Putting on heat wrap w/o removing header?

[onosqv]

Is it necessary to remove the header (hotshot for 89 240sx) to install heat wrap?

I'm experiencing overheating issues after my install in stop and go traffic. I'm hoping I can find an aftermarket heatshield or something instead of doing the heat wrap.

Thanks

[Structure240sx]

overheating of the engine is not due to the header. its the cooling system that is your problem.

[onosqv]

overheating of the engine is not due to the header. its the cooling system that is your problem.

thanks, that's good to know.

The only reason I thought it would be the headers was that I never had this problem until I installed the headers, which consequently removed the stock exhaust manifold heatshield. So, I figured since more heat was coming from the headers, that would mean the engine bay would be hotter, especially when I'm idling in traffic.

I figured if I wrap the headers or get a shield, that will push the heat and make it dissipate further down the line away from the engine bay.

Can you recommend a way for me to check my cooling system? The fan works, but I was planning on changing it to the 2 electrical fan system. I was also thinking about upgrading the radiator if it would help out.

Another possibility for me would be to get a vented carbon fiber hood, which should allow more air to flow through the engine bay and keep temperatures down.

Thanks for your response, any help is greatly appreciated.

*EDIT: maybe overheating is the wrong word or I am using it incorrectly. The engine doesn't die out or smoke up. When I'm in traffic for a long period of time during the day, say for 15 minutes plus, the temperature gauge starts climbing up. If I blast the heat, the temperature will start to go back down to normal. I know this is the common solution to this problem, but I would prefer to fix it rather than do that step every time, especially since it's already hot enough during the summer .

[msaskin]

Is your a/c on while you're sitting in traffic and overheating? If it is, have you checked to see if the a/c fan (the stock electric fan) is actually working?

I 2nd the fact that it's not the headers fault. I run without a heatshield and with a tubular manifold on a turbocharged car, which needless to say is going to have a little bit more heat in the engine bay (;)) and don't have temperature problems (and i've got a totally stock cooling setup, stock radiator, thermostat, clutch fan, etc.)

~matt

[niznos]

I think you should start with the simple stuff first. The thermostat and fan clutch. As far as the header wrap, it would be very time consuming to wrap it while it's on. I forget, but there is a company that makes header sleeves that look like...well, sleeves that have a slit. I think I saw it in the Jeg's, or Summit Racing catalog.

[98s14inaz]

Absolutely do not put heat wrap on your hs headers. It negates the ceramic coating and will probally ruin your headers. More likely to crack because they can't dissapate the heat correctly

[onosqv]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm still learning, that's why I post before I do anything .

Ok, msaskin, it does seem like at least 2 of the times it starts raising in temperature, I have the AC on. Can you tell me where the stock electric fan is? Niznos, I'll check the thermostat and fan clutch too, if anyone can tell me where it is .

98s14inaz and structure, thanks for the advice on not putting on heat wrap. Don't wanna ruin my $300 investment.

[msaskin]

The stock A/C fan is going to be in front of the a/c condensor...look through your front grill and you'll see it. Make sure that when you have the a/c on that fan is on as well.

~matt

[niznos]

brokeAs240sx, 98s14inaz is right, I totally overlooked that you had Hotshots on there. I think they are all ceramic coated, so no need to wrap.

As far as the fan clutch, it is the metalic looking disk on the back of the plastic fan that has little fins all over it. At the age of our cars, you may as well just replace it. I did mine within a month ago, and even though it wasn't considered bad yet, I noticed the temp gauge is like a mm lower at operating temp. Most service manuals say to take off the intake tube and fan shroud to get to it easier, but if you got small hands or are good at reaching hard to get spots, you can do it without taking anything off at all. That's what I did.

The thermostat is a thermo-valve that opens to let the coolant flow once the car is a specific temp., it is rated at 170 degrees stock (begins to open at 170, fully open at 194), it is in the water neck that the upper radiator hose connects to on the head. You will need to remove the water neck to get to it. Don't forget to buy a gasket/seal if it does not come with the thermostat already. Again, if you are going to take it out, you may as well replace it. It a lot of trouble to go through just to check it. It a few bucks, better to just throw in a new one.