A have a '91 Q45 which I recently invested a lot of $ by replacing the engine & transmission with used ones supposedly from Japan that are less than 60K. It runs great, but I still experience problems that my mechanic still can't figure out. Here are the problems:
1) Car shuts down, especially during cold mornings, and sometimes when I turn the steering wheel completely in one direction or another (also at initial startup). I suspect that this is because the car hasn't warmed up completely, but that's just a guess. It's not the battery or the alternator, since I had that checked. Finally, I got a lead from this one dealer mechanic that the problem is associated with the Idle Air Control Valve. Does this make sense? If so, how hard and how difficult is it to fix. This same mechanic informs me that it could cause 9 hours of billlable damage if I bring it to his dealership. His explanation is that, as part of the proper method of cleaning this thing, it also involves cleaning the internal components of the enginve before hooking it back again. What do you guys think?
2) Engine seems to vibrate upon stepping on the gas pedal before it actually takes off. Problem is not noticable on down hill slope since it just kicks into gear and takes off. On even ground takeoffs, it's barely noticable but the vibration is still present. On uphill climbs, the vibration is worst and most noticable since the engine vibration sometimes transfers into the steering column. It's not the MAF because I had tested that scenarios with my other known-good MAF spare. I don't believe it's the FPCU or the fuel pump either since both were recently replaced with new ones from the dealership less than 3 months ago. What do you guys suspect is the problem?
3) Cabin is sometimes suffocating with the smell of gasoline. This is most extreme when I add the Techron every six months. But even if I'm not adding Techron for the rest of the other months, it still smells bad sometimes. Imagine this...the smell is so suffocating that it won't even go away even with all down windows rolled down. Sometimes it's even worst with having only the front window rolled down because I think it pushes all the foul smell back to the rear passengers and it gets trap back there. I definitely don't want to drive like this anymore since it causes headaches smelling the thing during drives, especially to my wife and kid who's stuck sitting in the back seat. What could be causing these problems?
I almost had enough of this car! I thought I was making a good investment, but all it has given me is literally a bad, bad HEADACHE!
I'd appreciate any advice any of you guys can offer.
Q45 Engine Shutdown, Engine Vibration, Bad Cabin Fuel Smell
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
When you buy a Japanese take out engine [low miles does not mean low years of service], you end up spending more than the engine costs on rehabilitating things: chain guides, hoses, harnesses , injectors, gasket and seals, plugs, water pump, knock sensors, etc, etc. Resealing both valve covers and replacing front and rear main seals.
We buy engines for $1200 and usually end up replacing around $1300 - $2,000 in external parts and spending a day $800 in labor to get it ready to swap. Then the 25 hours of swap labor.
When you read 40,000 mile take out engines......think of that as in someways a 100,000 mile US engine because at 5,000 miles per year driving and idling all days in between......they can be very very used from years alone.
They have internal and external degreasing machines to make them look good to the untrained eye and spray them liberally with shiny silicone to make the brittle hoses and seals LOOK brand new.
Very few want to spend $5,000-$5,500 on a newish engine since even the 1995 are not worth than now.......in the age and condition where an engine swap would be required.
We buy engines for $1200 and usually end up replacing around $1300 - $2,000 in external parts and spending a day $800 in labor to get it ready to swap. Then the 25 hours of swap labor.
When you read 40,000 mile take out engines......think of that as in someways a 100,000 mile US engine because at 5,000 miles per year driving and idling all days in between......they can be very very used from years alone.
They have internal and external degreasing machines to make them look good to the untrained eye and spray them liberally with shiny silicone to make the brittle hoses and seals LOOK brand new.
Very few want to spend $5,000-$5,500 on a newish engine since even the 1995 are not worth than now.......in the age and condition where an engine swap would be required.