Q45 MAF: OEM vs Aftermarket

[tfvesquire]

Ok, with the assistance of some members on this forum, I have narrowed my intermittent stalling and idle swings to the MAF. I thought about swappingmine out for a used one from a 2000-01 Q45 with low miles, but with my car having such low miles and the sensor apparently starting to die, am I just gamb|ing with a used OEM unit? I looked into reman OEM units that sell for about $300 locally so I don't want to go that route since I paid $375 for my whole replacement engine.

I found a few brand new MAF units on Ebay selling for only $50 shipped with no core needed made by Standard. Has anyone tried these and had good or bad results? Do they die out sooner than OEM units due to cheaper materials and wiring circuits? If someone on here has tried one or knows of someone who tried one with lasting results, please post here. Otherwise, I will just end up buying a used on a taking my chances. My car is getting worse by the day.

Thanks,

Ted, Chicago

[OwnerCS]

Does the Standard Motor Products for sale on Ebay comew with a warranty? I've found yes. I've had no issues with Standard Motor Products (a.k.a BWD) Nissan knock sensors and I've had no issues with BWD injectors. Standard Motor Products products usually cost more than some other brands. If it is truly a SMP part, for $50 how can you go wrong?

Here are some questions I think about when using aftermarket parts:

1) Is the part easy to change? - should the part fail will replacement take more than an hour of my time.

2) If the part fails will it leave me stranded?

3) Can I determine if the part is working properly as soon as it is installed? If yes, return it for refund.

4) Will the part damage a more expensive component (like the ECU) if it fails?

5) Is the part supplier ISO9001 certified and require certification for its material suppliers?

6) Does the part supplier provide parts to new car manufacturers?

http://www.smpcorp.com/

http://www.smpcorp.com/Quality%20Docume ... Manual.pdf

[Brew Q]

Looks like a lot of MAF's for the 4.1's are on the less expensive end ($30-60)... the VH45 MAF's start around $80 new!

CRC also makes MAF cleaner - its about $6 or $7 a can. You can try that on the sensor and some dielectric grease on the connections first. Just an idear.

[tfvesquire]

Looks like a lot of MAF's for the 4.1's are on the less expensive end ($30-60)... the VH45 MAF's start around $80 new!

CRC also makes MAF cleaner - its about $6 or $7 a can. You can try that on the sensor and some dielectric grease on the connections first. Just an idear.

**************

Already cleaned the filiment and screen using CRC and checked the pins for corrosion and/or loose connections. Nothing was found using the throttle body cleaner "spray for vacuum leaks" technique or wiggling the wiring harness to check for any hiccups. I guess I will order the brand spanking new Standard unit and hope for the best. I tried to rule out my MAF was bad by unplugging it while the engine was running, but several members have informed me that is no gaurantee the sensor is bad. I am not an electrical guru nor do I have the proper testing equipment to check output levels and ohms, etc.

I will post whether I get a used one or brand new aftermarket one and my results.

Thanks,

Ted

[tfvesquire]

Ok, after doing some more research and not being able to confirm some of the information on the aftermarket MAF units being sold on Ebay, etc. I located a used MAF from a 2001 Q45 and decided to try it out. The price was $70 with no core. The guy said there is a 6 month warranty on the part, but no refund, just an exchange for another sensor. Installed it late Thursday and drove the car to the train with no hiccups or idle swings. After work, I ran some errands with my boys for a few hours. After about 40 miles of driving, I did not have one issue with the idle or stalling. I think the problem was solved. I will update after a few months to let members know if the fix was long term or short lived.

BTW, the MAF supposedly came from a vehicle that had 95k miles on it, but I believe it has to do with how the original can is maintained and driven, not necessarily the mileage. I'm sure there are plenty of 97-01 Qs out there with the original MAFs with well over 250k miles on them.

Thanks to everyone who helped on this.

Ted

[Q451990]

Sometimes it's just the "luck of the draw" with parts... Either way it sounds like you fixed it!

Heath

[paranoidjack]

I have one of those $30 maf's from ebay I need to put in. Repaired the soldering on my factory one but wore out, going to change out and will let you guys know how I make out. Think it will be fine.

[OwnerCS]

I keep a spare MAF (from a salvage yard) in the garage workshop in the event mine should start failing. The trick is to install and test as soon as you buy one so it can be returned under warranty. I'm starting to see Y33s in the yards now. Few G50s are left around here to provide salvage parts. I have no way to test a Y33 MAF to take advantage of any deals that might come up.

[db_autotek]

This could help someone searching later: I just faced this decision a couple weeks ago for my G50, it was finally time to replace my original MAF to resolve some rough idle and stalling. CRC cleaner just wasn't doing it. I decided to get a new aftermarket part, because I was afraid to replace it with another 20 year old oem part, and there are no junked donors nearby. So on ebay I found plenty of options which ebay said would fit my car... not trusting their part filter, I wrote down my 1994 Q45 MAF part number right off the unit itself. 22680-61U00. Found a good looking unit manufactured by AIP Electronics, never heard of them, but it is of very high quality. $88.95 shipped. Link: http://r.ebay.com/umYDVD. If the link dies, just search for your part number or look for AIP Electronics. I rehosted these pics so they won't die:

I also got a new connector, since I destroyed the old one: SMP/STANDARD S-745 Mass Air Flow Sensor Connector http://r.ebay.com/aE57um $14.36 shipped! Figuring out which wire is which is easy if you are careful while replacing your existing one. NOTE: you have to pull out the blue thingie, and really press hard as heck to get it on!

Done in 30 mins, with using heat shrink and wire loom to protect the replaced wires! No more shuddering, rough idle, or stalling!