Q45tech wrote:"Logical deductions and reasoning" is not a legal part of providing a SPECIFICATION!

BLUNT SMOKER! ENOUGH OF THIS CRAP!

I didnt read any of this stuff because I think its just beating a dead horse (again), but if you can get Q45tech to say this, theres no reason for this to continue!

Heres the simple answer? Dont like paying, dont get an active Q...

elwesso wrote:
I didnt read any of this stuff because I think its just beating a dead horse (again), but if you can get Q45tech to say this, theres no reason for this to continue!

Heres the simple answer? Dont like paying, dont get an active Q...

Sometimes Wes, the answers aren't as simple as we would like them to be.Sometimes money is the answer!Sometimes it's NOT!Sometimes it's just a question of taking a journey!

I will not say another word on how I recharged my Q45a's accumulators on your forum.Thanks for the input, it's been extremly helpful.Aussie

Aussie Q45a wrote:Sometimes Wes, the answers aren't as simple as we would like them to be.Sometimes money is the answer!Sometimes it's NOT!Sometimes it's just a question of taking a journey!

I will not say another word on how I recharged my Q45a's accumulators on your forum.Thanks for the input, it's been extremly helpful.Aussie

Aussie Q45a DO NOT stop posting here I like having a member with a JDM ride...

They don't want you to stop posting about your accumulators.They just want the people to stop geting all hurt when people post BS off the cuff answers and you call then on them...

ScottJackson is VERY helpful he has even posted a few times on my questions and helped out.

I have no issues with Bluntsmoker...I just wanted to have more info like drilling location, type of thread and so on.

I think "welding" the valves after installation is a GREAT idea...I also think you should think about safety 1st and formost...

Saying that... Please be careful very careful and never Quit posting here about anything.

Its not anyone forum its EVERYONES.

yes! Stick around and keep posting. I've got other car projects and my Q is just a good daily driver for me so I don't get to check out the forum as much as I'd like. I do get caught up in sarcasm sometimes and it comes off as being rude and inconsiderate. It's mainly fun and games for me but I do try to include some point or information at the same time. Properly cut threads will be PLENTY to hold the shrader valve into the accumulator. I drilled the end of the accumulator so it wouldn't interfere with the piston inside and I drilled a bit off center as that appeared to be the flattest area and wouldn't cause any issues with other parts when the accum was installed. The valves I used were just 3/8" NPT so I got a tap for that and used plenty of liquid wrench for cutting oil.

The the accumulator wall is at least .222" thick?

I didn't measure, but it is thick. I would say it is at least .222" but it may be just a little less than that. One could weld the valve in but I would be afraid of the intense heat involved doing damage either by distorting the bore for the piston or making the surrounding metal weak or brittle.

GreenQ45a wrote:and once there done they will have the valves you need so you may want to recharge them over there instead of shipping them back.

I'm not understanding this part. Keith: Do you reinforce the accumulator where the valve is inserted? If not, then why are other people saying it's dangerous not to?

ANyway: I say go ahead, what the hell. A partial active system is better then nothing at all.

Ask a question, get an opinion. Glad to see it wasn't just me.

Yeah, I can understand that. DOn't you hate when that happens?

As a good engineer, and with ready access to some of the world's best metallurgists and vessel engineers, I used the talent (these guys ARE rocket scientists and nuclear reactor designers BTW). My methods were well checked and verified sound by well qualified persons besides myself (I made an A in Strength of Materials). Welding is not a simple answer. The steel alloy of the accumulators is not standard, and getting a crack resistant weld joint to 'strut valves' is next to impossible without preheating the accumulator to 450F min. The piston rings ( unique double O-ring bands) melt at a much lower temp than that--so to weld, one has to cool the piston by?. Oh, BTW, you have to use an exquisitly costly weld metal, a very costly high frequency TIG setup, and a welder 'certified' in this particular weld to stand a reasonable chance. Even then, weld cracking probability unacceptably high. Quick and dirty might work,or might not. Me, I sleep well at night knowing I did my best,consulted the real materials and fabrication experts for advice, recomendations, assistance. Have had a few 'leakers' on post recharge Q/A(>1,<10), 3 developed slow leaks in customer service (and were promptly replaced under warranty)

texasoil wrote:As a good engineer, and with ready access to some of the world's best metallurgists and vessel engineers, I used the talent (these guys ARE rocket scientists and nuclear reactor designers BTW). My methods were well checked and verified sound by well qualified persons besides myself (I made an A in Strength of Materials). Welding is not a simple answer. The steel alloy of the accumulators is not standard, and getting a crack resistant weld joint to 'strut valves' is next to impossible without preheating the accumulator to 450F min. The piston rings ( unique double O-ring bands) melt at a much lower temp than that--so to weld, one has to cool the piston by?. Oh, BTW, you have to use an exquisitly costly weld metal, a very costly high frequency TIG setup, and a welder 'certified' in this particular weld to stand a reasonable chance. Even then, weld cracking probability unacceptably high. Quick and dirty might work,or might not. Me, I sleep well at night knowing I did my best,consulted the real materials and fabrication experts for advice, recomendations, assistance. Have had a few 'leakers' on post recharge Q/A(>1,<10), 3 developed slow leaks in customer service (and were promptly replaced under warranty)

