Q45 concerns

[ddrumman]

Hi Guys, New here to the Nico brotherhood. I’m happy there is such a source of good information for our beloved Q45s.Here’s some info on the car. It’s a 94 standard model. I bought it in Oct 99 ( its’ 6th birthday ) with about 68,000 miles on it. It now has 113,000 miles.

It came with an extended warranty that would expire right at 100,000 miles (nice). And btw I renewed right before 100,000, so now we’re good until 135,000 miles or Oct. 2005 whichever comes first. So, as far as big repair bills go, I’d say/hope I’m covered.

Mods are: Eibach Pro Kit, springs, Tokiko blues, front and rear, Stillen FSTB. All installed by Stillen.

I’ll try not to waste time and talk about things that have already been discussed. Use the search engines etc.I have a lot of questions/thoughts but I’ll stick to a couple for now.

My questions/thoughts:1. Is it safe to switch to Mobil1 at this point (113,000 miles), for my fluids oil/trans? The dealer put 6 quarts of transmission fluid at 105,000 miles. When would you suggest the next change? 2. If I should get a transmission cooler, would that void my warranty?

3. I’m thinking of getting 17x8 wheels with 245/45 or 235/45 tires.Also I entertained the idea of 255/45 but maybe that’s pushing it. I’ve been under the impression as far as tires go, that the bigger the 1st # is providing the 2nd # is the same, the better/higher the load rate. (45% of 245 should be more than 45% of 235)I’m puzzled with the ratings/specs on some of the tires at Tirerack. For example the,Continental ContiExtremeContact in 245/45 is 95 w SL 400 AA A 1521lbs. 44 psi. While the same tire in 235/45 is 93W SL, 400 AA A, 1433lbs, 44psi, (makes sense.)

However with the Yokohama AVS ES100 it’s totally reversed.The 235/45 is 97W RF, 280 AA A, 1609lbs, 50psi, while The 245/45 is 95W SL, 280 AA.A, 1521lbs, 51psi

I’m looking at these tires because, as far as cost/specs go, they make the most sense.Also I’d prefer the 245/45 because it’s 25.7 or so, which is closer to the 26.1 factory.

Now as far as the wheels go, how important is it to have a “light weight” rim like say 16 to 22 lbs. vs. one that weighs 27.5 or so lbs.?

4. My last question/thought is on the rear sway bar.I’d love to find one that’s 22mm however I think that’s wishful thinking. I’ve read Dennis’ posts on this. So I’ll stick to reality and most likely get the A kit.Do you guys think I need to go to someone like Tucker’s in San Diego for the install or would the Dealer do ok? Is it a bolt on type of install or are there any mods that need to be done so it can go onto the standard model?Thanks in advance.

D.

[greg_atlanta]

1. I'd recommend Mobil 1 ATF with a full flush (15 quarts) but NOT Mobil 1 engine oil. I found that the new Mobil 1 formulation created a lot of valvetrain noise when I used it in my '92 Q45 around 180K miles. (Had used previous formulation before with no problems). At over 100K miles synthetic isn't really worth it, changing oil more often is more important (every 3 months regardless of mileage).

2. The only risk with a transmission cooler it that you may extend the life of a transmission that's going to fail soon anyways. I'd hope you current one goes bad while you still have the warranty.

3. Larger wheels, tires... welcome to tire balance problems (forever). Minimal performance gain.

4. Rear sway bar install is easy. Use urethane (solid) bushings instead of rubber bushings for a better effect.

[ddrumman]

Thanks for the inputSo you are saying that I shouldn't put the transmission cooler until AFTER my warranty expires.?As far as wheels/tires you are suggesting that it's only cosmetics and not performance.?So rear sway bars wouldn't be a problem for a dealer tech to install on a NONE A model.?

Thanks Greg.

D.

[Q45tech]

Years ago we had one smart ext service company that actually required an external add on cooler and synthetic atf and a flush before they would write the policy [all at owners expense] on a Q.

They actually covered things that went wrong unlike most of the current crop of companies.

Tire load index is a function of internal volume for air and side wall stiffness.

It is a government prescribed test conducted at 35 psi with 100%of the rated weight pushing a tire against a cooled metal drum to temp stablize the tire. Unfortunately tires are not tested for endurance at this load at speed.

