Q45a Suspension Diagnostic

[silver2k2]

Here is the current status if my Active Suspension

No CodesRids really rough

I want to do the Texas Oil recharge, what has me worried is the lack of replacement Actuators other then OEM, I am not even sure if they have them

How bad do my actuators look? Are they leaking bad, normal, good?

I have seen some people just start out with the main accumulators.

Would this give me a chance to see how the actuators work?What are the pros and cons of just doing the main ones









Thanks for the input

[maxnix]

4 main are about 85% of the ride and should identify malfunctioning actuators, which Keith also has on occasion.

[elwesso]

those are NOT the accumulators. They are the acutaors. The accumulators are the little canister (oil filter) looking things on the actuators. The actuators are the hydraulically assisted struts...

You definitely need to replace the dust boots on the actuators.

[3Q Jay]

Hey Silver. congrats on your IPQ active--great find! been busy so haven't chimed in much in the last week.

on my silver 94, i did all 9 at once. it was dead as a rock before that. when the system came back to life i had problems with the multivalve unit. still have a few burping groaning issues, which i've done a workaround at Keith's recommendation. so, that one is like a 90%. it's also on 18's, which apparently isn't a real good match for the active control.

on my recently acquired 95 black, the PO did the 4 strut accums about 2 months before i bought her. according to PO, made 'night and day' difference. my immediate impression after driving silver was that black was 'rough', considering it's on the pillows of 215/65/15. black also goes into fail-safe mode very frequently.

anyway, this is a long way of saying that you can easily start with the 4 strut accums, and do the remaining 5 later as you wish. I intend to do the 5 others on black soon, as i think it is necessary to get back to what's needed.

some of your pics are a bit blurry, but i didn't see obvious leaking of your actuators (struts). you will definitely want to replace the rubber boots and bumper bounds (they are separate on the active cars). as long as the actuators are not leaking, you should be good to keep those.

[silver2k2]

4 main are about 85% of the ride and should identify malfunctioning actuators, which Keith also has on occasion.

That is good news I would really like to get this riding a little better while I focus on restoring the rest.

I could do 4 boots, bumps, and 4 accumulators Then see how everthing works,

3Q Jay

Thank for the input. I really wanted to go with Murano 18's on my Q, I guess you wont be able to tell the difference between 18's and 15's until you get the black one fixed.

I know the system was tuned for stock tires, however I am sure the current setup T rated Goodyear regatta 2 tires are way off too (Sidwall too soft). If I have to get new tires anyways they are going to be 18's

Can you describe 'rough"? Can you still feel every bump and expansion joint/pothole etc? Is the ride livable, wife-able right now my wife doesnt even want to ride in it.

It rides worse then my friends 87 accord with cut springs and worn shocks that he had in HS.

[lino]

on my silver 94, i did all 9 at once. it was dead as a rock before that. when the system came back to life i had problems with the multivalve unit. still have a few burping groaning issues, which i've done a workaround at Keith's recommendation. so, that one is like a 90%.

What was your workaround? What will bring it closer to 100%?

it's also on 18's, which apparently isn't a real good match for the active control.

Are your wheels too heavy or is it something else?

on my recently acquired 95 black, the PO did the 4 strut accums about 2 months before i bought her. according to PO, made 'night and day' difference. my immediate impression after driving silver was that black was 'rough', considering it's on the pillows of 215/65/15. black also goes into fail-safe mode very frequently.

Did the PO have them done by Keith?When your car goes into safe mode, what exactly happens?

some of your pics are a bit blurry, but i didn't see obvious leaking of your actuators (struts). you will definitely want to replace the rubber boots and bumper bounds (they are separate on the active cars). as long as the actuators are not leaking, you should be good to keep those.

Dust boots will have to be replaced for sure.How necessary is it to replace the bumper bounds if the actuators are leaking?

[3Q Jay]

1.What was your workaround? 2.What will bring it closer to 100%?

3.Are your wheels too heavy or is it something else?

4.Did the PO have them done by Keith?5.When your car goes into safe mode, what exactly happens?

Dust boots will have to be replaced for sure.6.How necessary is it to replace the bumper bounds if the actuators are leaking?

1. In deference to Keith and his intellectual property, I'll just say we reduced the system gain.

2. Prolly changing the MV yet again.

3. no doubt-since the bbs forged alloys and some cushy 15's weigh in at around 38 lbm. but i think it has more to do with the sidewall stiffness of a 45 profile.

4. yes.

5. there is a clunk from the MV area, the car rapidly changes attitude (RR seems to drop, havent actually measured it), and the actsus lite comes on.the infuriating thing is that i always get code 55 on the self diagnosis. i thought i got smart yesterday and did the self test, then started the car and drove while still in self test mode. it showed 55 up to the point of the 'clunk' and then just went steady actsus ON.

6. i should have been more precise. change the boots. change the bumpstops. keep the actuators unless leaking.

[lino]

1. In deference to Keith and his intellectual property, I'll just say we reduced the system gain.

I tried adding some MMO.

2. Prolly changing the MV yet again.

How can you tell if you buy another MV if it's good or bad?

5. there is a clunk from the MV area, the car rapidly changes attitude (RR seems to drop, havent actually measured it), and the actsus lite comes on.the infuriating thing is that i always get code 55 on the self diagnosis. i thought i got smart yesterday and did the self test, then started the car and drove while still in self test mode. it showed 55 up to the point of the 'clunk' and then just went steady actsus ON.

I get the clunking and groaning. I'm waiting to see what happens when my actuators are fixed. Maybe the groaning will go away as the MV is probably working harder always trying to deal with the actuators instability.

My green light stays on all the time and I always get a code 55. The only time the green light turns red is when I run low on fluid.

6. i should have been more precise. change the boots. change the bumpstops. keep the actuators unless leaking.

Have you changed the bump stops on your car before? If so what was the condition of the original ones?