yo sultan is that a rockford punch amp i see on the side? my friend gave me his punch 225.2 but i neva got a chance to use it.rex can you gimme some specific phoenix gold amps to look for, somethin with like 1000W max?im kinda skeptical on buyin electronics on ebay, are there any trusty sellers out there?

I used to have a PG QX amp powering my JL subs and another QX for my components. both were bulletproof and that was just teh low end of the line for PG. If you can find a PG Ti series amp that will keep going and going for years to come!

When i had my corolla i bought 2 10" la subs 300 watts and a la 550 amp. It sounded great in my corolla but then my car got totaled. Im guessing this wont be enough watts to have some good sound in the Q?

revil86 wrote:rex can you gimme some specific phoenix gold amps to look for, somethin with like 1000W max?im kinda skeptical on buyin electronics on ebay, are there any trusty sellers out there?

I suggest the MS, MPS and M line amps, you can find some specs here, http://www.phoenixgold.com/webfaq/index.htm. Don't be discouraged if they don't seem to have 1000 watt output. These are brute amps.

I'm with you as well, but I relying on my skeptical eye and research. Like what and who they sold things to in the past.

an update on my system:i went to circuit city and bought this chep Verge amp, its like 220 watts and 4-channelsthat thing makes my sub POUND, no joke, its powering one 10" sub and 2 4" tweeters.i highly recommend it for anyone with a small system.

Um... Did you say 4 inch tweeter? I hope not. That'd have a first break-up mode around 15Khz, which would severely limit its upper frequency range. It's probably a midrange.

Anyway, sinse you mentioned Verge. Check out the 12in Verge Sub that Circuit City carries. IT's like $15 and it is pretty nice for that price. I mean, it won't knock your socks off or anything, but it will definately add some bass.

I have one 10" sub powered by 2 channel/bridged Rockford Fosgate amp in the trunk. I also have a Sony Xplod CD/MP3 player and 4 Kenwood speakers in the stock locations powered by a Sony 4 channel amp. Two 6x9s in the deck & two 6" rounds in the door. My system screams and is heard for at least a block. Even with the windows down & roof open on the freeway it is like a concert. The sub gives even the front passengers a massage through their seats. The Sony head unit has a separate subwoofer control on it for bass. Great feature. I didn't remove anything from the trunk. Buy quality components and you shall hear what you want to hear. I had to make custom speaker brackets for the front speakers to mount in. Worth it! Please excuse the wiring mess as I have not cleaned up the wiring yet.

cheap subs rock! those old vr3 subs wal-mart used to carry were pimp! got 2 on clearance for like 12-15 each. put em in when i really wanted a headache. blew one of em for fun with test tones. still wish i didnt have to sell all my old setup

Mark86T wrote:

Hehe, my mount pwns yours

Those are just some cheap 6x9s that I had on hand. I'll be putting a pair of Infinty Reference up there in a little bit.

Oh, I found something out yesterday. The Bose amplifiers have more power then most aftermarket amplifiers do, even at 4Ohms. I'm currently using only the two back amplifiers(fronts are bad) wired in parallel to the front and back speakers.

PoorManQ45 wrote:Hehe, my mount pwns yours

Those are just some cheap 6x9s that I had on hand. I'll be putting a pair of Infinty Reference up there in a little bit.

Oh, I found something out yesterday. The Bose amplifiers have more power then most aftermarket amplifiers do, even at 4Ohms. I'm currently using only the two back amplifiers(fronts are bad) wired in parallel to the front and back speakers.

So you're running the front and rear speakers on each side (4ohm each, wired for a 2 ohm load) off each rear Bose amp (supposedly designed to run 1-ish ohm), I think you're simply seeing the benefit of "newer" coaxial speakers.

My 2 cents.

If anyone is interested in buying my subs, amp, and cap I need to get rid of it. The subs are Audiobahn Alum12Q's 1000 watts RMS each and they are built in boxes that fit snugly into each side of the trunk. The amp is a JBL 1200.1. It is currently running at 1.5 ohm's and is estimated to putting out over 4000 watts max power. It has its own box with a plexiglas top with 2 5" fans keeping it cool. There is also a 5 farad cap mounted to the top of that box. Email me if you are interested at [email protected]

You should really post that up in the BST section, you may even get some lowballers ... I mean takers .