"Uniform Tire Quality Grading is a federal law that requires tire manufacturers to grade their tires for tread wear, traction and temperature resistance. Tire manufacturers, not the government, test tires and assign their own grades. Unfortunately, the government has not yet prescribed a formula for converting the manufacturers test results into grades; therefore the numbers are not objective. "

Because the real world is not the lab and companies vary by how close they adhere to the test parameters.............I always try to find tires that exceed oem specs.

Since oem was a special made Dunlop D80V4 with a reinforced inner tread and sidewall to try to add a lux touch over the orginal top of the line Michelin Sport used in 90-93......one might assume that a regular 95V tire would be insufficient in a lesser standard brand. This is borne out by what happens to most tires when used on the Q front.

[rsiwicki]

Going with larger tires has generally several factors...the extra weight will slow down the car and affect braking, but the extra width in the wheel generally improves cornering ability to some degree. It is really a matter of personal preference and looks IMHO.

Rear sway bar should be no problem to install. I have the 20mm "A"" bar on my "t" model.

Check with your warranty company about the transmission cooler as some companies will void a warranty for any type of modification, but the transmission cooler I think is an Infiniti recommended procedure.

Got to give you thumbs up on the warranty as it will more than pay for itself by the time you hit 135K. I had one on my car till 134K and it ended up paying out over $7K in repairs all done by the dealer (transmission, knocksensors, driveshaft, upper links, valve covers, etc.)

I bought the camber adjustments from Stillen for use with my eibach springs. The dealer was impressed by the ease of adjustment/installation and I have not had any alignment problems yet, but I only have 2K miles since doing the mod.

[Q45tech]

http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/p...c.pdf

Background on the new proposed TIRE AGING FAILURE TEST. Current as of May 12,2004.

A MUST READ!

http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/p...2.pdf

EDR data:http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/p...R.PDF

[maxnix]

My questions/thoughts:1. Is it safe to switch to Mobil1 at this point (113,000 miles), for my fluids oil/trans? The dealer put 6 quarts of transmission fluid at 105,000 miles. When would you suggest the next change? 2. If I should get a transmission cooler, would that void my warranty?

3. I’m thinking of getting 17x8 wheels with 245/45 or 235/45 tires.Also I entertained the idea of 255/45 but maybe that’s pushing it. I’ve been under the impression as far as tires go, that the bigger the 1st # is providing the 2nd # is the same, the better/higher the load rate. (45% of 245 should be more than 45% of 235)I’m puzzled with the ratings/specs on some of the tires at Tirerack. For example the,Continental ContiExtremeContact in 245/45 is 95 w SL 400 AA A 1521lbs. 44 psi. While the same tire in 235/45 is 93W SL, 400 AA A, 1433lbs, 44psi, (makes sense.)

However with the Yokohama AVS ES100 it’s totally reversed.The 235/45 is 97W RF, 280 AA A, 1609lbs, 50psi, while The 245/45 is 95W SL, 280 AA.A, 1521lbs, 51psi

I’m looking at these tires because, as far as cost/specs go, they make the most sense.Also I’d prefer the 245/45 because it’s 25.7 or so, which is closer to the 26.1 factory.

Now as far as the wheels go, how important is it to have a “light weight” rim like say 16 to 22 lbs. vs. one that weighs 27.5 or so lbs.?

4. My last question/thought is on the rear sway bar.I’d love to find one that’s 22mm however I think that’s wishful thinking. I’ve read Dennis’ posts on this. So I’ll stick to reality and most likely get the A kit.Do you guys think I need to go to someone like Tucker’s in San Diego for the install or would the Dealer do ok? Is it a bolt on type of install or are there any mods that need to be done so it can go onto the standard model?

1. On the ATF, you certainly could. Certainly by reading the previous posts, you realize the difference between a partial drain and refill and a mechanical fluid replacemnt accompanied by a pan drop and filter replacement.

If you're running good and consistent compression and not hearing any knocks from the engine, there are a variety of synthetics in multiple weights which should work. I personally recommend a mechanical crancase flush such as the envirolution one before a first time synthetic fill.

2. Doubt it, but you can always ask.

3. Tire carcass construction varies widely. A strong precision one is necessary for hte Q. Cheaqp tires are usually just that, cheap.

4. Better do some more reading by Q45tech postings before deciding on urethane bushings. Especially on the links.

[Jesda]

Lots of Mobil 1 and oil threads (Search for posts by PalmerWMD). I noticed more clatter at startup when I ran Mobil1 10w30. But Mobil 1 5w40 seems to be best in my climate (St Louis, cold winters and blistering hot summers).

My Q has enjoyed years of annual (12k) Mobil 1 transmission flushes. $40 heavy-duty transmission cooler was added at 169k.

