Q45 Crank but No Start

Post by **Smafugula** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 8:19 pm

Hey everyone,

1998 Q45 70k miles

I came here with the hopes yall could maybe point me in the right direction with this Q45 I recently bought. It was a family friends car, been sitting a while in the yard (maybe a year?) without being on the road. We jumped it and it started up immediately and idled great. I drive it a few houses down to our place and turn it off. Go to start it and it won't fire off.

I have replaced the fuel filter, the old filter wasn't clogged. I have gone through the fuses under the steering wheel and have gone through the ones under the hood, pass side. No dice everything looks good. What do yall recommend I look? I couldn't find a schrader valve to check the fuel pressure, I haven't been able to have a second person there to spin the key over while I try and listen for the fuel pump in tank if its coming on or not. Should I check relays? I think they are behind the fuse box after looking at some diagrams, I've tried to get that thing off but it was such a pain in the butt I ran out of time yesterday.

Any help on what I check next would be greatly appreciated!!!

Post by **macgiver** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 9:49 pm

RELAYS - find , check , replace ALL relays (or 1 at time) ALL relays in that START ckt , ya? 6 2 & even ...over & OUT !!

Post by **macgiver** » Wed Aug 02, 2023 1:31 am

breaker 19 , meant to limit replacement to relays eng ctrl if any , notwithstanding solely 'starter's ckt relay(s) , but ya ...compression - fuel - spark THE start as to where & what to look into . my bad .....'scuse me !

Post by **Smafugula** » Wed Aug 02, 2023 7:17 am

macgiver wrote: ↑
Wed Aug 02, 2023 1:31 am
breaker 19 , meant to limit replacement to relays eng ctrl if any , notwithstanding solely 'starter's ckt relay(s) , but ya ...compression - fuel - spark THE start as to where & what to look into . my bad .....'scuse me !

Sorry, trying to follow you. You are thinking it’s a relay?

Post by **macgiver** » Wed Aug 02, 2023 11:40 am

Possibly , I've probably put too much weight in into ALL relays pertaining to starter function including ones SOLELY for the starter . Now I realize the spotlight shall be concentrated more on the ECM ckts (any relays ?) that may be for the classic "compression - fuel - spark " perspective , i'm realizing now I am wrong to have had heavier focus on things within the realm of starter itself .Starter IS turning - WELL ?...... then , my bad............................scuse me .

p.s. forgive me if I'm still vague ....................I keep my keyboard silent ? next time ..ya?

Post by **fontana dan** » Thu Aug 03, 2023 5:41 pm

Are you dealing with a crank no start or a no-crank? Do you have a scanner to check for codes? Why was the car parked?
If you think fuel pump is not turning on you can access it very easily in the trunk. Put your hand on it while someone turns the key. You can test fuel pressure at the rubber hose going to the rail in engine bay or the fuel filter under rear passenger door.
Next you want check for spark
What is the aim in replacing all of the relays?

Post by **macgiver** » Thu Aug 03, 2023 9:49 pm

Yes yes and.........................yes and I'm out o' this one y'all forget everything I've said - probly best....ya ?

p.s. scuse me............................................so sorry

Post by **98_Q45** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 12:22 am

Not to mention the obvious but: are the battery cables tighten enough?

Of course whether it’s cranking at all or just doing nothing is important…if cranking and not doing any starting, could be flooded with fuel.

Having an older car, even with just 70,000 miles just sit for a year can cause oil, fuel and coolant to leak within the first 2-3 days leading to problems. Driving and lubricating everything, oil/fuel additives will get on the right track.

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 5:57 am

fontana dan wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 03, 2023 5:41 pm
Are you dealing with a crank no start or a no-crank? Do you have a scanner to check for codes? Why was the car parked?
If you think fuel pump is not turning on you can access it very easily in the trunk. Put your hand on it while someone turns the key. You can test fuel pressure at the rubber hose going to the rail in engine bay or the fuel filter under rear passenger door.
Next you want check for spark
What is the aim in replacing all of the relays?

