Q45 Cooling System Radiator R&R advice

[tangalora]

... where did you get the 2-minute run time?

Infiniti Online Mechanic » Transmission Fluid Change - Would this work? http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=76109q45tech: If you have to - just drain the pan - refill, then run the engine 2.0 minutes [stopwatch please] and pan drain again- refill, repeat for 4 times.

[tangalora]

Check the condition of the anode pipe and thermostat cover

I picked up a new thermostat but didn't think about the cover. Thanks.

uh ... er ... um ... what's an "anode pipe" (where is it)?

[elwesso]

T IMHO I wouldnt worry about the pipe or the T stat cover unless its really bad...

The pipe maybe... The pipe referred is talking about the metal tube going from the Tstat housing to the lower radiator hose..... Look inside and if you see excessive "barnacles", then thats what you need to replace.....

[tangalora]

does your year Q allow 10w-40 oil per owners manual?

FSM for the 90 Q45 says 5 7/8 quarts (with filter) of API service SG.An accompanying chart allows for SAE viscosities of 5W30, 10W30, & 10W40.

More specifically, on MA-10, they write (verbatim): "10W30 is preferable if the ambient temperature is above -18 degrees C (0 degrees F). 20W-40 and 20W-50 are usable if the ambient temperature is above 10 degrees C (50 degrees F) for all seasons."

It seems to me that a 15 year old Q might be "worn" a bit so that's why I figured on the 40 second number (the first number, 10W or 20W, only lasts about 5 minutes in my opinion as once the engine heats up, the oil doesn't know that it's winter outside anymore so the only number that really matters after the engine heats up is the second number in my opinion). I could be wrong, but, that's why I go with 40 weight oil. In New York things were different (those first five minutes were killers); but in California, in the low lands anyway, it never gets cold like NY so 5W isn't really called for in my opinion.

In reality, I'd bet we could get away with a single-weight oil (less carbonization from additives) in CA valleys (as long as we don't go skiing).

[tangalora]

The anode pipe is the metal tube going from the Tstat housing to the lower radiator hose.

Oh. OK. Thanks. I wonder why they call it an "anode" pipe (typically there's a sacrificial anode in heaters and chemical reactors).

You must mean this pipe (see photo).

[tangalora]

The one pipe that was "corroded" was the water pump outlet pipe.I had called Scottsdale but the cost was in the hundreds (as it is more complicated than it looks according to the boys behind the desk).

At that price, I'll just scrape this pipe (see photo) off with a file before hooking al the new rubber hoses on.

[elwesso]

Might get some CLR or lime away to get rid of that stuff...

[tangalora]

... remove the injector fuse and fuel pump fuse ...

Excellent idea (especially since the Q has been sitting for months):- Replace the battery with a fresh battery (or trickle charge overnight)- Remove injector & fuel pump fuses (at your left knee of the driver cockpit)- Twist ignition key to "start" to turn the engine over (for about 5 or 10 seconds)- That should help get oil up in the engine without higher RPMs

[tangalora]

Might get some CLR or lime away

CLR?

[squeefoo]

CLR : Calcium Lime and Rust Walmart has it near the laundry soaps. Made by http://www.jelmar.com The back of the bottle says "Do Not Use On Aluminum" I presume since AL is a alkaline metal and CLR is an acid. I would boil it in some water and hit it with a wire brush (on a drill if you can) if I were you.

[911/Q45]

I picked up a new thermostat but didn't think about the cover. Thanks.

uh ... er ... um ... what's an "anode pipe" (where is it)?

If you look inside the thermostat cover and anode pipe there almost has to be some corrosion since they are sacrificial. They are cheap and easy, no reason not to replace now.

[Q451990]

The injector fuse is under the hood... fuel pump on inside fuse box.

Heath