Q45 excess latteral roll - FIXED! Next?

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fasride
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 10:33 am
Car: Sports car racing

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Hi guys,

My '94 Q45 was the one that had the excessive latteral roll. I bought the car with 47,000 miles on it from a private party a few weeks ago. I asked for help and many of you suggested cures.

It has been at the dealer in San Antonio for several weeks. It was put on a frame machine and they discovered several bent suspension parts. They have been replaced and I am picking up the car early Friday. The Infiniti shop manager assures me that the car drives properly now.

So far they have replaced front and rear shocks (OEM), upper links, axle cradle mount, and a couple of other suspension parts that I am not familiar with.

I have had almost no time to enjoy the car and I am looking forward to getting it back. The trip to the dealer was costly, but I am glad I stuck it out and didn't send it to auction.

I need to start the maintenance process and consider some performance upgrades.

I will add the transmission cooler, flush the transmission (Mobile one ATF) flush the radiator, replace belts, and replace differential fluid with synthetic fluid.

It has been suggested that I add a rear sway bar and strut tower brace.

Any othr suggestions at this point?

Thanks again to all that responded.

JerryAlice, TX


DougQ45
Posts: 195
Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Car: Q45, porsche 928 S 5 speed

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Jerry: After the transmission is flushed, have the pan dropped, and a new filter installed. The filters are very fine and with 47,000 miles its a good idea. Much has been written about this, and Jerry Tucker (San Diego) reportedly will not do anymore transmission flushes without also doing a pan drop and filter change.

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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You maywant to acquire some of the BG products while you are there as there is a dealer there who sells on the web.

Ryno Performance Products - 9823 Fredericksburg Rd. - San Antonio, TX 78240Phone 210-697-9600 / Toll Free 1-888-843-8442 / Fax 210-696-7506

I'll bet he even knows where some flush/fluid exchange machines are located.

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PalmerWMD
Posts: 14329
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 3:14 pm
Car: 2004 350Z

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Congratualations!!

I am glad it worked out in the end.Yes you spent some money but you probably got a good deal on the car and having so many new suspension components is worth something in and of itself.

We were keeping our fingers crossed.

Fred...:thumbup

fasride
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 10:33 am
Car: Sports car racing

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Thanks Fred!

It is amazing to me how many people responded to my problem. All were appreciated!!

I still haven't driven the car since the repairs were made, but the dealership has assured me that my car handles fine now. We are picking it up Friday morning.

Of the maintenance things I need to do, what is the most important? In what order?

Of the performance and handleing mods., which is the best bang for the buck?

Add rear sway barAdd shock tower braceClean throttle body & plentumOthers?

Since my use of the car will be mostly highway travel, I would rather not stress the motor or transmission by chipping it. I would like to get 150,000 to 200,000 miles from this car.

New development! Dealer called and said that brake light came on while testing vehicle after making suspension repairs. Dealer said I needed a new alternator. Somehow the brake lights are tied to the alternator. The alternator is producing 11.9 volts. I know it needs to be 13 to 14 volts. It had a new alternator installed a little over a year ago by Houston dealer so is not in warranty. So question: Is aftermarket alternator a good alternative? (dealer wants $432 for new alternator, not installed). Or do I need to stick with OEM alternator?

Thanks in advance for suggestions!

Jerry SmithAlice, TX94 Q with 47,000 miles, no mods.

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PalmerWMD
Posts: 14329
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 3:14 pm
Car: 2004 350Z

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Aftermarket alternators are often poor in comparison to OEM alternators, according to our members in the field.

It kinda surprises me that the dealer OEM failed in only 1 year.I guess with what u mentioned, the diagnosis is pretty firm.Still I wonder if there are any contributing factors.

Fred...:)

DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Agreed! A factory alternator should last much longer than that. And much longer than 47k. It is a DIY job if you can spend the time, and the factory part from Scottsdale is (I think) a couple hundred bucks cheaper. See this thread:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....=2023Ask them if the cost includes the core charge, and ask them why they think a relatively new factory part failed in such a short time period.150-200k will not be a problem if you take care of the car, as many on these boards can attest to. IMO a chipped Q will get over the 200k mark. The chip only makes a difference at WOT, if I remember right.

911/Q45
Posts: 1376
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:10 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
1996 Porsche Turbo

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You can skip the shock tower brace, I got mine because it was cheap, easy to install and looks sexy under the hood. Very little functionality though. Rear sway bar was great bang for the buck. I'd be surprised if your throttle body and plenum were dirty at 47K, I had mine open to replace under plenum hoses and it was clean at 55K.

fasride
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 10:33 am
Car: Sports car racing

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I had sort of figured that the Shock tower braces wouldn't do much except in severe cornering, which I don't plan to do. Thanks for the tip!

What hoses do I need to replace on a 94 Q with 47,000K? I plan to replace the radiator hoses while doing the flush.

