Q45 ---10 years on...

[TellarHK]

One way to look at the difference between regular unleaded versus premium, is that it's going to cost you a fixed difference every time you fill the tank.

Assume a 20 gallon filling every time you take the car to the pump. The base price of fuel may fluctuate, but premium is almost always just $.20 more per gallon. 20 cents times 20 gallons is only four dollars.

So when gas prices are cheap, the difference is four dollars. When they're high, the difference is four dollars.

In short, just use premium. Four bucks, your car's high-compression engine will appreciate it more, and you won't have to worry.

[loystock]

Check the condition of the respective fuses. As for the stuck antenna mast...see below. Procedure should be the same for Infiniti.

NISSAN ANTENNA MAST INSTRUCTIONS

1. Remove the nut on the outer end of the power unit where the mast comes out of the car. 2. As someone turns the radio on ( with the key in the on position ) and as the mast begins or tries to come up,... YOU grab hold of it and pull out the old mast...taking note which direction the teeth on the plastic cable are facing so you know which way the new mast cable is to face when you put it in.... Make sure that the short outer grounding/retaining sleeve ( as what you see on the outer NEW antenna mast ) has come out with the old mast, this is very important, as this is what holds the antenna mast in when the nut is fastened..... If the old mast and grounding/retaining ring are out then proceed with step 4. If not proceed with step 3. 3. If at this time you can’t pull the mast out and it seems to be stuck, more than likely the grounding/retaining sleeve has annealed itself to the antenna tube. What we do is generally remove the power unit from the car and put what ever is left of the old antenna mast that is sticking out of the power unit and clamp it in a vice and very aggressively pull on the power unit and the mast Will come out. If at this time the old mast comes out proceed with step 4. 4. Compare the Old Mast with the New Mast, not only do they need to look the same physically but the length of the white teethed cable MUST be the same length. ( NEVER CUT THE NEW MAST CABLE ).... If the cable is not the same length, then you probably have a broken piece left in your power unit.... If the cable is shorter proceed with step 5.... If Both masts are physically the same along with the white cable length continue with step 6. 5. There are occasions where the antenna cable breaks off in the power unit and will not allow the replacement mast to be pulled in all the way. In this event you will have to remove the power antenna assembly from the car and place the power unit on the bench. Then remove the main cover. This will expose the drum. Now take note of the washer between the cover and drum. With the washer out of the way, grab the drum. Remove any broken pieces inside it, clean it out and regrease with a white lite grease. Now reassemble the power unit and proceed with step 6. 6. Insert the new mast cable into the top of the power antenna tube with the teeth facing the same direction which the old one came out,.. then have someone turn the radio off ( with the key in the on position ),.. as the power unit begins to pull the new mast in, guide the new antenna into the power unit, as it pulls the mast down into the power unit, it may on the first try not pull the mast all the way down, don’t worry, install the outer nut and turn the radio on and off a few times as this will center the new antenna mast. then, "Voila! The mast is installed." 7. If the power unit still clicks and grinds at this point, when the mast reaches its top and bottom travel, more than likely the guide that holds the cable next to the gear is bad. Contact us and we will show you how to fix this.

Rod

[3Q Jay]

what- you have the luxury of buying BP no ethanol 93 octane and you want to run 89?

tsk tsk. some would kill for what is right around the corner from you.

hey i don't want to be too negative to a fellow brevard-ite. keep your g50. are you using I of Melbourne? I haven't heard much good about them. we'll get together when i get back to cocoa beach (soon). is your bro local?

[maxnix]

1.) Well so far, i have done .... new front pads, new tires.

2.) Antifreeze change.

3.) A check of air filter looks new/clean, will replace with free flow when dirty-ish.

4.) i dont think i m going to be as fasidious with this one, (i filled up as soon as tank hit half way) as its only worth 3.5 -4.5K most right??

1.) Turned rotors? Shims OK? Tires up to FSM specifications?

2.) Changed to OAT? New thermostat? New OEM radiator caps?

3.) Think there is something better than annual OEM fuel and intake filter changes? That would be news to us.

4.) Depends on what it is worth to you! If you do everything half hearted, then things will fail fast, you will never know how good the car could be, and the repair of major failed subsystems will cause you to sell or give away the car.

Wonder why one would think tolerances are less precise unless one knows the car was abused previously?

Sub 91 Octane non Tier 1 fuel is certainly abuse that should be avoided.

[maxnix]

1.) tires are no name 340 AA, good enough?

2.) OAT?? idk what that is; i used fresh green stuff - prestone - not opened thermostat, as no heating issues. New caps fitted.

3.) K&N has replacement filter, was thinking of using that.....fuel filter, not replaced yet - will be oem.

4.) indeed, but i dont want to spend excessive monies running her if its going to break

1.) Only thing in contact with the road and thus are the final arbiter of performance is everything else is up to OEM new snuff, so your choice. Compound is too hard, but if you are not running TCS, you should be OK. Look out for rian, corners, emergency stops, and high speed.

2.) Organic Acid Technology - longer life, less corrosion. Distilled water as a dilutant? OEM caps?

3.) K&N is the worst thing you can do, besides use sub 91 octane. Oiled filter elements in front of a hot wire sensor is not a good thing for the snesor.

4.) Unless previouisly abused or not maintained, G50 don't break.

Don't think any Volvo is on the same plane as a G50, not for a second.

Your are doing well, just keep going and realize the penalty any shortcuts entail. Your car will be as good as you make it.

[TellarHK]

I'm no tire nazi, but I have to admit I was dismayed when my folks sent out my Q with a brand new set of "Hero" brand tires from the only tire shop in town back home in Maine. They'd had Pirelli's on it, but they wore down so fast they got the Hero's almost free due to the warranty. At the very least, make sure your "no name" tires are the store brand of a reputable company such as Big O, Les Schwab or Discount Tire.

As far as reliability goes, the big thing for Volvo hasn't really been reliability, it's safety. They're better than your average domestic crap, but there's a reason German and Japanese cars are the ones with the bragging rights. And the G50 model of the Q45 is one of Japan's first big attempts to prove that to Americans.