Ran codes on it. No codes. I had a mechanic family friend come over yesterday he said the battery was at a 50% draw, 11.8v I guess from turning it over so much and only using a jump box as my way of charging up with battery enough to get it started. There was no fuel coming out of the inlet line. He also tested one of the injectors grounded it out and checking if it flashes a light (power) and there was none. Of course then at this point we realized the weakness of the battery. I’m gunna trickle charge the battery all day today. Interesting what you said about checking the FP through the trunk. Can you explain that a little more? Is there an access point that’s easy to get to? I figured the pump was in the tank with the sending unit but I’m used to working on old trucks which are simpler.

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 5:59 am

98_Q45 wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 04, 2023 12:22 am
Not to mention the obvious but: are the battery cables tighten enough?

Of course whether it’s cranking at all or just doing nothing is important…if cranking and not doing any starting, could be flooded with fuel.

Having an older car, even with just 70,000 miles just sit for a year can cause oil, fuel and coolant to leak within the first 2-3 days leading to problems. Driving and lubricating everything, oil/fuel additives will get on the right track.

battery isn’t great on its charge. I’m gunna trickle charge it. Yeah we had the terminals on good. It wasn’t getting fuel but I’m gunna charge it up and see what happens. I also was wondering about the FOB in the key maybe being weird. I have 3 sets of keys.

Post by **Ryantzer** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 10:02 am

A quick diagnostic test is to spray starter fluid in the intake while someone cranks the engine - if it starts then you know you've got a fuel system issue.

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 12:16 pm

Ryantzer wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 04, 2023 10:02 am
A quick diagnostic test is to spray starter fluid in the intake while someone cranks the engine - if it starts then you know you've got a fuel system issue.

Yeah tried that. It acted like it wanted to go but didn’t start

Post by **fontana dan** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 2:41 pm

The fuel tank and sending unit is behind the backseat in the trunk of the car. If you remove the cover at the front of the trunk room, you will see the entire fuel tank. I believe here you can test for 12v at your fuel pump connector.
If the pump isn't turning on but has power you can try giving it a good slap, and then cycle the ignition again and see if it primes.

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 3:51 pm

fontana dan wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 04, 2023 2:41 pm
The fuel tank and sending unit is behind the backseat in the trunk of the car. If you remove the cover at the front of the trunk room, you will see the entire fuel tank. I believe here you can test for 12v at your fuel pump connector.
If the pump isn't turning on but has power you can try giving it a good slap, and then cycle the ignition again and see if it primes.

Thank you so much!!! Great info. Gunna try that tomorrow

Post by **Ryantzer** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 4:11 pm

While you're diagnosing, keep in mind that the fuel system on your Q has a control unit for the fuel pump that varies the voltage going to it in response to engine rpm and load, which raises the fuel pressure when necessary. It's common for the control unit to burn out if the fuel pump starts to draw more current than it should. Hopefully yours is okay.

Post by **macgiver** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 4:57 pm

I'll come back with this , where ( I is Journeyman Electrician Uncle Jed IBEW ) Wheras I HAD 12.7 VDC - good voltage ? Yes BUT NO it WAS my F/pump relay w/BAAAAAAAAAAAAAD contacts , cheap A-zone . What happens is volts show , but relay chokes the current and will actually drop the reading way low upon ECM command to f/pump relay ie . ALL can " LOOK " good but be Baaaaaaaaaad,ya

Theory : starting a car = starter energized + ECM et ALL ckts energized TOO and properly so. and because todays cars have SO MANY OVERLAPPING relays to start like :starter portion allowed by Anti-theft and /or IMMOBOLIZER / possibly relays in rest of ECM circuitry . Liike anti-theft WILL be a "WALL' against the 'base' starter ckts, maybe immobilizer being "held" and NOT released , see? , etc.etc.
Here's my point how many times you hear & see someone get tip , THINK themselves about BIG HARD PART, DIFFICULT to get to job , EXPENSIVE part , EXPENSIVE Prof. Shop fees .....................when ELECTRICAL ?? Fuse , relays , even IPDM's are a first and SUPERIOR WAY to go for what I will call " BEST-WAY " results , and many common / same types in car , so you buy ONE or TWO relays @ like $35 @ DEALER ?? You SWAP then , man........ ".we mean it maaaaaaaaaan " (Johnny Rotten ref.

