pulling the CA engine

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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dhen
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Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:27 am
Car: MGA w/ CA18DET

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Hi,

I've got a CA18DET in my car that's going to have to be pulled so I can fix an oil leak. I'm not sure if I should try it myself or pay someone to do it. I've pulled engines before, but these were 40-year-old engines that were much, much simpler.

I've got the FSM, but how hard is it to pull this engine out and stick it back in? Is it hard to get the engine to line up with the transmission when you install it?

Sorry if these sound like stupid questions, but I already screwed up my timing once when I replaced my water pump and I don't want to break anything.

Thanks,

Darian


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ca18detgabby
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Car: 92 Nissan S13 ca18det SOLD
03 Infiniti G35
Location: lake Mary FL
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just pull the motor and trans all as one piece.

if tim can do it..... how hard could it be?

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dhen
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Car: MGA w/ CA18DET

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ca18detgabby wrote:just pull the motor and trans all as one piece.

if tim can do it..... how hard could it be?
I wish I could, but it's not an option with the setup I have because of rear crossmember is in the way. Is it hard to get it to line up?

Darian

Two-Fortee
Posts: 428
Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 180sx.

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Never pulled an engine before until 3 days ago. Its not hard. Unhook and unbolt everything that connects to it, and haul her out. Sounds so simple lol.

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sjbsuperman1425
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Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx
CA18DET
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yea it all comes out so easily. i was nervous putting it in, but it slips in/out like a glove. just unhook the ecu, pull the ecu connector out of the car through the firewall, make sure everything is out of the way, unbolt and haul it out..

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ca18detgabby
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Car: 92 Nissan S13 ca18det SOLD
03 Infiniti G35
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dhen wrote:
I wish I could, but it's not an option with the setup I have because of rear crossmember is in the way. Is it hard to get it to line up?

Darian
Ive never done it one piece at at a time. Idk if it is anything like a S13, simple because it is a total custom build
Modified by ca18detgabby at 11:19 PM 10/23/2008

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r34 gtr
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Car: 98 Nissan Frontier XE 4x4
95.5 Audi URS6 Avant 5spd
03 BMW 330i ZHP 6spd
89 Nissan 240SX base CA18DET
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Ive done it both ways and I much prefer pulling it as one unit, with the engine still bolted up to the transmission. Drain the oil and coolant, and pull the radiator and fan shroud. Pull all the connectors, and label where they go, and then unbolt the engine and transmission mounts and yank her out! Its really quite easy. I find that trying to line up the engine and transmission together is kind of a pain.

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dhen
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Car: MGA w/ CA18DET

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Thanks. How difficult is it to replace the rear seal? That's where my leak's coming from.

Darian

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r34 gtr
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I would imagine it sucks. I have to change my front one out over winter break, and am not looking forward to it. Its totally doable, especially with the engine out of the car, but it will require unbolting the main caps and lifting the crank up enough to put new seals on.

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dhen
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Car: MGA w/ CA18DET

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I was afraid of that, but thanks for the honesty.

Darian

dash
Posts: 579
Joined: Fri May 05, 2006 4:07 am
Car: s13 ca18

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Pulled lots of rwd motors and always drop the transmission first.... except for projects like my rwd corolla and starlet where the top of the radiator support can be removed, so the motor/transmission assembly can be quickly "slid" out.With the CA18 auto I left the transmission supported, plucked out the motor and returned it, no problem.I don't mind lining up a transmission/gbox onto the intalled motor, and I work alone and don't even have a lift.
r34 gtr wrote:I would imagine it sucks. I have to change my front one out over winter break, and am not looking forward to it. Its totally doable, especially with the engine out of the car, but it will require unbolting the main caps and lifting the crank up enough to put new seals on.
you don't have to touch main bearing caps or lift crank to change the rear oil seal. That's required for the front seal ?I'd leave the motor in, drop the gbox, remove the flywheel and there is the seal/housing staring right at ya


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Rin5
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Car: 1990 240sx CA18DET, 1990 240sx SE fully auto (Daily)

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yeah

i think most if not all RWD engine/drive removal is similar...

unbolt, unplug, untangle....once all is free either do it as 1 or as 2

i did mine as 1...if u have 2 people then it is easy..3 makes it cake...4, someone will be tellin stories/jokes/gossip as other 3 are workin...or maybe passin tools and stuff

oh and im not callin you stupid lol its just the only icon with arrow up

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SxMachine
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dash wrote:
you don't have to touch main bearing caps or lift crank to change the rear oil seal. That's required for the front seal ?I'd leave the motor in, drop the gbox, remove the flywheel and there is the seal/housing staring right at ya
Thats exactly wut i would do and do when working on rwd clutches. Throw the car up on some jack stands snatch the transmission out n go from there. Shouldn't be 2 hard prob just as hard as a clutch job.

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HighwayStar22
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Car: 2002 RSX Type-S, 1991 240 Hatch

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Seals are easy. They're right on the front and back. Just pull the transmission/clutch/flywheel for the rear and crank pully for the front.

As far as swaps, I'm prolly with most of the guys here. I don't have a lift and have done over ten by myself in my driveway. Once you do one, you've done them all. It's so simple. I never pull the trans apart. I yank everything at once.

Invest in an engine level from harbor frieght. It make it x2164546545 easier to angle the motor in and out.

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Bwana
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Car: Denali
Location: Escondido, CA

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Darian:

Assuming this is the engine in your MG it's going to be significantly more difficult than in a s chassis. I'm not exactly sure how Todd did yours but I can have mine out in about 3 hours. I pull the engine and transmission as a unit out the top. It's snug but fits ok. Once you have it out changing the seal is a piece of cake.

Good luck!


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