Post by
WDRacing »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/wdracing-u3125.html
Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:53 am
After re-reading your original post, I'm a tad confused. You want us to tell you what? You don't want us to tell you what boost to run, but you want us to tell you how to figure it out?
I explained exactly why we need to know everything. Because EVERYTHING matters.
I understand you're trying to learn here. Thats a good thing. But I don't know *what* you're trying to learn.
I'll give you the method I use to figure out how much boost I can run. From there, you can try to apply it to yours.
I know you don't care what kind of setup I have, but its a must know if you're going to understand the tuning process and how everything ties together.
If I sound like I'm dumbing things down to much, its not my intent. I'm just explaining exactly what goes through my mind when I tune ANY car.
I installed a SAFCII to control the fuel injectors. I installed a MSD BTM to retard my timing on boost. I have a very efficient T3/TO4E .63 ar hotside and a 50 trim compressor wheel. This turbo is the most proven and runs exactly where the KA24DE should run. I have a MSD inline fuel pump and the S14 fuel pump and I have my base fuel pressure set to 55 psi. By setting the base fuel presure higher, I effectivly make my fuel injectors larger. I simply have to reduce the duty cycle a bit more as I would if I were running say 50lb injectors instead of the 42lb injectors I am currently running. The fuel pressure increase is done via an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I have a decent sized FMIC, the exact proportions elude me, its been awhile since the install.
Are you follwoing so far? My setup is goes like this.Aeromotive top feed fuel rail42lb injectorsT4/TO4E turboJGS type manifold(log style)SAFCIIMSD BTM
The first thing I did was set the BTM to pull out 1 full degree of timing per psi of boost. This is similar to what Enthalpy and JWT will do, except they use the ECU timing map. I'm not going to get into detail here, just take my word that its fairly close to the same thing. Reguardless, ignition retard on boost is very important.
My next step was to tune the car for proper idle. I have a wideband O2 meter. Without one, you simply can not tune a car properly. So I set the idle at about 15:1 AFR while idling. My next step was to lean out the off boost rpms but add fuel back in as the turbo spools up. I estimated that the turbo would spool by 3000rpm. So I pulled out fuel until that point, gradually increasing it until I hit 3000 rpm. Then I added fuel back in.
I drove the car around with the wide band hooked up, tracing the AFR's and tuning the SAFCII as I watched the mixture get to lean or to rich.
The tuning process takes a bit to get semi good. But I'm going to skip to where I had the fuel tuning set to where I wanted it. Which was about 11.5:1 AFR on boost and 15:1 at idle. There are alot of particulars I'm leaving out of SAFC tuning, but there isn't any need to go into those at the moment.
With the fuel set, I set my BTM to pull .5 degree's of timing per lb of boost. If the tuning is done semi decent, you don't need anymore retard then that.
Here's where you figure out how much boost you can run for your particular setup. You increase the boost while you're tuning. You'll reach a point where you can't add enough fuel to keep up with the boost. By that I mean, you can't keep the AFR where you want it. But that is running your unjectors close to 100%. So back the psi down 2 psi and that would be your max.
All of this depends on if you get knock also. If you get detonation, then you've rached the max point of somthing in your system. Perhaps the FMIC is heating up, or maybe you have reached the maximum boost for that octane fuel. Reguardless, thats the basics for tuning.
I hope that helps you understand what you're asking us.
WD