PS FLUID DIY

[JT_MONEY_2004]

First off let me tell you guys that NICO is a Godsend. I've been able to do so much more than i usually do and have done in the past. The fact that i learn how to and same money at the same time is awesome.

My next job is to do a PS flush and replace w/ Mobil 1 ATFQuests:1- do i need to relieve pressure from the system before i disconnect the return hose. (for the sake of asking, it's the one on the side right)

2- How much ATF will i need?

3- should i add conditioner?

[nuQ]

i know this is the long way, but i think i remember dennis saying it's sometimes better to gradually exchange some fluids, i dunno!!!! anyway, i just syphoned the old fluid in the resevoir and replaced with mobil 1. did this a couple times a week (maybe 4 or 5 times total) till the fluid was perfectly red.

[Q451990]

I have used the same method as nuQ... with a turkey baster. Then I just baster out the reservoir at every oil change and add fresh fluid for continuing maintenence.

Heath
Modified by Q451990 at 12:21 AM 3/8/2005

[DAEDALUS]

Do a ratio to see how much you have after x flushes. E.g., if you get 80% out each time, then after 2 flushes you have (.2x.2) = 4% old fluid, or 96% new fluid. Meaure out the amount removed and compare to full system capacity. Note that HICAS cars have ~2x as much fluid as non-HICAS, but reservoirs are the same. Maybe only 30-40% new fluid each time.

[maxnix]

Or you could use the Sun extraction machine. Like the transmission machine, it uses a baldder to continuously replace the ATF while it is being extracted. If this isn't done while the wheels are turned from max L to max R several times while exchanging the fluid, not all of it will be extracted and you will get air and damage your pump and/or rack when it runs low on fluid.

If the fluid is brownish now, you really need to do the hook-it-up to the lines full flush.

Either mechanical fluid replacement procedure is really cheaper than replacing the rack and/or pump. It is more thorough and faster too.