Psngr power window out of track

[clev]

I replaced the front speakers yesterday with Sony Xplode 6x9 and they were a perfect fit. While I was into it, I insulated the inside of the doors. (I did the rear with 6.5 Sonys a few weeks ago and insulated those doors). The drivers was no problem, but the psngr side was a witch putting back together; took at least 30 min longer than the drivers side. Needless to say, the window is down a little in the front and up, more, toward the back. Before I tear into this today, does anyone have any advice about dealing with the front psngr window. If you've been into it, you know the front is totally different than the rear.

[philipa_240sx]

I already messed with the door panel & window myself, so I have experienced the issues you are having.

The front windows on the Rogue are attached differently than other cars. Once you remove the interior panel, the large plastic 'cover' you see not only keeps water out, it also retains all of the power window hardware and the window tracks. If you disturb this panel at all (which I assume you did), you have to carefully realign it.

There is about 1/8" adjustment via the 4 'inner' attachment bolts that hold the window tracks. If you carefully mark the bolt locations with a marker, nail polish, paint, etc before you remove them, you can re-align them. If it's already misaligned, try the following:

1) Roll the window down so a 1/2" gap appears.

2) Remove the interior trim panel, disconnect the power window switch.

3) Carefully loosen the 4 track bolts located towards the inside of the panel and readjust as necessary to get the 1/2" window gap even on both sides.

4) Temporarily reattach the power window switch and test. Readjust if necessary.

There is a link to the manuals in the Official Rogue FAQ. Look under the 'Facts' section. The manual section titled "GW" describes the Glass and Window systems.

As for the rear windows, they are appear to be done in a more conventional manner. You should be able to access the door interior without disturbing the window.

[cdmuile]

Great information for all of us. Thanks philipa.

[clev]

Thanks phil, and I apologize for not getting back with a response sooner than this. I followed your advice yesterday, and there was just enough adjustment on the 4 screw holes on the cover panel to get the window back in position. No, it wasn't as simple as I made it sound. My wife and I worked on it for the better part of 2 hours. Advice to all----------DON'T mess with the front power windows, they are a real witch. You can swap out the speakers without bothering the windows and the improved sound is worth it. Also, at this time, we've insulated all 4 doors and the rear deck all around the spare. The difference in noise level is tremendous. This weekend, we'll be pulling the seats and carpet, and the rear side walls to add the remaining insulation. Again, thanks phil, it seems you're always here for good advice.

[Pescakl1]

Could you tell us what type of insulation you put in the car?

I know Leo planned to use Dynamat to insulate his car.

Is it easy to do and how is the result?

[clev]

I don't recall what the material is called. I had some left over from a roll that I ordered from jc whitney about 10 years ago, cost about $60. I ordered another roll 2 weeks ago and the price was close to $100. The material is 4'x 24', 1/2 inch thick padded/quilted material with foil on one side. Link: http://www.jcwhitney.com/HEAT-...1.jcw

[paulvanharte]

I have also insulated the trunk area and was planning on doing the doors as well. Are you saying that you cant insulate the front doors without removing that cover??

Paul

[Leo2005]

Nice topic. I was just planning to insulate my trunk and front doors this weekend but if it will be cold like last couple days I will have to move it to the next weekend. I got enough dynomat material and JL Speakers VR525-CSi for the front doors so I'm just waiting for nice weather now.

[clev]

Once you remove the outer door cover/trim, there is a squarish black plastic panel about 15x15"" in the center of the door. There are 4 bolts that screw directly into the two window tracks and ~10 bolts around the outer edge of the panel. When you remove the 4 bolts, the window tracks are loose and the window will fall. If you're going to attempt the job, remove the outer 10, have some one hold the window, and then remove the 4. Cables are attached/through this panel and we worked around them. We used spray on headliner adhesive to hold the insulation in place. The drivers side door, was easy, but we worked on the passenger side for a couple of hours, 2 days in a row and destroyed the window film/tint; $40 to replace it. The rear doors were no problem; remove the outer panel, peel away the plastic sheet, and you have access to the inner part of the door; nothing like the front.

While we're on this, has anyone removed the seats and back, side interior panels? We'll be doing that this weekend and don't want any surprises. I'm a little concerned about the side air bags

[paulvanharte]

Phillip can you email me at [email protected] am curious about what you mean by marking the bolts. I removed the door panel and looked at the plastic cover. Not sure what you mean by marking the bolts. I also would like to add some sound insulation material to the doors.

Paul

[philipa_240sx]

Hi Paul,

I was referring to using a paint pen, touchup paint, etc to mark the outline of the bolt & washer on the plastic door panel. This way, once you remove the bolts, you can reassemble them in the same location. Maybe you should just insulate the inside of the door panel instead? It would be alot easier.

[paulvanharte]

Thanks I just replied to your emailFor insulation purposes I assume it would be better to do the inside of the door so that it muffles the noise better.

Paul

[philipa_240sx]

Removing the plastic panel from the door to get inside is a real big PITA. Unlike other cars, this panel holds the window hardware (tracks, window regulator, power window motor) in place. When you try to remove it, there is nothing to hold the window in place anymore. You are either forced to have someone hold the window while you disassemble like clev did, or you have to remove window entirely.

If you are just going to insulate with Dynamat or similar, I would recommend just insulating the plastic door panel without trying to remove it. ie remove the interior trim panel (the part with the door handle, pocket, armrest), insulate the panel and re-install. Be careful not to add too much material so you can re-install the door panel properly.