q electrical problems

[dnashing]

The following dash 'warning lights' started to illuminate about two weeks ago;Low Battery, TCS, Check Engine, etc. Went ahead and eventually replaced the alternator and the battery. Problem still persists. Had 14.2 volts when the new alternator went in, but daytime running lights flickered, next time I started it, the battery only had 13 volts at idle.next time I started the car the battery was 12 volts at idle.

Pulled daytime running lights module and relay now there is no daytime running lights at all.

Would a CONSULT test be the easiest way to diagnose my problem?

Alternator was rebuilt to heavy duty spec's and new battery. Checked for short circuits with no findings.

confusingly complex

thanks

[Infinitiguy19]

All signs point to either the alternator or battery and I suspect the alternator because it could have been rebuilt wrong.

Or you may have another energy hog in your car some where.
Modified by ppastos at 12:38 AM 12/8/2008

[maxnix]

Why we recommend OEM Alternator. Assuming battery meets minimum OEM specifications, go back to the shop.

[Jesda]

Batteries often do not come fully charged and the Q's alternator is not really capable of topping it off from 60%. Using any Nissan alternator to charge a battery will result in a dead battery or dead alternator -- these units lost forever with good care but they are not robust.

So before you install your new battery, put it on a charger overnight.

As the two gentlemen above me said, get an OEM alternator. Aftermarket units for all cars are known for being defective.

[dnashing]

update charged new battery overnight only started the car 5 times and it drew 6 amps. this morning started car and bat volt was 12.3 running.dash said low bat. right away, slp and tcs and drlights flashing.after 1 min. dash and headlights were normal and batt voltage was 12.2. then after 3 min. head lights drls went completely out. I turned on headtights they worked and the idle went up a little headlights off no drls no change in idle 12.2 at batt. then after a while the drls came on when I turned the lights off, voltage at the batt. 11.99, then when car was off batt. voltage was 12.4. the alt. was rebiult by a shop ,they told me it would be better than new and heavy duty.I only had 14.2 volts yesterday when I first started the car with the new battery.I did not check new battery first. could the drl control unit be the power hog? thank you

[qship96]

Take the car back to the shop that rebuilt alternator for testing.....it should put out 14.1-14.7 volts at idle speed....sounds like a defective rebuild

[Jesda]

I promise you, its not DRL.

I agree with above, sounds like an improperly rebuilt alternator. I strongly suggest trying to get your money back and purchasing an OEM unit.

[dnashing]

A big thanks for all the input! This has been a nightmare,the car has been on blocks for 2 weeks. I really do not like re&reing the alt 3 times, but I think I'm geting quicker. The alt. shop said bring the car over (10 miles) and they will check it in the car. I do not think the battery will last that long.The saga continues.

[maxnix]

I really do not like re&reing the alt 3 times.....

Exactly why we recommend OEM rebuilt.

A very good shop can replace all the diodes, but few 3rd party rebuilders do.

A fully charged battery should last ten minutes, but the trip back could be dicey.