pump not turning on.

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
WeldingHank
Posts: 559
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:07 am
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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so i got my car all wired up and all. and i go to start it. and no dice. first thing i do is check all my wiring. its all good. i figure out that the fuel pump isn't turning on. i did the wiring right, the relay is clicking on/off, but the pump itself is not turning on. is there something i forgot to connect? or is it possible that my pump went bad by sitting for 2 weeks?


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Trigger
Posts: 550
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2003 6:13 am

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check your fuel pump relay. its under the hood in the fuse box closes to the intake of the engine. should be the middle relay. I bet somehow you popped it.....nothin a quick trip to the junkyard cant fix

Tim

WeldingHank
Posts: 559
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:07 am
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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the relay works, i tested it. it clicks as nessecary. but the power power doesn't make it to the pump. for now i have my pump wired to a switch.

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float_6969
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Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
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Just becaus the relay "clicks" doesn't mean it's doing its job. This is how you test it; First of all, unhook the switch that you have hooked up, and remove the negative terminal from the battery. Next, get under the hood and unhook the fuel pump relay. Take a short peice of wire and bare the ends. When you look at the slots where the relay fits in you'll see 4 female spades. 2 are farther apart and 2 are closer together. It will kind of look like a Y. Put the wire into the two slots that are closer together. What this does is basically make it so that power goes straight from the battery to the fuel pump. If when you reconnect the negative terminal and turn the key on, the pump still doesn't come on, then there is a wiring fault somewhere between where the relay and the pump is. If it now works, then the relay might be bad. The way to test it is to leave the relay out and start the car (do what you have to get the fuel pump to run). If you take a multimeter and test the voltage across the 2 slots that are farther apart it will tell you if the computer is sending the signal to the relay to close the circut. You'll want to set it for DC any setting higher than 12V. If you get power there, then the relay is bad, if you don't, then either the computer is shot, or your crank angle sensor is bad. If you want more info or clarification let me know and I'll do something in Paint to make it clearer.

WeldingHank
Posts: 559
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:07 am
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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i started up the car, it idles fine so i can't see why the CAS/ECU would be bad. but i can't rev due to my massive boost leak i am trying to sort out. i will test out the relay as you said, but for now the pump will stay wired so i can get the car moving.

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kim
Posts: 268
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2004 9:28 pm
Car: 90 240sx, 97 M3

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WeldingHank - did you ever get the pump working? If you did what did you do? I'm in the same situation right now. I did it like the Srswap faq said to. I'll try doing the relay test but I have a spare relay but it doesn't help. I don't hear it clicking, I'll test it tonight please let me know also what you did to directly hook up the pump with the switch thing also.

Thanks,Kim

WeldingHank
Posts: 559
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 8:07 am
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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I got a 30 amp relay and re-wired the whole thing myself. so now, the pump gets a full 12 volts . i didn't even check my relay. i got the switch power from the ignition, 12 volts from battery. all you need to do is run the wire back to the pump harness. to the Black/Yellow wire IIRC.


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