Here is the original german (from VW oil guidance), which I will translate+explain.I include the original so interested members can check the source:
"Warnhinweis: Longlife-Öle dürfen auf keinen Fall in Motoren eingefüllt werden, die dafür nicht zugelassen sind. Die Hochtemperatur-Viskosität ist bei diesem Öl wesentlich geringer als bei bisher üblichen Ölen. Bei nicht darauf ausgelegten Motoren ist dann bei hohen Öltemperaturen und hohen Drehzahlen keine ausreichende Schmierung mehr sichergestellt."My humble translation which members are free to check via software:
Warning: "long-life" oils (which in germany is various 30 weights, Fred) may under no circumstance be used in engines that are not cleared for them.The hi temperature viscosity with these oils is much lower than with the other commonly used oils (in Europe this means, 0w-40,5w-40, 10w-40 for most cars including VW, Fred).With many engines one cannot rely on proper lubrication with tehse oils, during hi rpms and hi oil temps.
AHA!
Summary:long-life motor oils in Germany/France/UK are usually 30 weights (easier to make a stable oil w/o the VII's), what this says; it warns the consumer to limit the use of these oils, to engines that can work with this thin weight and/or are not used at hi oil temps+revs.
Keep in mind that many engines that in Europe need 40 weight oils are advertised here as needing 5w-30!!!!
This is yet another manufacturer admitting that 30 weight oils dont protect properly in many engines and under higher loads.
Hmmm, I wonder how many engines where the dealer here fills in 5w-30 , would be considered unsuitable for these weights in Europe?....
maybe engine longevity is more important than CAFE?
I think nearly all large manufacturers in the USDM market currently "recommend" 5w-30 for nearly all of their engines.
Which again:These are the oils that meet some of the toughest specs, not a single 30 weight among them:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....229.1
Fred....:thinker
PROOF that the "thin oil is ok", BS, <is> BS!!
soooooo.......what your saying is...........damit I did it again....I lost my train of thought. Oh ya.........never mind. j/k. So basically what we need is a heavier weight (such as 10w-40)on average for our applications(turbo or other high performance vehicles) Iv'e read pretty much all of your post on oils and such. I love your explanations. They just have to be read over and over to absorb the mucho info. I have to pull the drain plug on my brain to drain the spent beer first. I use 12w-12 Bud1 for my high performance sex machine nights. Seriously, I think most of us on the board use mobil1 of somesort. I live in Texas and I normally use 10w40 or 30 but after reading a few of your last few oil finds I have thought of switching back to synpower. I think my motor ran quiter when I was using it. Of course this is irrelevant due to mileage, abuse, hard drives etc the car has gone thru in the past. In Texas-long summers and short winter only getting a couple of freeze days in Dallas what would you use on of course an sr? 0w-40 mobil one or synpower 5w-40. Im thinking maybe synpower again. Thanks.
depends how are you driving.Do any autoXing? quarter miling?run a turbo (SR20DET)?Then MOBIL1 15w-50 sounds like a good idea.
I run MOBIL1 0w-40 year round in KY and will trust it for the occasional quarter miling and 110 mph run.Its an oil that can be used for hot and /or performance apps as well..I would stay away from the MOBIL1 30 weights especially in a Texas summers, as they tend to run thin even for 30weights.
SynPower is also a good oil, I like its detergency compared to MOBIL1.
On a clean engine I run M1 0w-40, a bit dirtier engine I'd run VSynPower 5w-40, in Turbo application in summer I'd run a 50 weight, such as a 15w-50.
In Dallas I would either run M1 0w-40 all year, OR 15w-50 in spring summer fall and 0w-40 in winter.
Fred..
BTW: Mobil1 0w-40 is the only oil currently sold in USA that is certified to meet MB229.5.
I run MOBIL1 0w-40 year round in KY and will trust it for the occasional quarter miling and 110 mph run.Its an oil that can be used for hot and /or performance apps as well..I would stay away from the MOBIL1 30 weights especially in a Texas summers, as they tend to run thin even for 30weights.
SynPower is also a good oil, I like its detergency compared to MOBIL1.
On a clean engine I run M1 0w-40, a bit dirtier engine I'd run VSynPower 5w-40, in Turbo application in summer I'd run a 50 weight, such as a 15w-50.
In Dallas I would either run M1 0w-40 all year, OR 15w-50 in spring summer fall and 0w-40 in winter.
Fred..
BTW: Mobil1 0w-40 is the only oil currently sold in USA that is certified to meet MB229.5.
OK, Fred, now ya got me freaking out.
I'm pretty sure 5w30 dino oil is in my car now. I'm about to get the oil changed - what should I go with? I do quite a bit of spirited driving and these days, with the temps being what they are, I'm sure my car's suffering.
