Project Sky40

[yotik]

i was talking to my friend about it and he said there is a bracket you can buy for the ka compresser and then just extend the stock lines. im gunna wait till it gets a little warmer to actually gut under my car and check it out though.

dude that would be awesome keep me updated i would love to find out how that works for you...

the swap is coming along nice im digging the colors im in the process of painting mine all red

thanks man. i am so tempted to repaint the intake cold pipe and upper mani all black...

hey man,ur RB is comin out great im doing my RB swap also and will neva do a swap in the winter again//lol,.....but i gotta quick question i wanna knw were u downloaded the FSM from?

uh its on here. i found it in the search but heres the link:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Everything you need should be on this site. Happy reading

[1GayDrifter]

sweet motor, just dont push it past 400 hp. ur rb20 head will s*** bricks.

[yotik]

haha! I was shooting for 350hp. good to know

[yotik]

she runs! Got it running today! WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

doesnt idle very well at all any help guys and seeing white smoke by the downpipe not sure what these problems are yet. One guess is a vacuum leak? Any other suggestions?

[RustspecS13]

That's awesome I just got my swap running too.

Its good to finally get it running that's for sure.

I cant help you with the vac leak since I have no piping connected and no maf connected yet

But the white smoke could be oil burning off or oils burning off the exhaust. Or possibly bigger problems...but give it a few minuets and possibly compression test it.

~Alex

[Carl H]

glad to hear it runs...is your intake track complete?these engines typically wont run much less idle if its not complete.

[yotik]

That's awesome I just got my swap running too.

Its good to finally get it running that's for sure.

I cant help you with the vac leak since I have no piping connected and no maf connected yet

But the white smoke could be oil burning off or oils burning off the exhaust. Or possibly bigger problems...but give it a few minuets and possibly compression test it.

~Alex

I know exactly what you mean its been a long time coming to get it goin.

But i wonder why this white smoke is coming out by the turbo after the car is off. i mean the turbo had almost no shaft or side to side. hopefully the turbo isnt shot. im gonna take the lines off and look. all i have hooked up is the dump pipe could it be the o2 sensor not working?

[yotik]

glad to hear it runs...is your intake track complete?these engines typically wont run much less idle if its not complete.

carl i owe you a BIG THANKS with the wiring. you saved me a ton of guesswork. yeah it was stubborn to start even with the maf disconnected. i havent bolted down the intake plenum and i may have a clamp or two loose in the intercooler cold pipe. i cant remember if i hooked up the vac canister either. ill check those and see what happens. any advice on the white smoke? the smoke is coming out around the turbo heat sheild. doesnt seem to be coming out of the dump pipe. its not a ton of smoke but i noticed it the last time i shut it off.
Modified by yotik at 10:17 PM 5/22/2009

[yotik]

you guys were right, with the piping secured the idle came down quite a bit. ill post some pics and hopefully a vid shortly. still idling rough but a lot better than before...

[yotik]

heres some more recent pics, might post a camera phone vid soon:

[RustspecS13]

Where did you get that fmic? Ive been looking for that one on ebay and I cant find it. I want one asap so I can sell my smic piping to a guy and get rid of my heat soaking wonder.

Also what are you doing for fans? I don't see any pusher fans.

~Alex

[yotik]

well im not driving it yet. i plan on running some slim pushers since pullers wont fit. probably 2 spals.

the one i got was for the 79-93 ford mustang. not the one with the 5.0 but the turbo 6 cyl. theres one on ebay search for 79-93 mustang intercooler. this is a temporary setup til i get a better job

[yotik]

um heres a janky youtube vid of the test drive. nothin special so bear with me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itvd-PtkT7k

[Cleveland180]

great thread, I hope you get everything sorted out! I just dropped my rb20 in last weekend, and I am hoping to have the upper wiring done in time for a fire up before the 4th.

[yotik]

good luck man thats great. show us pics when youre done and keep in touch.

[yotik]

updates:

-ordered gp sports 3pc wing and roof spoiler. should be here next week.

-potenza pole positions mounted.

-carlh ecu tune underway.

-holset hx35w clocked and ready to install.





-rb25 side recirc valve pipe for better hood clearance

near-future plans:

-still need to buy fittings for holset. the turbo is oil cooled so i need to block off the water feed and return.

-dump pipe fabrication to mate 3" exhaust

-550cc injectors (possibly deatschwerks)

-gp sports front bumper or pignose front lip

-side skirts

-tint windows

-a/f ratio gauge and boost controller (safc? yes no?)

-1pc driveshaft

-j30 diff

-tein flex system

-new fenders

-look for new wheels

-sell my kidney to pay for this (i kidding)

current goal is 350hp

pics asap!

[RustspecS13]

That's awesome nice to see some progress with the rb!

Sadly Ive blown my RB20 twice since you and I got both of ours running. But it'll be back and running better then ever.

I did break my ceramic exhaust wheel while I was inspecting the turbo to make sure it wasn't blowing oil. So I got a HX30! I'm going to rebuild it to make sure I don't have any problems. I'm expecting it to spool similar to stock and make alot more top end, and be capable of 30psi efficiently.

I really need to make my own build thread heh. I need to find all my pics first as they are on 2 or 3 different computers.

Have you gotten the drive shaft yet? I'm really wanting a 1pc as well I think it would be a big improvement.

