project ka24dett is unconscious

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andrave
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some people have been asking me about how my twin turbo project has been going.well, we swapped and everything, and bolted an exhaust manifold up and ran the mafs by the TB and I could not get it to start. I had to leave for texas the next day. I did not get to try anything and I'm not sure the wiring is all good. I had a couple light green wires left over on the body harness connector, and a plug on the sohc transmission harness didn't plug in. there was also a ground wire on the pass. side of the dohc block that didn't have anywhere to go, its under the intake manifold. Its worth noting I used a 92 ka24DE engine harness, wired it into the sohc body plug, and used the sohc transmission/subharness. I also eliminated the emissions equipment.

also, I followed JWT's wiring instructions for z32 mafs, but I am confused. one of the z32 plug wires is significantly thicker than the rest, and then on the opposite side of the plug there are two wires together in a common white sheath (one black, one white).the jwt instructions say the black in that sheath is a ground, the white is the signal, and the thick wire is +12 volts. I wired it this way, but it is possible that the thicker wire is the signal wire, and the two that share the sheath are ground/positive?

I am sure I am getting spark (checked with timing gun) and we can smell the fuel, but I'm not sure the injectors are injecting because when cranking there was no fuel coming out of the exhaust manifold. I thought that if the injectors were cycling and the engine not turning over, its likely that at least a small amount of fuel would be pushed through the cyls and out the exhaust, no?

Anyway I won't get to work on it for a while because its under a tarp in WV and I'm in TX, but with some help and a little more work maybe it will see some pavement sometime.

I also had just purchased brand new falken azenis tires... and I never even got to test their super stickiness.

:-(


fastpace
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That sucks man. Hopefully you will get it running whenever you get a chance. Where at in Texas are you?

andrave
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houston... UH law.I live by hobby airport on broadway.

S13ChucKAT
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welcome to hell.. i mean houston.. :(

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Red-KAT
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Damn... I wanted to see the KA24DETT run.

I use to live is Houston, TX... Sucks.

Big Manne
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i think i would like Screwston. why dont yall?

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GEO
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yeh, i was hoping for the TT FURY

S13ChucKAT
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Honestly, are you trying to use 2 maf's?..that might be the problem.. otherwise, I would have stuck to the stock KA maf.. just to get the car running. Of course it would be a blow-through maf setup... did you check all fuses and stuff?

andrave
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what are you talking about?it clearly states on my page:(1) z32 mafsJWT ecu tuned for Z32 mafs

fuses are fine

S13ChucKAT
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OOO i missread, Z32 mafs.. i was reading it was plural aka MAF's.. srry for the confusion.

andrave
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mafs- Mass Air Flow Sensor. but there is just one. Does the ECU even read the mafs when it is starting/idling? the idle air control valve is responsible for idling the engine, so if it was the mafs, isn't it more likely that it would start but run like poop?

Altiman94
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correct. pull out a plug and ground it on the car somewhere to make sure you are getting spark. Also, take out an injector and see if it is shooting fuel. That's how you isolate your problems.

nab911
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Yeah, pull ecu codes... Tell us exactly what it does. Does it fire, does it try...

Pornflakes
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Sounds like it's time to go with a standalone engine management. Provided the funds, you should seriously consider that option. It will effectively clear your headaches. Moreover, if you'd like to extract the true power of a KA24DETT (and you should), then standalone engine management is the only way.

The new TEC3r system, for example, only needs to read crank signal (through the MAG sensor), the manifold pressure (through the MAP sensor), and manifold air temperature (through the MAT sensor), in order to provide your engine with fuel and spark. No fiddle farting around with MAFS. In addition, it will include the most powerful and accurate ignition system you can buy your car (and it's multi-coil, thus distributorless).

Projex240
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standalone isnt necessary. the only thing different is that the turbo setup has two instead of one big one. The tuning from jwt should be fine.

You said that the car would not start. By this do you mean it wont start at all( like doesnt even turn over, it just clicks)--or starts and dies, or tries to start but cant get to kick over completely.

My thoughts would go back to that harness. Using the SOHC transmission i dont think would be the problem. A freind of mine used a SOHC transmission when switching to the DOHC motor same as you and used a 92 harness just like you as well. I think its a wiring problem with the harness, and Id look into the ground. It may or may not play a roll here. Check the wiring to the starter and make sure its ground properly, as well as the ignition wires. Dont give up===

Also--a standalone may be acutally a good idea if you have alot of money to spend, but not necessary IMO. Check out the AEM ems thats supposedly to be released soon.

Let us know.

Thanks,

Josh

andrave
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I already have the JWT ecu. it was expensive. I don't want engine management that I have to tune. Like it was stated, the ECU doesn't care what is causing the boost, 1, 2, or 20 turbos.

It IS getting spark, I said that already. I don't know if it is throwing codes, I didn't have time to check the ECU, and of course the consult plug won't work with a DE swap.

When I said it wouldn't turn over, it cranks but it goes "bup bup bup bup bup" as it cranks (doesn't sound like it normally would cranking). And like I said, I cranked and cranked and tried diff. stuff till the battery was low and still no gasoline was leaking out of the open exhaust manifold. I would think if it was injecting it would be forcing gasoline out the exhaust valves and it would then travel down and out the manifold. But what do I know?

Also I didn't have a + or - on the top feeds I got so I just wired them in. I wired them all the same, because I was told the polarity doesn't matter. If it DOES matter, then that could explain it, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't.

andrave
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oh yeah, and another really weird thing:

when I put the shifter back in the DE transmission... when it is supposed to be in neutral its in gear, and you have to push in the clutch to get it to not be in gear. You can't put it in any gear (with the clutch in or out) except where 5th would be.I don't know what the deal is with that, this transmission was out of my friends car and he said it worked fine when he took it out. I may just switch it with my 89 transmission if I can't figure out why it is being so weird.

Projex240
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sorry if this is insulting--lol--but you didnt put the shifter in backwards did you?

Oh--and injectors arent polarized. Theya re firing and loading up and thats whats causing it to load up--OR you have an injectors leak, which will suck too.

I hope you get it figured out--good news is, its prolly something simple. Check the plugs to see if theya re firing.

later

-Josh

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klattr1
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sounds like the distributor is off a tooth.

andrave
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I was very careful to get it aligned exactly with #1 at tdc... I used the FSM and that picture you posted up.And I tried changing timing from one extreme to the other but it made no difference at all.It could still be off though, but I was very careful and took my time, trying to line it up right the first time.

also, the shifter is isntalled the right way and it is sparking.


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