XAT Racing is the only ones that know my ar.Hell I don't even know LOL, sponsors are sometimes secretive.The spool up is fast, reaching full boost @4500 (I'm guessing my tach is off)Here's a link to my setup, its out dated but you get the point.http://www.xatracing.com/lloyd.htmkarmakaze wrote:
whats the spool like on that thing. i am thinking that i am going to get the gt3076r .64 as well. which ar exhaust housing do you have?
...
gt3076r, 9K redline, sr22det.... muahahaha
Project: Building a SR20DET Head to rev 9000K+ [PICS HEAVY]
Re: (karmakaze)
Re: (S13FASTBACKSR)
i am leaving today for key west, but i will hit you up after I get back on the 10th.S13FASTBACKSR wrote:no problem bro..ive been doin tons of research..if you want to talk turbos some more IM me on AIM..my screenname is pimpmeistroness...i like to talk turbo talk or anything automotive for that matter
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S13FASTBACKSR
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- Car: '92 Fastback SR powered
Re: (karmakaze)
JDogg95 wrote:XAT Racing is the only ones that know my ar.Hell I don't even know LOL
JR I am pretty sure you have the .82 a/r turbine housing IIRC. And yes if you are on the USDM 240sx tach it will be slightly off.
awesome bro are you driving down to the keys? if so you'll be passing right thru my neck of the woods..alright man have fun its bad *** down there..drink it up!!!karmakaze wrote:i am leaving today for key west, but i will hit you up after I get back on the 10th.
Re: (S13FASTBACKSR)
Yeah, I will be driving. Email me your number, if I go through there during the day I will call you.S13FASTBACKSR wrote:
JR I am pretty sure you have the .82 a/r turbine housing IIRC. And yes if you are on the USDM 240sx tach it will be slightly off.
awesome bro are you driving down to the keys? if so you'll be passing right thru my neck of the woods..alright man have fun its bad *** down there..drink it up!!!
Re: (karmakaze)
after moving your redline to 9K what is the next weaklink?
i have learned that after upgrading certain parts, others have to be upgraded to match. what would be the next problem area with a 9000rpm redline?
i am assuming that the transmission is going to be the problem area now? (for me anyway, as all parts in my bottom end have been cryo treated or forged)
Modified by karmakaze at 9:31 AM 3/2/2007
i have learned that after upgrading certain parts, others have to be upgraded to match. what would be the next problem area with a 9000rpm redline?
i am assuming that the transmission is going to be the problem area now? (for me anyway, as all parts in my bottom end have been cryo treated or forged)
Modified by karmakaze at 9:31 AM 3/2/2007
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S13FASTBACKSR
- Posts: 2177
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- Car: '92 Fastback SR powered
Re: (karmakaze)
email sent to the address in your profile..get back at me man -alex
Re: (S13FASTBACKSR)
It's off because like a crackhead I took off the needles to put the white gauge faces on.S13FASTBACKSR wrote:
JR I am pretty sure you have the .82 a/r turbine housing IIRC. And yes if you are on the USDM 240sx tach it will be slightly off.
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S13FASTBACKSR
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- Car: '92 Fastback SR powered
Re: (JDogg95)
lol oh i see..so now its off worse than it would normally be..lol nice going JR..but ya i am pretty sure your turbine housing is the .82....
So Ben after you have a built head capable of reving past 9k you are gonna want to have a built block...without a built block it is risky to rev past 9k IMO. Now say you dont care about reving anymore past 9K..well then the only weaklink I can think of is that at 9krpm the gears are spinning very very fast obviously..and it would be quite hard to shift into gear at those speeds...I talked to a guy who reved his SR to 8500 who was a very very good driver and he had trouble getting into gear at those rpm's..I feel a 300zx tranny would be the best option to solve this problem or atleast help.
So Ben after you have a built head capable of reving past 9k you are gonna want to have a built block...without a built block it is risky to rev past 9k IMO. Now say you dont care about reving anymore past 9K..well then the only weaklink I can think of is that at 9krpm the gears are spinning very very fast obviously..and it would be quite hard to shift into gear at those speeds...I talked to a guy who reved his SR to 8500 who was a very very good driver and he had trouble getting into gear at those rpm's..I feel a 300zx tranny would be the best option to solve this problem or atleast help.
Re: Re: (karmakaze)
No opinions on modifying hydraulic lifters to solid types??karmakaze wrote:This might be a retarded questions, but what about taking apart a hydraulic lifter, removing the guts and having shims cut and inserted into them?
