Putting a Lip on end of Intercooler Piping?

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Tr0uble
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Was wondering how you put the lip/hump on the end of intercooler piping to keep the silicone coupling from blowing off under pressure. I had to cut my "bolt on" hot pipe to get it to fit where it's supposed to. Problem now is it doesn't have the lip to keep the coupling from blowing off under wide open throttle boost.

Is there a special tool for this?or any ideas on what type of company can put that on there?Not many custom places here in the carolinas.


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mutiny
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You could try flaring the piping, but I think the lips are generally welded on the piping or part of the piping somehow? I vote welding all the piping into one piece instead of coupling

Florida240sx
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I had a guy put some spot welds around my pipe then I took to a grinder and smoothed them down... No problems at 25psi

pr240sx
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Or use hairspray where the silicone conectors meet the pipe.

By the way, I think that is called a bead, IIRC

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480sx
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All you do is get someone who can tig aluminum and get them to use a pretty good ammount of filler rod. Or you could use T-bolts/hairspray.

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Tr0uble
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mutiny wrote:You could try flaring the piping, but I think the lips are generally welded on the piping or part of the piping somehow? I vote welding all the piping into one piece instead of coupling
It'd probably be more aesthetic to start from scratch rather than have 2 weld lines on the piping. I had to take a section out of the "bolt on" piping to get the angle I needed. I'll more than likely have a couple custom pipes made here in town later. I just want a temp fix until I get some more time to talk to some people.

It's pretty annoying driving around town and have it randomly blowing loose.

Hairspray sounds like a pretty cool idea.

AxiOn419
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I have never dealt with this situation but I like solving problems so here are my ridiculous suggestions:

1- What if you used duct tape or electrical tape around the end of the intercooler piping in order to make a tighter fit as well as a better grip. I imagine rubber(the tapes non sticky surface) and silicone stick better together than metal and silicone.

2- What about a JB Weld lip?


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mutiny
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or grab a pipe or something and flare it out like a suggested earlier

rb25drag
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Either flare it or get some type of rubber glue from the parts store.

Only options you have besides starting over or getting someone to tig a bead on the end which is what I would do.

masterbunta
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The second reason for slippage is the oiliness that forms on the two surfaces. You can temporarily fix the problem by degreasing the two surfaces with a non-residue carb cleaner. When the pipe and the hose are free from all grease, they will hold much better.

You really need to get some type of lip on the pipe at some point.

Taba13
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IF you are handy and or on a budget, you can flare the pipe easily yourself with a pair of good sized vice-grips and time.

since most all IC piping is aluminium it is fairly easy to bend out of shape and or flare.

take the vice grips and go to town by sliding them over the pipe wall about a half inch and bending outward, where the time come sin is because you have to try and get it even and a good non kinked bend all the way around the diameter of the pipe.

worked for me at 16+ psi

pr240sx
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Or creat a rough surface on the pipingThe tape, JB weld , etc could be eaten my the turbo,engine and cause a disaster.

Roughen up the pipe and use hairspray. If you need more grip, drill the pipe and use screws sealed with a small dab of silicone. Seems brutal but works perfectly!!

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Tr0uble
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Thanks for the suggestion guys.


drmerdp
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Totally recommend having someone tig a bead around the pipe.

Its the end all solution, plus think about it what if you have to remove the coupling eventually, more bull****.

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AZhitman
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Whoa, whoa, whoa.

Too much ghetto-rigging.

Eastwood sells an affordable bead roller. Buy one and rent it out to folks - It'd pay for itself pretty quickly.

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Tr0uble
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AZhitman wrote:Whoa, whoa, whoa.

Too much ghetto-rigging.

Eastwood sells an affordable bead roller. Buy one and rent it out to folks - It'd pay for itself pretty quickly.
Thanks Az, just the info I was looking for

So a bead roller is what it's called

AceInhole
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Harbor Freight also sells a bead roller, with changeable tips for flaring/ shearing.

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...34104

pr240sx
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But we are NICO!!We like to improvise!!

Those are handy tools, but I prefer to ïnvest in speed parts instead.Although a TIG welder and a bead roller will pay almost instantly when you start your own jobs!!

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480sx
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Lol you'll need to do a few jobs to pay off the price of a good tig welder. The trick is buying the ones that can go cold enough to do really thin alum. Then it gets expencive..


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