Also, can I request a different type oil be used in the engine if I get it done at the dealer? Will that cause any issues with them with regards to warranty repairs (on the engine) down the road?
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure 5w30 dino oil is in my car now. I'm about to get the oil changed - what should I go with? I do quite a bit of spirited driving and these days, with the temps being what they are, I'm sure my car's suffering.
Also, can I request a different type oil be used in the engine if I get it done at the dealer? Will that cause any issues with them with regards to warranty repairs (on the engine) down the road?
Thanks!
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Rockenreno
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I too am changing my oil soon. Since I am too lazy to search through all the "what oil should I use?" threads right now I'll just ask Fred the same question. I drive a '96 240sx, live in Sacramento (getting upwards of 110 degrees these days) and basically drive for commute, not much hard driving (Well, commute sucks spending upwards of an hour in first gear, blech). What do you recommend oh mighty oil wizard?
PS, car has 99k miles on it, stock KA24 engine.
PS, car has 99k miles on it, stock KA24 engine.
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Nismo_Freak
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- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
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Cold_Zero
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- Car: 2003 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
2005 Nissan Pathfinder
I run Mobile 1 15w-50 in my WRX. I will have to revisit this issue some winter.
The Altima get Valvoline Durablend 10w-40. I just changed the oil today and I have to say Nissan did a horrible job laying out the new Altimas. Pulling the drain plug is fine, but when you remove the filter, the oil drains on to a cross member. How messy and annoying. I do have to say the Subaru is one of the easiest cars to change the oil in.
The Altima get Valvoline Durablend 10w-40. I just changed the oil today and I have to say Nissan did a horrible job laying out the new Altimas. Pulling the drain plug is fine, but when you remove the filter, the oil drains on to a cross member. How messy and annoying. I do have to say the Subaru is one of the easiest cars to change the oil in.
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Cold_Zero
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- Car: 2003 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
2005 Nissan Pathfinder
To be honest, what is with dealerships now that hassle you when you do your own maintenance? My next-door neighbor has a Dodge Ram 1500 and the oil pump went out due to sludge. They tried to blame it on him stating that he didn’t change the oil at the proper intervals. He told them they did the oil changes and if they didn’t fix it, he would drive the Ram through the show room window! The guy has bought 4-5 cars from this dealership. This is not the first time I have heard of a dealership doing this.
It makes me worry that I do my own oil changes and if something goes wrong with the car, Nissan will blame me for not servicing the car. I am keeping all my receipts for oil and filter purchases and I have created a maintenance logbook. Can anyone else think of something that will help prove that I have changed my oil ever 3k mi?
bud
It makes me worry that I do my own oil changes and if something goes wrong with the car, Nissan will blame me for not servicing the car. I am keeping all my receipts for oil and filter purchases and I have created a maintenance logbook. Can anyone else think of something that will help prove that I have changed my oil ever 3k mi?
bud
95silviase wrote:Fred, whats a good way to help get rid of some sludge??
cheap way:
Run .75 quarts of MOBIL1 ATF for 40-60 minutes idling (or gentle driving <immediately > before your oil change in your crankcase (Q drivers may use 1 full quart).
Expensive way:Get an envirolution or MotoVac engine flush.This will run strong detergents and back flush against the oil pick-up screen.
Look for those, at large Toyota dealers, as Toyota has a lot of sludge prone engines, so they are more likely to carry these machines. cost about $120
Or do both.
Fred...
MetaOrbit wrote:1)what should I go with? I do quite a bit of spirited driving and these days, with the temps being what they are, I'm sure my car's suffering.2)Also, can I request a different type oil be used in the engine if I get it done at the dealer? 3)Will that cause any issues with them with regards to warranty repairs (on the engine) down the road?
1) depending on your oil budget either Valvoline Durablend 10w-40 ($2.40/q) or MOBIL1 0w-40 ($4.99/Q).Both oils have a history of producing good UOA 's in Nissan engines, specifically VQ series.Also Pennzoil 10w-40 is a group II+ oil at $1.50 an incredible value and a good performer.2)Yes, but you may have to pay for the upgrade, or likely bring it in yourself, w/ no credit for oil the dealer saved by u brining your own.3)No, as long as you use SL rated oils you are fine, all the oils I recommed are SL rated.
Fred....
Rockenreno wrote:What do you recommend oh mighty oil wizard?PS, car has 99k miles on it, stock KA24 engine.
Rock:The same recomendations as I gave Metaorbit for his VQ N/A engine apply to your KA N/A engine.Except as an addition, I might give M1 15w-50 also quite a bit of consideration, due to the demands of your hi temp summer driving and the slightly greater clearances expected in a older KA engine, vs the newer VQ35de in Meta's Infiniti.