I noticed a "by-pass hose kit" offered by Scottsdale Infiniti. Should I replace these? How many hoses are there "under the plenum"? How about gaskets?

Thanks,

DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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The plenum hoses aren't something you should do until you have some other reason to get under there. Over time they will harden up until they become very brittle. They actually shatter if hit. I don't know how much is due to mileage (heat) and how much is due to age, but either way, they're probably OK unless they've been physically damaged while some other work was being done. The biggest reasons to remove the plenum are for cleaning, replacing the knock sensors/harness, and replacing injectors. There aren't many gaskets. One for the IAC, one for the throttle body, 8 for the plenum (included in hose kit), and metal ones under the plenum runners which I don't think need to be replaced. Am I missing any?

911/Q45
Posts: 1376
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:10 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
1996 Porsche Turbo

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Having just replaced the under plenum hoses, I can tell you exactly how many there are-a bazillion! I tackled that due to paranoia about a ruptured bypass hose in East Jesus. Due to the south TX heat and it's effect on rubber stuff, a prophilactic replacement of that stuff would be my recommendation. Dadealus waited until his started leaking, but LA is a lot more benign on rubber than TX. Your description of the car's usage(long remote highway drives) puts you at risk for the East Jesus stranding.

greg_atlanta
Posts: 1111
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)

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You might not want a rear sway bar (or strut tower brace) if you're doing a lot of highway driving. A bar will quicken the steering response for lane changes, but it also eliminates some of the float in the rear suspension, so if you're traveling on poor quality roads you'll appreciate the softer ride.

I'm glad I got a rear swap bar but I don't do many road trips these days.

fasride
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 10:33 am
Car: Sports car racing

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Latest......

I picked up my car in San Antonio this morning. Had a 125 mile trip back home. Alternator went completely out and lost all electrical power about 30 miles down the road. The dealer had told me the alternator was not charging but 11 volts and that I would need another one. I was going to save money and have one of our fleet mechanics replace it. So I bought the alternator and took it with me.

I called our San Antonio fleet mechanic and he came to my rescue, replacing the alternator on the side of the road.

We found out that you have to drop the AC compressor (including breaking the lines and releasing freon) to get the alternator off. So I didn't save a thing and took up most of the day getting home, BUT my car rides G-R-E-A-T!!!!!!!!!!!!

About $3,500 later, I finally know what a Q45 is supposed to ride like. I had trouble keeping it under 80, which felt like 70 and no motion sickness (I was just about out of Dramamine).

I guess I will hold off on the rear sway bar and shock tower brace for now. Will spend the rest of my budget on maintenance and aux. trans. cooler.

My $9,000 bargain has now cost me $3,500 plus $500 for tires so after pulling maintenance I will have about $13,500 to $14,500 in a 9 year old car.

I think it can still be considered a bargain considering a 100,000+ mile lifespan still left and it is a really nice comfortable car (sure wish it had good cup holders:)

I now need to know what hoses to replace when cleaning the throttle body and plentum. Will place order with Scotsdale Infiniti as soon as I get some input.

Thanks,

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Actual the front strut tower brace helps the feel/ride and dampens vibrations in much less than serious maneuvers.So much so that it is standard on the 97Q and later.The Japanese version Cima [97 Q41] has a serious rear strut bar also!

To avoid AC damage you need to replace the receiver dryer assuming you drove some time without a charge even though you vacuum the moisture out --- the dryer is toast inside---add another $100.......to trying to save dealer labor!

On a lift you don'y need to remove the compressor completely or release the charge.

DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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It is possible if tricky to replace the alternator without removing the compressor. Someone (sorry, can't remember who) had a great tip of supergluing the nutplate to the back of the flange through-hole. After unbolting it you have to rotate in place to clear the mounting flanges, and then pull it out enough to be able to disconnect the harness before removing it completely.Also, as Dennis alluded to you can unbolt the compressor and suspend it without unhooking the AC lines. I've done it both ways and I prefer having the extra clearance with the compressor shifted a little. The fourletterwordometer gets pegged with the compressor in the way. The drier is just over $70 from Scottsdale. Good idea, as moisture will mix with the other fluids (R-12 or oil, can't remember) and create an acid that will slowly destroy the compressor.

fasride
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 10:33 am
Car: Sports car racing

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Well I finally got to take my Q45 on a 500 mile road trip. The ride was great! No more latteral roll, just a fine ride.

I ordered a rear sway bar and all of the maintenance parts to do the throttle body and plenum, transmission, and radiator. will do the maintenance next week.

I do notice that the idle is a little rough at times and that there is sometimes some hesitation when the throttle is opened. Will the plenum cleaning help that problem?

Thanks for all of the help and advice that I have gotten from you guys on this forum.

I really do like my Q45 and am glad that I stuck it out and didn't give up on it!

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Glad you made the correct decision and are continuing the revival of your Q45. I am sure the rewards will be many as long as you don't cruise over 80 too often.