Do you have a ball park?

Here's a pic of Audiobahn Alum12Q's

Pics of the real things will help, and shipping's gonna hurt .

Rex wrote:
So you're running the front and rear speakers on each side (4ohm each, wired for a 2 ohm load) off each rear Bose amp (supposedly designed to run 1-ish ohm), I think you're simply seeing the benefit of "newer" coaxial speakers.

My 2 cents.

Partially, but I tested the speakers with an Aftermarket HU, the one I was hooking up the other day. Even though it had an adjustable equalizer in it, it seemed that the Bose HU/amp combo gave a nice "smooth" sound while still getting loud.

PoorManQ45 wrote:Partially, but I tested the speakers with an Aftermarket HU, the one I was hooking up the other day. Even though it had an adjustable equalizer in it, it seemed that the Bose HU/amp combo gave a nice "smooth" sound while still getting loud.

The Bose amps are eq'ed for the car they were designed to be used in. So, it's not like it's a flat signal, compared against an eq'ed signal.

I'm not really surprised they sound good.

i guess you could say that "tweeters" isnt the right word to describe the speakers i put in, but it doesnt matter anymore cause im plannin on putting in 6 1/2" pioneers in the door if i can make them fit.

i think some 6 1/2" mid-bass drivers would be better to put in the front doorsi was thinking of kickers of audiobahnsdoes anyone know if they will fit? my Q still has the BOSE pod and stuff in the door

6.5s will fit in the Q, but you will have to make a custom mount that moves them about an inch away from the glass. Otherwise they will interfere.

I recommend NOT going with audiobahn as their equipment is extremely overrated

I'd recommend a set of Boston Acoustic components. You can get a 6.5in set for ~$150.

I definately agree with using mid's. I would go with flush mount tweeters on the doors aimed towards the cabin. With 4" mids in the doors. Then Kicker 6 X 9 in the back. Go with 10" L5 Kicker woofers with a sealed box with a port in the middle. Get a nice 1000+ Watt amp to push them.

pito11213 wrote:I definately agree with using mid's. I would go with flush mount tweeters on the doors aimed towards the cabin. With 4" mids in the doors. Then Kicker 6 X 9 in the back. Go with 10" L5 Kicker woofers with a sealed box with a port in the middle. Get a nice 1000+ Watt amp to push them.

ANgel, leave this area to me. If we need help getting women I'll come to you, mkay

I would NOT recommend the use of 4in drivers in the front doors. That's a waste. It'd make much more sense to mount a 6.5, or even a 5.5, in each door with a tweeter close to it(to prevent lobing).

A 4in driver generally can't play below 100hz with decent output. This is smack dab in the middle of the mid-bass range which is the second most important par tof the frequency range, next to the midrange. Whereas a 6.5in driver can play down to ~40hz with a descent output, although they should be crossed over to a sub at around 80hz. I say 80hz because this is the frequency that was found to be completely (whats the would for when you can't decern where something is coming from?). So your front speakers should be able to play atleast down to 80hz, preferably 50~60hz.

My suggestion on a hi fi system in the Q is “keep the ORIGINAL system in tip top shape” or change the WHOLE system completely.

On the topic of sub positioning I would suggest firing towards the rear with the box against the back seat.It is what most everyone in the car audio world believes. There are plenty of alternatives such as IB INFINITE BAFFLE which is very cool but as I said before I would change EVERYTHING. As far as what type/brand of equipment that’s soooo up for debate it would need to be a completely different thread. I would DEFINITELY stay away from Audiobahn. I rate install, location, application, acoustic prep, and tuning above that. Equipment does not make a great system, application does. Undoubtedly speakers especially “front stage” and how they're mounted, angled, in what type of enclosure, with what type of acoustic damping and etc is the number one priority. Amps take a distant second, if not third or fourth place. Add the Head Unit, sub(s), processor etc.

boston acoustics sound nicemy friend has a 300 with the boston acoustics premium sound and its super niceso where can i get those speakers for around $150?