Thanks TexasI ended up using the 5000 psi aircraft valve and went with 1000 psi of Nitrogen. The Engineer that did the job pressure tested them and they held the 1000 psi for 24 hours. We didn't do any welding as we did have concerns about "weld cracking" and after drilling the hole found there was plenty of metal to accept the valve thread (he used a "ROLL THREAD" for added strength). After drilling the hole I sprayed brake cleaner in and then got a small telescopic magnet in there to pick up any bits of metal I might have missed. Anyhow, the Q is Active again. Only problem is the active controller has gone dead and the Q is sitting pretty high. Also it does not rise and settle when I start up and switch off. Guess this will sort itself out when I get the controller working again.Thanks again for your helpAussie[IMG][/IMG]

Texasoil: Can you give us the OEM Accumulator pressure?

G'Day PoorManI'm just guessing at the accum pressure 'cause the FSM talks about 1422 PSI (High) and 668 PSI (low) when testing the hydraulic side of the ACTSUS. I am assuming that the system can handel an Accum pressure with- in that range without doing too much damage

Havn't heard from BlumtSmoker or Scott Jackson for a while now. I think they were well advanced with their DIY Accum recharge project. Be nice to know how they are getting on, and what pressure they went with.Regards Aussie

BluntSmoker wrote:Maxnix

Once again, your comments are uninformed, unintelligible and uneducated.

So now we know you don't speak English as your first language!

TexasOil will not disclose any propritary information developed for and during the Q45a accumulator recharging invention. Nissan does not disclose either.

Please no mudslinging guys!!

texasoil wrote:TexasOil will not disclose any propritary information developed for and during the Q45a accumulator recharging invention. Nissan does not disclose either.

they don't disclose the pressure?

PoorManQ45 wrote:they don't disclose the pressure?

We have some people that catch on quick here!

Now let me get this straight, basically its OK to call someone an idiot, but its a no no to suggest that someone might be asking to high a price for something, yes?

Ok then, can someone go out and buy an accumulator system for the Q45 and then compress the pistons. Measure the amount of force it takes to to compress it from the initial volume to something smaller. This will give you a compression ratio, xxx:1. Take that and multiply it by the force that it took to compress it that much and that'll give you the internal pressure.

I think I missed a step, but you get the idea, right?

The accumulator pressures for the different services are different (of course). One has to consider the absorb/rebound ratio for the strut units, factoring in the valving of the strut piston valve. Then there is the base operating pressure range that changes with car weight (empty/full), fluid viscosity changes with temp, etc. This is just for the strut accumulators. Not a trivial undertaking to find out what works best (equals OEM) IF someone wants to supply me a brand new OEM accumulator, for $500 I will build a test jig and precisely determine the original charge pressure of the strut accumulators furnished and post it (but did it leak down in sitting on the shelf for how long? that's why mine are fresh on shipment) --remember front and rear are different--

Now--for the other accumulators its a little more complicated. One can 'tune' the pressures to provide optimum response for different road conditions--but what are those road conditions and what car weight?--how many undulations/holes/bumps of what magnitude at what frequency? and what engine RPM so pump can 'make-up' how much fluid in what time? One can do a lot of calculations and get vastly different 'optimum' accumulator pressures with different assumptions--and unless you have the Bode and Nyquist diagrams of the entire control system frequency response--you are shooting in the dark. Takes a good dynamic simulation or multi-million $/data collection/analysis system test bed to sweep through the millions of possible combinations of pump accumulator, front & rear accumulators,valve accums and strut accum pressures to re-engineer the OEM values. Burned a lot of CPU days on some really powerful workstations nights and weekends with some real complicated dynamic simulation software to look at the system response characteristics. You guys know from experience what happens when the pressures decay--but what happens if you overcharge one or more accumulators--does the system go unstable (yes it can and will toss the car around real nastily and 'fail-safe' circuitry will shut it off.) You screw around with sophisticated control systems like this and YOU are the test driver/guinea-pig. It's not just adding nitrogen to a pressure vessel (complicated enough to develop a valve installation/closure method that is safe, reliable and leaktight.) It's what happens if you guess wrong and things start to come apart.

Check out your car insurance exclusions and life insurance exclusion sections carefully--most will not cover you.