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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It is amazing that when owners return a Q to close to new condition [engine, transmission, or suspensionwise] that they are impressed.

When they put on oem equivalent tires [soft like what the 90-93 came with] they are blown away without any suspension mods.

A tweek here and there and the old Q out handles a 2002.......assuming you don't install too large tires/wheels to raise the unsprung weight.

The EXTRA front rear negative camber is the trick to make the tires stick under load.

greg_atlanta
Posts: 1111
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)

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Q45tech wrote:When they put on oem equivalent tires [soft like what the 90-93 came with] they are blown away without any suspension mods.


Agreed! That's why I've jumping up and down and screaming with joy about my sticky summer Yokohama AVS Intermediates.... but very few people actually try them!! :(

fasride
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 10:33 am
Car: Sports car racing

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Have now made two 600 mile trips. Had vibration in steering wheel. Had wheels (original 94's) balanced for a second time. Seemed fine for a few miles and vibration re-occured. A friend noticed that there were no weights on the front tires. He touched one of the weights on a rear tire and it fell off in his hands!!

Apparently the metal clip-on weights don't fit securely on my aluminum rims. We re-balanced and used tape-on weights and now my car is smooth and vibration free. I FINALLY know what it feels like to drive my Q45 as it is supposed to be.

I have received all of my maintenance parts from Infiniti Scottsdale and will start the process next week.

I now know what it takes to get a Q up to standards and I can say it is worth all of the hell I have been through to get to this point.

Thanks again for everyones input. I would have given up and sent this car to auction if it had not been for the positive comments I received. No kidding!!!!!

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Jerry,

Sounds like you went to a less than professional shop for the balance.

Look at the Hunter site and use the 9700 finder.

You can have them check your wheels for balance and trueness before they remount your tires, if you want to adhere to the church of Q45tech..

If too much soap lubricant is used to mount the tires, they will spin on acceleration (rears) or severe braking (fronts most likely, but possible on both). Have your tires marked in reference to the valve stems when remounted to monitor for rotation on the wheel(and thus generated imbalance).

Might as well have them crossed mounted also if you are having your wheels checked.

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Jerry,

Sounds like you went to a less than professional shop for the balance.

Look at the Hunter site and use the 9700 finder.

You can have them check your wheels for balance and trueness before they remount your tires, if you want to adhere to the church of Q45tech. Dennis insists on balancing in grams, not quarter ounces (~7.08 grams).

If too much soap lubricant is used to mount the tires, they will spin on acceleration (rears) or severe braking (fronts most likely, but possible on both). Have your tires marked in reference to the valve stems when remounted to monitor for rotation on the wheel (and thus rotationally generated imbalance) after you drive a few hundred miles or a few weeks.

Might as well also have them crossed mounted, if you are having your wheels checked, to balance out the inside wear caused by negative camber, especially if they are directional tires.

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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There are at least 6 different shaped clip on weights for different wheel designs............most shops carry 3 universal types.The absolute correct Nissan wheel clip on is not usually found except at Nissan dealers.Chroming of wheels means the Nissan clips ons won't work well, they are that precision made.

Tire balancing is an art on even oem wheels as the balance machine at turn on automatically sets itself to Coarse [round to 10 grams or 1/4 ounce [7 grams]..............I can promise you that if you dont see a trimmed weight or are getting a life time free balance, you may drive away worse than you came in!

I am hearing screams and howls from 17-18" new Nissan owners about how fast the tires wheels go out of balance and how the more performance suspensions allow the vibration to be transmitted to the body and steering wheel.They better learn to get 1,000 mile rebalances or live with it.

greg_atlanta
Posts: 1111
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)

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Q45tech wrote:I am hearing screams and howls from 17-18" new Nissan owners about how fast the tires wheels go out of balance and how the more performance suspensions allow the vibration to be transmitted to the body and steering wheel.They better learn to get 1,000 mile rebalances or live with it.


Is main cause of the problem having no machined lip for clip-on weights? (I'm assuming there's a machined lip on the inside of the rim, right?)

Or is it more related to tire/wheel size?

Funny how everyone drools over 18" wheels... until they own them for a while.

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Tires get out of balance when they change internally from stress, or move positions on the wheel [slip around the rim due to braking/acceleration forces].The sidewalls don't change much or as fast and the distance of the rim [where the weights go] vs the tread [say 15/26= 7.5/13~~0.58.....17/26=~~~0.65] means a heavier weight necessary the farther the weight is from the tread imbalance.

A round tire scrubs evenly around the tread but excessive camber wears the inside more than the outside so you must keep adding weight to replace the worn away rubber.

Since the larger tires are more rigid but not necessarily stronger [load index wise] the forces are transmitted to wheels which may bend and change vs say a 15" combo.Important to know which is causing the problem tires or wheels.

It was one thing when you had $130 tires on $400 rims now with $275 tires on $700 each rims.


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