My Infinity 1210 is positioned the same as Wes has his sub. Seems to be the best response for my particular sub and ****ty-*** box. I would also vote against Audiobahn, I've NEVER liked their stuff. I've been an Infinity fan for a LONG time, and somehow they're even more charming when you're putting them in an Infiniti. ;-)

ddrumman wrote:On the topic of sub positioning I would suggest firing towards the rear with the box against the back seat.It is what most everyone in the car audio world believes. There are plenty of alternatives such as IB INFINITE BAFFLE which is very cool but as I said before I would change EVERYTHING.

That's because people in the car world are idiots. Facing the subwoofer towards the rear(trunk lid) causes phase cancellation at the 1/4 and 1/2 wavelength. This causes the sound output, and quality to an extent, to decrease. If you'll notice, bass output will INCREASE with the trunk open in the mounting position you suggested. This is due to the decreased cancellation.

The proper way to orient the sub is facing the cabin, with as little space behind the enclosure as possible to prevent the back wave from causing cancellation. Also, custom molded enclosures have the natural ability to defer cancellation due to the fact that there is NO space behind them for back wave reflection.

There is technically only one way to create an IB enclosure in a car, and that is to vent the back(or front if that's how you want it) outside of the vehicle. You can get close to IB sound by mounting a sub in the rear deck, AND completely sealing the passenger compartment from the trunk(there are a few holes). I don't recall the volume of the Q's trunk, but it'll cause most drivers to act like they're in an IB setup.

ddrumman wrote:Equipment does not make a great system, application does. Undoubtedly speakers especially “front stage” and how they're mounted, angled, in what type of enclosure, with what type of acoustic damping and etc is the number one priority. Amps take a distant second, if not third or fourth place. Add the Head Unit, sub(s), processor etc.

I agree, except for the amplifier portion. I actually think that the amplifier should be one of the last things chosen, right before a subwoofer and then lastly comes cables.. The reason for this is that it has been proven that amplifiers do NOT alter the sound(unless they have internal eq's, but then they suck). You just need a decent amplifier, that can actually produce the power that it claims, preferable with less then 0.1% THD.

I feel that the HU is the MOST important part because this is where all the signals/sound originates from. If you have a crappy preamplifier even the best speakers will not sound good.

Then comes the actual speakers(this includes proper installation). WEll this part should be obvious due to the fact that this is how the electrical signal is converted into mechanical motion to allow you to hear anything. Of course it is imperitive that the speakers be installed and setup properly.

Then I'm going to say any modifying electronics, such as an EQ should be chosen next if you're including one in the install. Basically if you skimp on the EQ you're screwing your entire system up. Just look at what happened to greg. His EQ failed(cause unknown, I'm not saying it's cheap greg). With a higher quality EQ that would not have occured. I personally would choose an equalizer designed for home use due to the manditory tighter tolerances. I'd mount it in the trunk.

Then comes the subwoofer if you're using one(this includes a properly designed and integrated enclosure). Well basically this is where you get your extra low end kick. Now, you should understand that the sound quality doesn't have to be that great with a sub due to the fact that we can't hear up to 7.5% THD below 50hz. For this part you have a few options due to the requirement of an enclosure to seperate(and add to in some cases) the back wave from the front wave. Choices would be: *edited* I typed out the types of enclosures, but I took it out. If you'd like to see it just ask.

Then comes the amplifier fro the reasons I stated above.

Then finally comes the cables. Even though these will be carrying all the signals, they are not too important. Just about any kind of speaker wire will do, of adequate size of course. RCAs are a little more important, but still, any RCA cables that are sheilding will do

PoorManQ45 wrote:Now, you should understand that the sound quality doesn't have to be that great with a sub due to the fact that we can't hear up to 7.5% THD below 50hz.

Not true. The average human can detect somewhere around 30hz or so, some as low as 10-20. I was somewhere around 25hz before I started DJing, and around 35 or so after six years of mobile work. ;-)

haha, you might want to re-read what I said.

I said you can't detect up to 7.5% total harmonic distortion below 50hz. I know that you can hear below 50hz, usually down to 20hz.