)

p.s. TWO (different) relays for car = $70-$80 Dealer ! vs Starter ( part $200 give-take) , pay someone $340 - $950 , depending on the DIS-HONESTY of shop owner .......SWAP some NEW RELAYS! !......................

Post by **98_Q45** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 11:59 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 04, 2023 4:57 pm
I'll come back with this , where ( I is Journeyman Electrician Uncle Jed IBEW ) Wheras I HAD 12.7 VDC - good voltage ? Yes BUT NO it WAS my F/pump relay w/BAAAAAAAAAAAAAD contacts , cheap A-zone . What happens is volts show , but relay chokes the current and will actually drop the reading way low upon ECM command to f/pump relay ie . ALL can " LOOK " good but be Baaaaaaaaaad,ya
Theory : starting a car = starter energized + ECM et ALL ckts energized TOO and properly so. and because todays cars have SO MANY OVERLAPPING relays to start like :starter portion allowed by Anti-theft and /or IMMOBOLIZER / possibly relays in rest of ECM circuitry . Liike anti-theft WILL be a "WALL' against the 'base' starter ckts, maybe immobilizer being "held" and NOT released , see? , etc.etc.
Here's my point how many times you hear & see someone get tip , THINK themselves about BIG HARD PART, DIFFICULT to get to job , EXPENSIVE part , EXPENSIVE Prof. Shop fees .....................when ELECTRICAL ?? Fuse , relays , even IPDM's are a first and SUPERIOR WAY to go for what I will call " BEST-WAY " results , and many common / same types in car , so you buy ONE or TWO relays @ like $35 @ DEALER ?? You SWAP then , man........ ".we mean it maaaaaaaaaan " (Johnny Rotten ref. )

p.s. TWO (different) relays for car = $70-$80 Dealer ! vs Starter ( part $200 give-take) , pay someone $340 - $950 , depending on the DIS-HONESTY of shop owner .......SWAP some NEW RELAYS! !......................

I put in a relay for my (used replacement) dead a/c condenser motor, it didn’t work. Was hopeful it would work, considering I replaced it with a salvage one previously. Temperature gauge will creep close to H with only one condenser fan running, if I’m in traffic and is 95-100 degrees out.

Can’t find a replacement motor anywhere, unless I can get away with using one from a Nissan or i30.

Post by **cbird805** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 9:33 pm

There is a remote possibility that it could be the ECU relay, since it's a crank/no start. It's behind the ECU. if it's good, then it would most likely be the fuel pump or the FPCU. Section EC has a troubleshooting guide to to read wires. Look for crank/no start fault section.

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:39 pm

cbird805 wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 07, 2023 9:33 pm
There is a remote possibility that it could be the ECU relay, since it's a crank/no start. It's behind the ECU. if it's good, then it would most likely be the fuel pump or the FPCU. Section EC has a troubleshooting guide to to read wires. Look for crank/no start fault section.

Okay to update: I have replaced the battery with a brand new one. The car was checked by a mechanic friend, it has no spark at injectors, no fuel and now no power inside the car (no lights, door power, nothing) All it does is crank over. What do you guys think? Is it the computer, or a relay of some kind?

Post by **macgiver** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:54 pm

Hate to say a car sitting THAT long chances are has multiple areas w/problems ," be careful NOT to assume ONLY 1 or even 2 is gonna fix-ALL "........................I just read off a Fortune Cookie ....................

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 5:35 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:54 pm
Hate to say a car sitting THAT long chances are has multiple areas w/problems ," be careful NOT to assume ONLY 1 or even 2 is gonna fix-ALL "........................I just read off a Fortune Cookie ....................

Thing is that the car started and ran great when we moved it out of it’s resting place! Idled great no problems at all. It’s something electrical.

Post by **cbird805** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 6:15 pm

Take off the hose to your fuel filter, and see if you have fuel pressure. If you don't have fuel pressure, then the problem is fuel system related. if you have fuel pressure, then check for spark.

