Pulling KA - w/ or w/o MT?

[slipnfall]

Hi everyone, I'm going to pull my dead DE this weekend, and have a quick question. The FSM tells me to pull the transmission(m/t) before hoisting the engine out. The last time I saw an engine pulled, it was with the transmission still attached. Which is easier in this car's case?

Unfortunatelly, I might be manning this by myself(1st timer). Is it safe to attach the chain to the I/E manifolds? Can I find general purpose sling(hook) attachments for the DE, or is this something i have to get from the dealer?

Thanks for reading-Jamie

[gumby]

i would like to know about the sling attachment for a sohc.

from what ive gathered its easier to the KAs with the trans attached since unbolting the bell housing from underneath is a b-tch.

[redamnavit]

Hi everyone, I'm going to pull my dead DE this weekend, and have a quick question. The FSM tells me to pull the transmission(m/t) before hoisting the engine out. The last time I saw an engine pulled, it was with the transmission still attached. Which is easier in this car's case?

I just did this two weeks ago. Its definitely easier to leave the transmission attached. Remove your radiator and you'll have a clear path. Actually you've probably got a clear path with it there, but I ended up cracking the plastic top endtank on mine so I suggest you remove it. Oh, and don't forget to remove the shift mechanism. Its a ***** to reach into the tunnel and dissasemble it when the engine's halfway out . Don't ask how I know.

Quote » Unfortunatelly, I might be manning this by myself(1st timer). Is it safe to attach the chain to the I/E manifolds? Can I find general purpose sling(hook) attachments for the DE, or is this something i have to get from the dealer? -Jamie [/quote]

I used a load leveler, which I would suggest is NEAR ESSENTIAL if you leave the transmission attached. I tied a 1 ton load strap to the front runner of the intake manifold and used that for one attachment point. I used the bolt holes where the lift bracket is supposed to be attached at the rear of the head for the other. You could probably use the exhaust manifold as well.

OR...

If you can find a set of lift brackets that's great, but they're not necessary. My KA had none, the CA I got from Japan had the front one at least. I made another by taking a piece of angle iron and drilling two holes for the bolts to attach it to the head and one one longer hole on the other angle to bolt the chain to. Works like a charm.

Oh, I did this all single handed, no help from start to finish so don't be too afraid of that. If you're anywhere near philly and need a hand email me. Hope this helps.

[NismoGreg]

although it is a pain in the ***, the motor comes out easier if you unbolt the transmission first

[nab911]

Lol we just pulled a sohc and i have done my dohc. Both without a load leveler. Both were the same, leave the transmission on, dont even think about taking it out, just pull the shifter out. Next, be careful of your radiators because as you lift the motor, you have to pull it forward to get the transmission to clear, and we jacked both radiators, no holes just bent fens . Just wiggle it out and if you need to, turn it side to side to get the pullys to clear the top but once the front clears, just lift and pull out.

[slipnfall]

Thanks everyone for your reponse. Since this car(to my dismay) won't be running until I get my other KA rebuilt, it's no big deal to pull the transmission and let it sit a while. After doing some searching it seems the bell housing bolts can be a pain to get off.

red: unfortunately I don't have a load leveler at my disposal. Regarding the mounting brackets: I planned on just using some tow straps, attached to the chain, to be quick 'n dirty. However since a KA will be going back in, it'd be worth my time to make some quick fastners up as you described. You don't happen to know the bolt size used do you?

nab: Yes I agree that it'd be wise to remove the radiator. I don't plan on re-using it - it's ~50% clogged anyways.

Oh and red, thanks for the offer of help, but I found a set of helping hands. They're pretty easy to find when burgers and beer are thrown in. :-)

I'll let you all know how it works out this weekend.

-Jamie

[slipnfall]

Just to follow-up on my post - we got the KA out without any major problems this weekend. I wanted to pull the transmission w/the engine, but since the drive shaft bolts were a b**** to get to/off[would have had to rotated the shaft to get to the top bolts), we just unbolted the bell housing. Before I go further - can the drive shaft simply be pulled from the transmission? Is there enough play/slop to pull it all the way out?

There was one really hard bolt to get to, at the top of the bell housing. After removing the wiring harness and AC line from the rear of the valve cover, we could get to it with a small 1/4" drive/skt. Removed the fan, shrowd, radiator, AC and PS pumps.

Took some quick pix if anyone is interested.Check 'em at my student homepage Washed 'er down with a pressure washer while I was at it.

Thanks for all the responses!-Jamie

[msaskin]

Just pull the driveshaft off the transmission. It'll slip off the output shaft and will be good to go. just don't let it hit you if you're down there when it slips out

~matt

[gumby]

yanked out the ka24e today w/trans no issues. tight enough squeeze even without the radiator. load leveler was very useful.

[streetspirit7]

I'm working on pulling out my Ka right now as well, I want to just unbolt the bell housing and take the engine out and leave the transmissoin in the car. I was wondering how hard it would be to put the new Ka in and line it up with the transmission with the transmission still in? This is the first manual/t car I have worked on so I'm not sure how or if you even have to line any thing up, I know auto's are a b**** to line up the torqe converter while the transmission is in the car. I guess my question is can I do this or am I just kicking myself in the balls?

[msaskin]

It's pretty easy to do. With a M/T everything (flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate) is bolted to the block side of things, and the bell housing just basically slips over it all (with the input shaft going down the middle).

That said, it's much easier to pull it all out in one piece...removing the transmission in the car sucks (at least the top few bolts anyhow)

~matt