~Alex

[yotik]

no not yet. i really need to do that soon. no way the stocker will live @ 350hps!I looked at the hx30, make a thread so i can see how that turns out. Ill probably do a new clutch, driveshaft and j30 diff while im under there.

[yotik]

updates:

got the 550cc injectors a couple weeks ago



and:

CarlH rom tuned ecu ()

Looking to install w/ custom dump pipe in the next month or 2 ill post the outcome. still havent decided on the manifold and plumbing yet.

Near future upgrades:

j30 diff

safcII

1pc driveshaft

suspension (all around)

and maybe diamond star wheels

[legit240sx]

woot woot!Always fun to open some freash parts its like a drug just want more!Glad to see you doin good. have fun with the diff swap, actually swapin diff was prob one of the funnest things to do....Got my deatchwerks about a month ago so stickin sweet. keep it up bro

[yotik]

[Coombs]

keep it up.

[yotik]

Well...

Finally got the new setup on... but I ran into some minor delays. The fried ecu we tried to repair didn't quite work out. So, I'll be needing a new one. Everything else went pretty good. For now I have converted back to the stock setup with a boost controller. Here are some pics of what it will look like:

[ghost_22_47]

Nice build man keep us all updated

[yotik]

well, here are the most recent updates (for those who care lol)

decided to go black with the paint scheme. ditching the dingy white, but not done yet:







got the tune back from carl, still having some oddities with the new setup. i was only able to start the car in limp mode w/ maf disconnctd. after pulling it out of garage and parking it, wouldnt start again. checked fuses, fuel pump fuse was blown (walbro 255lph). converted back to stock fpr, checkd plugs and plugs were a bit fouled. replaced plugs, reassembled--- still wont start. not hearing fuel pump prime consistently, and now it sounds really strange, almost like a grinding/ rumbling sound. removed fuel pump and tested, putting out .6 on the voltmeter. fuel pump works off of a 12v source so now im stumped. i only replaced the ecu and fpr since the last time it was running. injectors were working before. any ideas??? possibly looking @ finding a stock ecu to see if thats the issue or alternate fuel pump. im stumped

[Carl H]

sounds like a bad fuel pump to me tbh...and did that ecu that you sent to me?
i know it had a jumper wire on ecu that you asked me to solder a new wire in the burnt traces place...

[yotik]

sounds like a bad fuel pump to me tbh...and did that ecu that you sent to me?
i know it had a jumper wire on ecu that you asked me to solder a new wire in the burnt traces place...

sup carl. you know, i checked the spark plugs and they are not firing (brand new ngks). im getting fuel, cause i can see the pistons are wet (light film of fuel), and i can hear clicking when i crank it. plus, the once clean plugs now smell like fuel, and i hear the fuel pump priming sometimes. im thinking its the ignitor, or something i havent figured out yet. do i need to upgrade the ignitor w this setup? i really dont think its the ecu because it was working before i sent it to you, and i started and drove it out of the garage (unless you messed up lol j/k). so far ive:

replaced eccs relay
replaced fuel pump relay
replace fuel pump fuse 10a
replaced 2 green relays near ecu

let the mouse hunt begin... any tips?


update: ignition relay (brown) appears to be faulty. will replace and post results...

[yotik]

ignition relay is good. i can hear it click and still no spark...

[Carl H]

check the ecu for codes...thats where i would start first.
Also are any fuses or fusable links blown?

The stock ignitor should be just fine with your setup, I've ran up to 26psi with no breakup out of the plugs.
Have you changed anything other than bolt on the hx?

How is the connection on the CAS plug, I have seen cars not run due to a CAS plug not being fully seated.

[yotik]

check the ecu for codes...thats where i would start first.
Also are any fuses or fusable links blown?

The stock ignitor should be just fine with your setup, I've ran up to 26psi with no breakup out of the plugs.
Have you changed anything other than bolt on the hx?

How is the connection on the CAS plug, I have seen cars not run due to a CAS plug not being fully seated.

No, nothing was changed but the ecu, fpr and hx35 and injectors

what a relief though,i figured it out...

when i tried to crank the motor, the plugs werent lighting because all those failed starts led to a dead battery (though it was cranking, not enough amperage).
after letting the car sit til last night, the plugs began to light. then when i charged the battery, it started right up. drove it around the block and it wont spool very much under load, but does spool in the driveway (dont worry, I only allowed it to slowly spool to about 3k rpm max), which appears to be lacking fuel. especially since the fuel pressure gauge reads 30psi, which aint right. so i think carl you were right about the fuel pump after all.
idles PERFECT after startup though (Thanks CARL!!!)

so heres what i think happened

-i installed a crappy fpr (rookie mistake #29)
-fuel pressure gauge was reading wacky (60psi, then 38psi, then 0 psi, then 50psi etc...)
-this caused the fuel system to fail (fuel pump fuse, and the fuel pump unfortunately)
-not sure if ignition relay was bad to begin with, maybe it was but its working now
-when i removed the faulty fpr, replaced blown fuses, fusable links, relays, and installed the stock fpr, i eliminated the problem

Now all i need to do is buy a new walbro, and get it to the tune shop for a fine tune. i dont own a wideband yet, so this is what im left with. i wont be driving the car until i can get it fine tuned with the new walbro, but at least its starting consistently. Thanks again to carl, and nico for making this project possible. I truly appreciate it. Next plans are suspension, and more supporting mods like driveshaft, clutch (obviously), radiator, and useful fpr. more updates soon.

any recommendations from here?