*edit* ALso, thanks for actually reading what I wrote. Most people just skip over it

Ok P now you are typing like a seasoned niconaut when their "subject" is being spoken about. Let's talk about real world systems.

1. Replace HU with. (Not Sony or pioneer)

2. Replace all cabin speaker and use a good 4 channel amp to push them.

3. Maybe 4" mids are to small for the Q I would agree. I also meant to say 6.5 as that is what I saw in the store. (Good work P)

4. Two subs - Different tastes though. I prefer Kicker solo baric L5.

5. 1000+ Watt amps for the subs.

6. Capacitor for bass

7. Digital EQ - Just my preference. With seperate channels with a remote gain at the drivers seat.

8. Lets not forget Kicker flush mount tweeters.

How does that sound? Besides expensive. By the way I know I could get all the parts listed above with a box for $1100.

PoorManQ45 wrote:haha, you might want to re-read what I said.

I said you can't detect up to 7.5% total harmonic distortion below 50hz. I know that you can hear below 50hz, usually down to 20hz.

*edit* ALso, thanks for actually reading what I wrote. Most people just skip over it

Whoops, right you are. As to reading what you write - I'm kind of an audiophile. Comes with the territory.

Just for kicks, my mostly ideal (but still mostly reasonable) system for a Q:

Headunit: Kenwood X-789 Excelon ($300)Equalizer: Pioneer DEQ-7600 DSP Equalizer ($299)Speakers: Infinity Perfect 6.1 6 1/2" Component System ($320)Amplifier for Speakers: Infinity Reference 7541a 111W RMS x 4 ($255)Subwoofers: One Infinity Perfect 12.1D ($155) and one Infinity Perfect 10.1D ($130)Amplifiers for Subwoofers: Two Infinity Reference 611a 456W RMS x 1 ($600)

Total of something around $2,100 for all the parts. Good boxes will set you back another $200 or so, unless you fab your own, or get a custom install job. (Which I'm seriously considering right now - time is worth more than money).

The Infinity component set was rated above both the Kicker SS56.2 and MB Quart PCE 216 by Crutchfield. Not bad for a set that's less than half the cost of the Kickers.

Reasoning for the Infinity Perfect subs as opposed to some more popular JL models is simply the cost factor. I've never felt the JLs sounded better enough than Infinity Kappas to be worth the price jump, much lease Perfects. Reasoning for one 10 and one 12 is simply to cover more range.

pito11213 wrote:1. Replace HU with. (Not Sony or pioneer)

2. Replace all cabin speaker and use a good 4 channel amp to push them.

3. Maybe 4" mids are to small for the Q I would agree. I also meant to say 6.5 as that is what I saw in the store. (Good work P)

4. Two subs - Different tastes though. I prefer Kicker solo baric L5.

5. 1000+ Watt amps for the subs.

6. Capacitor for bass

7. Digital EQ - Just my preference. With seperate channels with a remote gain at the drivers seat.

8. Lets not forget Kicker flush mount tweeters.

How does that sound? Besides expensive. By the way I know I could get all the parts listed above with a box for $1100.

Everything seems about right, except for you forgot one thing. An upgraded alternator. I personally would go with an upgraded alternator before getting a cap and/or second battery.

7: I always recommend going with a full digital EQ when you're going to use one. The signal is generally much better.

5: Don't bass your decision purely on power output. If you get a high efficiency driver, Infinity Kappa and cerwin vega come to mind, you don't need alot of power to make them play loud.

nchopp wrote:Reasoning for the Infinity Perfect subs as opposed to some more popular JL models is simply the cost factor. I've never felt the JLs sounded better enough than Infinity Kappas to be worth the price jump, much lease Perfects. Reasoning for one 10 and one 12 is simply to cover more range.

Yep, I would recommend using the 10 for mid bass(60hz~200hz), on the low end cross it over to the 12in(tuned down to ~25hz), and on th ehigh end cross it over to the mains.

so about what PMQ said about aiming the sub box, where would be a good place to put a sealed box in the trunk? its about 12.5" tall and like 33" wide

Q45, right? You can butt that right up against the back of the trunk, by where it latches.

What year is your car? I may have a perfect solution for you