Hey everybody, its good to be back on nico. i recently just moved from VA back into western NY. Im now living in Buffalo and finally got some time to start working on the car again. I was hoping leaving the project alone for a while would make the problems go away, but they havent, so im back here asking for some more input:)
First off, when the car is running, the transmission will not go into gear. I thought at first i may have put the clutch disk in backwards so i dropped the transmission and flipped that around, but it still wont go. the clutch fork has pressure on it and moves fine when the pedal is pressed. It goes into gear fine when its not running, so its def a clutch problem. Any other ideas of what could be causeing this problem?
Also. The car still refuses to idle. I got all excited today when i started it up for the first time in a while cause it was idling decently. After it warmed up a bit however it was jumping all over the place. Does this mean it could be a temp sensor? or does it at least rule out the option of it being the MAF? Ive checked and double checked 15 million times for a vaccuum leak and everything is connected well so im ruling the whole vaccuum leak out for the time being.
On a brighter note, i got the A31 sway bar to clear pretty well. had to shim a little bit, but clears a lot better than the stock swaybar.
Its good to be back into this project even though its been a pain from the start. Please help if you can.
project from hell...continued
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yellow_jacket
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:43 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
Re: project from hell...continued (rb250sx)
Do you still have the damper box in the hydraulic system? More than likely you still have air in the system.
As far as the not idling, Have you put a vacuum gauge on it yet? Is it fluctuating? Holding steady at how many mmHg? Is it running rich at idle?
What all have you done to diagnose this problem? Let us know so we can help you a little more.
As far as the not idling, Have you put a vacuum gauge on it yet? Is it fluctuating? Holding steady at how many mmHg? Is it running rich at idle?
What all have you done to diagnose this problem? Let us know so we can help you a little more.
What you need to do with the clutch problem is get a friend. Then, with the engine running, press the clutch pedal in and look to see if the slave cylinder is moving the fork. If not, then it is either air in the lines or a bad master/slave cylinder.
Regarding your idling problem, it seems to be "sensor" related. It may be the MAF, IACV, etc etc. Based on the fact that it is idling ok during ECU open loop (warm-up) and then running bad when it reaches closed loop, it definitely is "sensor" related. Test the MAF and let us know. Compare the numbers with the FSM....
Regarding your idling problem, it seems to be "sensor" related. It may be the MAF, IACV, etc etc. Based on the fact that it is idling ok during ECU open loop (warm-up) and then running bad when it reaches closed loop, it definitely is "sensor" related. Test the MAF and let us know. Compare the numbers with the FSM....
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streetspirit7
- Posts: 559
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 8:35 pm
- Car: '97 240sx
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goofynick6
- Posts: 1216
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 9:58 am
- Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET
Hey Fritz, good to hear from ya!
About the clutch, did you swap the pilot bushing? IF not, that sounds like the problem, has to be a manual trans bushing put in just the proper way. The clutch disk should only fit properly one way. Rebleed the slave cylinder and check like they said.
I had a lot of idling issues, mine were mostly TPS related, but I swapped to a manual trans ecu and not sure yet if that was the fix, but it helped. Make sure your idle air controller is wired properly and working or you'll never idle right. Check the coolant temp sensor and if the car revs over 2500 rpms it's probably not the MAF.
Lemme know man
Nick
About the clutch, did you swap the pilot bushing? IF not, that sounds like the problem, has to be a manual trans bushing put in just the proper way. The clutch disk should only fit properly one way. Rebleed the slave cylinder and check like they said.
I had a lot of idling issues, mine were mostly TPS related, but I swapped to a manual trans ecu and not sure yet if that was the fix, but it helped. Make sure your idle air controller is wired properly and working or you'll never idle right. Check the coolant temp sensor and if the car revs over 2500 rpms it's probably not the MAF.
Lemme know man
Nick
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rb250sx
- Posts: 292
- Joined: Wed Jul 16, 2003 4:32 pm
- Car: '89 s13 w/ RB25DET
'07 Nissan Frontier
'14 Jeep Rubicon
Re: (goofynick6)
the form is moving fine, thats why i swapped the clutch around. both the clutch and pressure plate are new so i dont think thats the problem. Im using the stock flywheel, i dont beleive there was a pilot bearing in there. I wont be able to mess with it til next weekend, but ill def check some of these things out. Either way i guess ill be dropping the transmission again ahhah.
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yellow_jacket
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:43 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
Re: (rb250sx)
On some vehicles, the pilot bushing actually installs into the crankshaft.
As for the clutch disc, it should only install one way. One side is flat, the other is raised about an inch. The raised side fits into the pressure plate and the flat side goes against the flywheel.
But Like some others have implied, how do you know there is enough movement in the clutch fork?
As for the clutch disc, it should only install one way. One side is flat, the other is raised about an inch. The raised side fits into the pressure plate and the flat side goes against the flywheel.
But Like some others have implied, how do you know there is enough movement in the clutch fork?