Fred...
Cold_Zero wrote:1)It makes me worry that I do my own oil changes and if something goes wrong with the car, Nissan will blame me for not servicing the car. 2)I am keeping all my receipts for oil and filter purchases and I have created a maintenance logbook. Can anyone else think of something that will help prove that I have changed my oil ever 3k mi?
1) Your engine is not known for sludge issues and Nissan is more of a class act in those things than Dodge.2)This is entirely suffcient, no further steps need to be taken on your part.
Fred...
And while I find 30weights are likely too thin for many of our applications, here is an example of 30 weight, vs even thinner lately propagated oil, the 20 weight:Pasted from an oil board:
"I was recently speaking with the maintenance foreman of our county vehicle shop. He keeps in contact with his counterparts in other counties and says that they've had engines blowing in their sheriff's new Crown Vics when using 5W-20 oil. He's been using 5W-30 and has had no engine problems. These engines are not under warranty due to the type of service. It does indeed seem that the switch to 5w-20 is to chase a fraction of an mpg to benefit Ford's C.A.F.E. penalty payments."
Fred...
"I was recently speaking with the maintenance foreman of our county vehicle shop. He keeps in contact with his counterparts in other counties and says that they've had engines blowing in their sheriff's new Crown Vics when using 5W-20 oil. He's been using 5W-30 and has had no engine problems. These engines are not under warranty due to the type of service. It does indeed seem that the switch to 5w-20 is to chase a fraction of an mpg to benefit Ford's C.A.F.E. penalty payments."
Fred...
Hey Fred how are you doing? I have an oil question for you as well. Currently in both of my Ford Probes (one turbo, one NA) I am using Amsoil 5W30 in both cars. I live in Indiana and run this oil year round. I will have an SR20DET in my new 240, what oil should I run in there during summer/winter? It will be Amsoil as I have found it to be one of the best. Thanks.
AMSOIL has quite a following and it is beyond the scope of this board ( and frankly beyond my abilities as well) to determine which is a better buy AMSOIL or MOBIL...
But luckily you ask about viscosities only.
For the turbo 10w-40 AMSOIL is a great choice. AMSOIL makes a 10w-40 and it contains a lot of ZDDP ( anti wear additive that bad for catalysts so non API certified)For the winter I would like to recommend M1 in 0w-40 but alas since you say, you only look for recommendations in viscosities that AMSOIL carries; the 0w-30/5w-30 AMSOIL would be the best choice given those parameters.
Fred..
But luckily you ask about viscosities only.
For the turbo 10w-40 AMSOIL is a great choice. AMSOIL makes a 10w-40 and it contains a lot of ZDDP ( anti wear additive that bad for catalysts so non API certified)For the winter I would like to recommend M1 in 0w-40 but alas since you say, you only look for recommendations in viscosities that AMSOIL carries; the 0w-30/5w-30 AMSOIL would be the best choice given those parameters.
Fred..
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blink0r
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What oil would be the best in my car? Im from saskatchewan, canada... so the heat here isn't too bad (100 degrees at most usually). I don't drive my car hard (auto x, racing)... just theoccasional "rev up to 6k". I'm running 10w-30 and i believe its penzoil... however, i heard that changing oil viscosities can cause problems. Have you heard of anything like this happening? I don't think i'd need to run 10w-50, because we don't have teh high temps here that texas has, so i'm guessing i should stick with that i have?
Once again another quote from an oil discussion (not me):
"You guys should check out manufacturer's recommended viscosities for cars sold in the US versus the exact same car sold overseas.
One such example is the new Civic Si in the States. Honda USA recommends 5w20 (their house brand is a semi-syn) or Mobil 1 0w20. For the EXACT same car sold in England (it's actually produced there and imported to the US) that's called the Civic Type-S, Honda UK recommends semi-syn or full synthetic 10w-40 oil.
Guess which recommendation was made by bean-counters with no concern for engine wear past their 3yr/36,000 mile powertrain warranty and guess which one was made by the engineers who designed the car. "
Fred...
"You guys should check out manufacturer's recommended viscosities for cars sold in the US versus the exact same car sold overseas.
One such example is the new Civic Si in the States. Honda USA recommends 5w20 (their house brand is a semi-syn) or Mobil 1 0w20. For the EXACT same car sold in England (it's actually produced there and imported to the US) that's called the Civic Type-S, Honda UK recommends semi-syn or full synthetic 10w-40 oil.
Guess which recommendation was made by bean-counters with no concern for engine wear past their 3yr/36,000 mile powertrain warranty and guess which one was made by the engineers who designed the car. "
Fred...