AlexN09 wrote:One option would be a switch with a spring inside that only made contact with your finger on it so you could just press both at the same time to start the car.
That's how I did my mod. Although it looks like a rocker switch, it's momentary and you have to hold it while you press the push-to-start. So on my car it takes two hands to start if you're using the fake clutch button.
Another interesting little quirk - on the factory push-to-start switch, you can just jab it and instantly let go, and it continues to run the starter motor long enough until it actually starts. But on the clutch switch, if you let go before it's actually started, it instantly cuts off the starter motor. I expect the brake pedal would work similarly to the clutch (don't know for sure, though).
AlexN09 wrote:Actually I just thought of something else too.. What if you grounded the brake line to the push to start button through a relay or other delayed circuitry device so that if you held down the PTS button it would start the car but if you just pushed it once it would cycle like normal?
The problem with that is that the delay (whatever you use to decide between actual starting and ign/acc/off) needs to be known before (or at least at the same instant as) the actual pushing the PTS button.
I did a quick bit of looking around in the FSM (2009 QR25 sedan) and it looks like the brake pedal has two switches on it. One of them (connector E37) has 2 wires and is just for the cruise control. The other (connector E38) and has 4 wires on a CVT car (but only 2 wires on a MT car). Pins 1 and 2 of E38 are what get connected together to turn on the brake lights and also let you start the engine. Those pins have a red wire and a light-green wire. Pin 1 (red wire) gets battery power through fuse #7 on the interior fuse panel (10a, "stop lamp").
The extra 2 wires on E38 are for the CVT shift lockout (those wires are green w/ red stripe and red w/ white stripe).