Post by **Smafugula** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 9:30 pm

cbird805 wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 11, 2023 6:15 pm
Take off the hose to your fuel filter, and see if you have fuel pressure. If you don't have fuel pressure, then the problem is fuel system related. if you have fuel pressure, then check for spark.

No fuel and no spark. Checked all of that

Post by **fontana dan** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 11:24 pm

Sounds like you could be losing an important power feed. Use a test light or multimeter to check for power for fuel pump and ignition circuits on fuse 29 and 33 at the fuse box under hood. Is there power on the fuse?
Does the wipers or horn work? Check fuse 24.
Correct me if these numbers are wrong. Do a visual inspection to see if you are dealing with corrosion on the relay block.

Post by **macgiver** » Fri Aug 11, 2023 11:48 pm

Smufugula , like fontana dan , you guys are ON IT now , light at the end of the tunnel pray be near , like.....an arrow is drawn , back , released , to fly , ..............on your way ....you've SHOOT YOUR SHOT !!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DS1mNvXgujQ

Post by **macgiver** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 12:01 am

When relays are so RELATIVELY CHEAP , no need to be BORN TO BE CHEAP......................

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIPF8mk1a4Q

Post by **Smafugula** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 9:07 am

fontana dan wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 11, 2023 11:24 pm
Sounds like you could be losing an important power feed. Use a test light or multimeter to check for power for fuel pump and ignition circuits on fuse 29 and 33 at the fuse box under hood. Is there power on the fuse?
Does the wipers or horn work? Check fuse 24.
Correct me if these numbers are wrong. Do a visual inspection to see if you are dealing with corrosion on the relay block.

Both fuse boxes are getting power. I can’t seem to find the fuel pump relay. It’s not under the hood.

Does this ground cable look bad like this? Noticed it was bare at the mounting bracket going down to its grounding mount on the frame or whatever. https://share.icloud.com/photos/037CXPv ... GW0hs_F8Tg

Post by **macgiver** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 2:13 pm

Calling Edbwoy....callimg Edbwoy ...........he's kinda THE EXPERT on that there cars AND I bet he could re-iterate what I've been saying , about yours MAYBE like my J30 - in that f/pump relay is BEHIND the little 3" x 4" fuse box "down by the kick-panel ", drvr's side & low . IF same , to get to :

1) remove little fusebox cover , simply put aside - out 'o the picture ( so you dont LOSE )

2) REMOVE that 'carpeted '/ plastic kick-panel

3) TCM IS there (was on my J )

4) REMOVE Batt. neg........NOW unbolt TCM and push-away to reveal a rubber - backed - foil pad 4" x 6" (best to have disconnected TCM FIRST !) A 10mm captive "harness bolt" unscrewed to fully remove TCM 100 ckt strip type conn.

5) NOW YOU SEE A GREEN ( GREEN , GREEN is correct ) a GREEN F/P RELAY ( MAY also be a brown one on same "yoke"/ bracket Huh ? ya... HUH ? YA ?

6) Take THAT BRAND NEW $38 GREEN DEALER / Japanese RELAY AND REPLACE OLD ONE just like DIVINE says " Don't be CHEAP ! "

HUH ....YA ??

p.s. Neg. Battery cable back on ? , Huh ...Ya//

Post by **fontana dan** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 2:28 pm

That ground cable looks fine to me.
Have you looked at the factory service manual that is available here for free? Refer to EC-323 for fuel pump control diagnosis.

Post by **macgiver** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 2:34 pm

Yes Q's f/p controller's supposedly higher percentage of " issues " than most , BUT .....MANY a shade-tree ( ? ) BREAKS them ( or frys F/Pump in addition LOL

! ) when TRYING to follow the test sequence ...........AND module , I heard was CLOSE TO $$$ 1,000.00 , soooooooo, Now whatcha gonna do FIRST ??

Calling Edbwoy..............six two & EVEN .........over and out

Q45 Crank but No Start

Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Re: Q45 Crank but No Start

Nissan Forums

Infiniti Forums

Datsun Forums

Technical Forums

Classifieds / Marketplace

Nissan Motorsports

General Forums