simply do the things that seem to work. Disconnecting the battery cable solved problems for me in the past.

BTW are the dust boots on the rear shocks (actuators) torn? Any signs of leaks?

[silver2k2]

I am pretty sure I am doing it right just like the FSM says

The boots are not split, and they dont seem to be leaking.

She said for the last year when the active starting giving her trouble she would pull the neg cable and reset the battery then it would be fixed. I am looking for the real problem as that is more a patch fix to me something must be really wrong.

The fluid level is half way up the dipstick

Not much in the records about the active, they did have a bottle of the correct active fluid so that is promising

[texasoil]

This reminds me of a long standing issue my wife once had with her Lincoln Town car (1984). It had throttle body fuel injection, Ford Duraspark (electronically set ignition timing, non adjustable distributor). Every so often (no particular interval) it would not fire. tow in to Dealer--invariably started on the tow truck bed and drove down. Was not reproducible. They kept changing stuff all through the warranty-but never cured it. continued changing stuff(at her expense) after. Then I came into her life and that crap stopped. When it refused to start. Wait an hour, or day. Then found if disconnected battery, worked every time. Then went to Caracas (Venezuela) and met a man (in the parking garage for the main theater there) whose same vintage LTD would not start. I helped him check things--first took off fuel line-good fuel pressure-then he immediately removed battery cables, reversed them for a split second, reconnected them -and bingo!!. He said it was a 'well known defect in the Dura spark computer code' and it would freeze-up sometimes and not fire up on start. Reseting it worked always.

First thing I always do when electronics don't work right is check connectors, then de-power completely.

[silver2k2]

Well the lady called me today, the active is functioning again. She said she will not take less then 2,000. What do you guys think?

[TBrack]

I think thats still a great deal. It sounds like a simple fix with the active, just gotta look at the car in more detail probably.

[silver2k2]

I am not sure its worth 2k considering the money its going to cost to keep it on the road, worst case its 1500 for conversion or 75% of the intial cost. I know it was a 50K plus car. Point is at this point an Active is worth less then base or T at this point in time

[bruce.weiland]

Active is worth less, UNLESS you want one. I am quite happy with my 94 Q45a at $3,500 PLUS the $1,200 and two afternoons I spent getting the active back to new operation, with Keith's recharged (9) accumulators.

If you can turn a wrench (it is not rocket science and very simple), most all actives can be rehabbed for less than conversion. The really expensive parts fail very, very seldom.

Thanks goodness for Keith and his "relatively" inexpensive rehcarge. A rehabbed Q's suspension should be good for and additional 40,000 to 60,000 miles of driving.

[silver2k2]

Yes thats true. I was not looking for an Active specifically, however this was the first q45 I have found with maint records since new. I am scared of the active being a constant pain, I have budgeted for the 1,200 maint of the system I just dont want to be dealing with diagnosing problems all the time as this will be my daily driver. Sad thing is no one else even looked at the car, it will probably be going to the junk yard if I dont buy it

[bruce.weiland]

I assume ( you know the problem with that ) that you have emailed Keith about this car and gotten feed back from him.

Is that correct?

[silver2k2]

Yeah I have talked with Keith a few times. He has assured me that aside from the accumulators (which are a wear item ) the system is pretty solid.Thats why I budgeted 1,200 for the recharge. It is just confusing that the system is coming off and on this makes me think that there is something else wrong outside of the accums. I am going to counter with 1,800 tomorrow that is as high as I am willing to go, that makes its so that I will have 3k into it with new accums, another 1k for a replacement seat cover,antenna, and drivers fog light. Hopefully will be pretty nice car for 4k

[silver2k2]

The light went out for about 3 days then came back on. I put it into diagnostic mode and it came back 55 = no problems

I started the car and the car raised then the light came on

I tried to get it back into diagnostic mode and it would no go

I tried pulling the negative battery cable to reset the computer and tried again and is still wont go

Any ideas?

[lino]

How many times are you flicking the switch and how fast?

[silver2k2]

10 times in 5 seconds

[lino]

That should mean 20 times total. Try to do more than that if you can and see if that works.

[3Q Jay]

if he's getting a 55 code, then he's switching it right. i ususally do '11' times just to be sure. there is a pause where the lite stays steady on, then in about 15 or so seconds it starts flashing the code.

[silver2k2]

yeah I am pretty sure I am getting it into the mode right, it works the first time just not after that. I cant believe how bad it rides with the actsus light on

[caricbrown]

I just replaced my 94 ACTSUS computer with one form a 92 and now the ACTSUS light turns off when the car is running, it will enter diag mode, and ride height is fully functional.