Never use test lights anymore, these can actually do damage to the computer system if not used properly, or possibly set-off your air bags. Did you not say that you work at an audio shop? I hope you guys are not still using test lights, that is back in the 80's!!!Kolk1 wrote:Without going out and checking to tell you for sure, grab a test light, and see what fuses have voltage with the key in the ON position, and No voltage with the key not in the ignition. Then tap into that fuse.
I wired my Nuvi and detector to the auxillary outlet between the seats. It is switched by the ignition.CodeRed wrote:thanks for the reply, do you know of any fuse's that turn on and off with ignition? or parking lights?
I also used this source for power for my trailer lights since it's a larger 15A circuit.c5neb wrote:
I wired my Nuvi and detector to the auxillary outlet between the seats. It is switched by the ignition.
i will agree on this point. a digital multimeter is the way to go with our cars. they are more expensive than a test light but not near as expensive as replacing an air bag or airbags in our case.Clipsed wrote:Never use test lights anymore, these can actually do damage to the computer system if not used properly, or possibly set-off your air bags. Did you not say that you work at an audio shop? I hope you guys are not still using test lights, that is back in the 80's!!!
As I told you on AIM CodeRed, wait until I get back home, I will test for the wire, and give you a break down how to re-wire it properly with a relay not using the stock fuse box.
**cough cough** Better to suggest a DMM and get into the habit of using it than a test light. I do not even have a test light in my tool box anymore, as I never use them installing ANYTHING anymore.Jemdawg wrote:Using a test light is fine if you know what you're doing. For someone who has no experience with them, though, a multimeter would be better and safer.