Proper procedure for BG Quick Clean and size of the oil passages on the VH45DE

[Infinitiguy19]

I have a couple of questions concering BG Quick clean and the VH45DE:

How small is the smallist oil passage on the VH45DE?

Does BG Quick Clean reqire thatyour pour BG MOA while BG Quick clean is cleaning the engine or after when the oil is changed?

Can I use BG Quick Clean in the original oil thats been in the engine for 2000 miles?

Will BG Quick Clean destroy any failing rings or seals?

I am going for an oil change on Monday so hopefully this solves another problem.

[Q45tech]

One application of Quick Clean won't usually fix much oil abuse, it often takes as many as you had bad oil changes [extended interval with inferior products].

The trick is to use FRESH OIL and FILTER so you can see any varnish transfer when you drain it 20 minutes later.

The product says to add MOA [Zinc DP] with QC to protect bearings.

I usually QC once per year and have for past 13 years.

The front and rear main seals are made of VITON.

When you wait until something/someone is 60 to start being good it can get expensive and a car has no medicare.

[yodawill2000]

"When you wait until something/someone is 60 to start being good it can get expensive and a car has no medicare."

Classic Trueism.

[cencia76]

Hi Q45tech,

we just bought a used car with 60k miles. I would like to take care of at my best with regular maintenance and oil changes. I have came across BG products and some users referred to your procedure and experience. I was thinking to use either the BG 109 or BG Quick Clean for Engines with MOA. Do you have any recommendation on how to use it? I have to admit that I am just learning how to do things on my own and I don't want to ruin the engine. How often should I use the cleaning additives and the MOA? Also are the oil filters all the same?

Lastly, should I switch to use synthetic oil later on?

Thank you and I am sorry for the many questions.

[Q45tech]

Oil doesnt break down and create varnish until it over ages or overheats.

After you clean the varnish off the components [now], if you follow frequent oil filter changes there is no need to ever clean varnishes again unless you ever allow the coolant to overheat the engine.

Thus 90 day oil changes becomes the most cost effective in the long run.90 day oil chages are much more effective than any aftermarket oil additive.90 day oil changes are better than any BG product.

Whether the trade offs of adding things like Zinc DDP [MOA] are useful depends on your chemical analysis of the base oil you regularly use as fill.

Too much ZDDP can degrade later year cats IF the rings are worn and oil is consumed.

[cencia76]

Hi Q45tech,

thank you for the reply. I am a bit confuse on how to use the BG109 or the QC from BG. I have found the following info in this forum. Would you have any comment about those two statements?

Statement 1: "bg 109 is it, the new stuff, you can use it with dirty oil before an oil change!!! I know, I know, dirty oil, but this stuff turns carbon into a waterlike substace! If your lifters are ticking and your engine vibrates a little; try it, but use bg MOA in your oil after this amazing stuff is drained."

Statement 2: "Get the following: 1 can of bg QC; 2 cans of bg MOA, FRESH CLEAN OIL (go buy cheap oil, and filters from wal mart). Add a HALF a can of quick clean and one can of bg MOA and follow the directions on the quick clean can (warm car, add QC, run for 10 15 minutes, change oil) and then repeat the foregoing proceduce RIGHT AWAY changing the oil WHILE ITS HOT each time. After the two flushes use your normal filter,oil and additive, but bg moa is some good additive. Why two flushes? Because if your too agressive, you could trash your engine!"

Do I have to follow procedure 2 even if I use BG109?

If you think that I should use QC, then do I need 3 can of MOA? 2 for the two flushes and 1 for the with the good oil?

Thank you for your help so far.

[Q45tech]

MOA is just oil with ZDDP in it/ Just incase the oil fails, the zinc offers a few minutes /seconds of protection.

Why almost all additives warn to keep rpms low and load low [very mild acceleration to low rpms].

I have driven on QC for 10 miles [home to shop] but I put QC in after a 10 minute warm up then drove mildly even up to 2400 rpms to shop for drain.Took me 20 minutes to drive 10 miles.

Until you actually experiment with varnish [inside valve covers] or disassembled parts you cannot comprehend exactly how difficult it is to remove varnish....................I've tried dozens of straight solvents heated and cooled.....................even an industrial power laser.

Radioactive source and xrays will make the aluminum brittle so don't bother.

[Infinitiguy19]

Is it okay to use BG 109 AKA Quick Clean every oil change or would something go bad overtime?

I have had some some sucsess with it, So I want to get the engine as clean as possible.

[Q45tech]

The question is what type and where is the material you are trying to clean/remove?

There are non Viton rubber seals in HLA and RTV that must be considered.QC won't magically remove varnish that has chemically bonded with aluminum alloys especially at the low 200-220F normal internal temperature at idle/cruise.

It is always important to view the inside of valve covers and heads to see what you are dealing with and to develop an attack plan.

[Infinitiguy19]

Well I am trying to get rid of the HLA noise when cold and when warm only if you put a mechanics stethoscope to the valve covers.

I liked your post on how to differentiate between the HLA noise and injector noise and that has help alot.

Yours is more of a click clunk than a tick. Easy to determine with a stethoscope where the sound is coming from injectors or valve covers. Once the HLA get crudded up it is very hard to get them clean again without spending $3,000 to replace them.

Valve Clatter Message 24207 Re: valve clatter on cold start q45tech The HLA [H lash adjusters] are bleeding down overnight as is the oil pressure you can try 0W-30 Mobile 1 and Something like BG Engine Quick Clean [a special varnish remover] and BG MOA added to oil after change. Or you might try a few 1,000 mile oil changes with regular high detergent oil. Common on much higher mile engines to have 1 or more of 32 HLA sticking. A few of the above treatments will usually cure the problem. What type of oil filter are you using -- factory? How often is Mobil 1 changed? Is the car parked overnight on level ground? Mostly a cold [below 32F] problem or year around since MN mornings rarely get above 70F?

[cencia76]

Hi Q45tech,

thank you for your answers. I have order some QC and I am going to try it out. Do I have to use MOA when I use it? I am going to do the following based on what you told me and what I got on this forum elsewhere.

I am going to warm up the engine 10 min. Ad half can of QC and then run it for 15 min. Can I drive the car during these 15 min? If so then I will drive it around. After that I will flush it. Change oil and filter, warm up and then add the second half of QC. run it for 15 min and then flush it again. Then put good oil and a can of moa for this first change. Does this sound good to you?

It was very funny what you wrote in the last reply. Thank you for the humor.

Massi.

[Q45tech]

I live 10 miles 2 stopsigns and 24 redlights from shop with 9 miles of I 75/I285 in between.I crank car warm up for 3 minutes, pour in QC, then wait 5 minutes until idle in down to normal then drive slowly [at speed limit no accelrations] to shop and idle until drain...................a hot method but it keeps varnish in suspension. Sometimes it takes 15-20 minutes to cool enough for a filter change.

The MOA is just zinc which is an emergency final step if the oil pressure falls or a slug of QC passes a bearing before getting fully diluted.

Don't expect miracles until after a few applications. Varnish is a tough muther to reduce much less clean.