Shifts beautifully.

-Jesda

[ddrumman]

Wow what advice!!!!

I’ll process all this in and come up with a good plan.The for sure near future thing is the “rear sway bar”.I’ll go with that of the A, (stock).I’m not real big on altering a lot on the car. Having said that I must admit I’m a freak for good handling and good sound. The latter is a whole other subject.I first drove the Q in Oct of 91. My buddy had just purchased the 92 A model. He had gotten an upgrade with 16” BBS wheels and 225/50 tires. After driving it, I was hooked immediately. It felt exactly the way I thought a sport sedan should feel. However after I drove the standard model I was somewhat disappointed with its handling or lack thereof.So when I bought mine I knew that I’d have to change a few things with the suspension.Guys thank you for the excellent tips. I’ll keep you posted.

D.

[Jeff Williams]

D. sounds like you got a nice Q, there.

I have done some of the same mods, FSTB, Blues, Rear stabilizer bar, and I have 17" x 8" rims, with 255/45/17 tires.

I started out with the 225/50/17, then went to a 235/45/17, a 245/45/17, and now have the 255/45/17.

Load ratings are all over the chart. Some 100W ratings are less than other 94V ratings, when you look ath the weight listed. What's up with that?

The Bridgestone tires were the quietest, the Continentals were "darty", the Nitto's were noisy, and the Sumitomo's seem to be the best overall, but didn't last as long as the Nitto's. I may try the Falkens, next, or even Kumho's. I think I will stay with the 255/45/17, because the diameter is right on spec, and I like the feel of wider tires. Absolutely no squeal in turning.

Here's my opinion on oils (It is not the same as others) I wouldn't change any fluid types, unless you want to force the transmission to fail, and the engine to start knocking. The car has made it so far, with organics, and will do fine, if yo ustay with them. If you are concerned about wear, cahnge the fluids more often.

The transmission cooler is a nice add, but probably won't make much difference in life, on a transmission with that many miles on it. I would definitely add it, with a transmission re-build. I have heard that most of the damage happens in the first 10,000 miles, anyway (I learned it here, on NICO). I plan to add one, when I go for the next transmission, possibly at 250,000 miles.

[szh]

I have heard that most of the damage happens in the first 10,000 miles, anyway (I learned it here, on NICO).

I kinda believe the same too (no proof, though), so I am a firm believer in changing out all the "wear-and-tear" fluids in the first 10k miles on a new car - so that any left-over machining "burrs" that are "ground" off into the fluids is removed quickly.

Z

[ddrumman]

Jeff,Thanks for your input.You said that “the Continentals were "darty",”. What exactly do you mean?Also, on the tire issue you have 255/45s which I would love, but I have Eibachs and I read here in one of the threads that this particular combo wouldn’t work.

D.

[Jeff Williams]

The Continentals have a very soft inner wal, at least the Conti-Sport Contact model I had, did. The outer walls were very stiff. It seemed the car wanted to follow every groove in the road. I had 235/45/17 & 245/45/17 on the car.

I was always making steering corrections, it seemed.

I went to the NITTO NT-455 Extreme 225/50/17 They handled great, wet or dry. The load rating was a little light, but the weight rating seemed fine. I never had a single bid of trouble out of these, except they were always a little noisy. I attributed that to the directional tread. That is what lead me to the Sumitomo HTR+ I went 255/45, because AZhitman had them on his car. They are very quiet, and WIDE! It is nearly impossible to make them spin. Not quite as sure footed as the NITTO's in therain, but still a good performer. Fairly cheap, at Tire Rack.

I think AZhitman had 255 series tires on his '95 Q45t, and he has the Eibachs. Of course, now, he has 18" wheels.

[AZhitman]

255's will be fine. Plenty of room, even with a 1" drop.

There's actually room for MORE tire, even with the drop, but I'm not sure how the inside edge of the tire behaves under turning / suspension compression.

TONS of room in the rear, you can go nuts back there.

[ddrumman]

HitmanThanks for the input. I'm already sold on going with 17x8s and with the 255/45s.I'm looking at the Konig Appeals with the 40mm offset, 20.36 lbs.I would forward an image if I could. I'm not using my outlook-express.I'll probably go ahead and get the wheels now (I've run into a good deal), and wait until I need tires and then do the whole thing.But for sure I am doing the rear sway bar the next couple of weeks.Take care.

D.

[AZhitman]

Good plan.

That's a solid setup, you're well on your way!