Q45 FGY33 Steering Rack Replacement

[tfvesquire]

Hi All. It's been awhile since I posted anything, but my next project on my 98 Q is to replace the steering rack that I have put bandaids on for the last few years. It continues to leak and there is too much play to try and rebuild it. I have already purchased a replacement rack to be ready for my early spring project. to try and stop the fluid leak out of each boot end, I put some of that Lucas stop leak crap in there and ended up blowing a hole in the rubber return line on a frigid cold evening. **Word to the wise, don't put too much of any stop leak or you run the same risk. Luckily, mine blew out while the car was idling in the driveway, but I have a huge fluid spill that I was not able to clean up due to the weather. My driveway needs to be powerwashed with degreaser and hot water so hopefully I can do that this weekend (should be 45-50 degrees).

It was b**** to remove and replace the rubber return hose portion while the rack was still in the car, but I know it will be a breeze once the rack is removed. I fabricated a temporary hose using power steering hose sections and heat treated elbow sections to make the necessary bends. I am ordering the factory hose section for about $25 to have it ready to go once I replace the rack. One question I have is when I go to remove the original rack, do I have to also lossen and/or remove the steering shaft to undo the universal "rag" joint or is there enough play once the two steering rack bushings and clamps are removed to pull the rack out.

I assume once the old rack has been removed, I can line up the new rack position with the old one within a few teeth so that it can be aligned properly. Is there a trick to that as well? I was just planning on laying them both on the ground and turning the gear on the replacement rack left or right until the inner tie rods line up (the outers could be totally off depending on each car's alignment, who performed the alignemnt, etc.) the inners should be the same form car to car.

Amy info or advise would be great. Just turned 105K on the odo and still going strong.

Happy new year,

Ted

[lamsv]

I don't have any advice, but am about to tackle the same task in the next few weeks. What I thought was bad out tie rods ended up being a bad steering rack.

I had the same questions as you did, regarding lining up the teeth. And, I'm hoping there is enough play to remove the rack once the rack clamps are removed. I think their will be. When I replaced the rack bushings a few months ago, I was able to get a lot of play in the rack itself (which should have thrown a red flag).

Hopefully somebody can chime in with some advice. Otherwise, I will let you know how it goes.

Also. Where did you find the return hose for $25? I might as well replace that while I have the rack off the car.

[NickY33]

tfvesquire: if i am not mistaken, i think i bought the passengers side fender you were selling a while back, i have the black 97 q45....

[HooverSA]

Have you already changed it? I actually rebuilt mine and reinstalled it etc etc myself. The main piece of advice I could give you is put your rack in, DO NOT CONNECT YOUR STEERING KNUCKLE and put your tires on. If you can get your tires near centered, center your steering wheel (which will free spin in either direction) and THEN connect your steering knuckle and do an "ghetto alignment test" with a tape measure from one tire to the other side (make sure you do the same tread line on the front as you do the back.) If you do it right then if it is turned one way or the other one measurement will be less than or grater than the other. Here is a helpful video as a rough example. http://youtu.be/wBrzXeJnYiQ Push the wheels by hand in the direction needed to make them equal the same. Once you do that, look at your steering wheel and see how off center it is. If it is straight, tighten the bolt down on the knuckle, if not then remove the knuckle leaving the rack alone, turn your steering wheel till it is straight and reconnect it and tighten the bolt. Once you are done it should be CLOSE to straight. You will need a real alignment right after this... I speak from trial and error, I promise you! If you have any questions, just ask. I learned how to do this WITHOUT the manual, then read the manual when I got stuck. Good luck!!!

_Andy_