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S13FASTBACKSR
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- Car: '92 Fastback SR powered
Re: Re: (karmakaze)
My opinion on that is it is a good thought but if it is able to be done i dont know..I always wondered how Matt machined his very own solid lifters (MBV's) to fit sr heads or just how he machined them period. Maybe this is what he did? just a thought..but ya i think its a good idea but you'd have to talk to somebody who knows about the internals of the hydro lifters
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thang nguyen
- Posts: 215
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- Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Fastback
Re: Re: (S13FASTBACKSR)
I am debating, and was wondering if Titanium valves necessary for such an application? or are stock valves strong enough to handle the revolutions and power?
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S13FASTBACKSR
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Re: Re: (thang nguyen)
i was talking to a guy who had an sr putting out over 500horse on stock valves.
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thang nguyen
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- Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Fastback
Re: Re: (S13FASTBACKSR)
cool. one less thing to buy.
Re: Re: (thang nguyen)
about making a stock HLA into solid, i had a guy try to sell me a set of "solid lifters" but all it looked like was the stock HLA's pulled apart, removed the spring/ball thingee in there, and just replaced it with a stock shim. It fit right into it and then just put it back together without the lock ring around it. Didn't trust the guy so i did't buy them, but i swear that's all it looked like to me becasue i have pulled my stock HLA's apart for cleaning purposes before and to see what was going on inside that thing. Not saying that's what they were for a fact though...
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ILikeMy240sx
- Posts: 5358
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- Car: SR Power
I finished putting the head on my car... It took me a very long time and I ended up finishing at 3... damn it.
Few observations1) Very lopey and rough idle below 1000 RPM
2) When I floor it, it feels like a semi truck whaled me in my back and it does so until the rev limiter
3) Motor sounds so much healthier reving to the rev limiter not like things are going to break... sounded sketchy reving to the rev limiter on HLAs.
I need to post more pics and prob videos but there are still few things that need to be done so I'll keep you guys updated.
Few observations1) Very lopey and rough idle below 1000 RPM
2) When I floor it, it feels like a semi truck whaled me in my back and it does so until the rev limiter
3) Motor sounds so much healthier reving to the rev limiter not like things are going to break... sounded sketchy reving to the rev limiter on HLAs.
I need to post more pics and prob videos but there are still few things that need to be done so I'll keep you guys updated.
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nonvtecaccord
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Re: (nismofly)
sweet, I really want to see some video.
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thang nguyen
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- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:23 pm
- Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Fastback
Re: (nonvtecaccord)
can't wait. Yea, keep the test shims and guides for me.
Re: (thang nguyen)
can i hop in line for the test kit?
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ILikeMy240sx
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- Car: SR Power
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ILikeMy240sx
- Posts: 5358
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
- Car: SR Power
Here are some pics....
These are the guides/shims that I ordered from Tomei. One shim was a Nissan size.
Just so you guys know... test shims/guides are identical to the shims/guides you order from Tomei after you figure out what size you need. So if you measure your clearance and its OK with the test shims/guides you use then you dont need to order that one since the test shim/guide will be the same.
All guides/shims I will be using. One guide size I needed was 3mm so I just used a stock one since they are all 3mm. Oh and one more thing. All my clearances are .005~.0055" (one was .006") The reason why I decided to run a little tighter is because cams are new and things will break in and wear out. So when they do, they will still be within spec.
Old head
NEW HEAD!!!!!
Ok now I will go over on how to set-up your cams properly.
1) Make sure your pulley is at TDC (2nd mark from the left) and the #1 lobes are facing outwards as you can see above.
2) Match up that little dimple on the cam pulley to the dark colored chain. Make sure your old cams look like this before you pull them out, that way when you install your new ones, it will go in the same way.. They will not line up like this your first try, just keep turning the crank until they do. I had to turn mine at least 50 god damn times until they finally lined up.
Also count your cam pulley teeth as shown to make sure you are DEAD on.
What they look like.
Also notice from this picture, the keyway on the intake is about 10 O'Clock and the ex side in 12 Oclock.
I will try to get a video of it running soon.
These are the guides/shims that I ordered from Tomei. One shim was a Nissan size.
Just so you guys know... test shims/guides are identical to the shims/guides you order from Tomei after you figure out what size you need. So if you measure your clearance and its OK with the test shims/guides you use then you dont need to order that one since the test shim/guide will be the same.
All guides/shims I will be using. One guide size I needed was 3mm so I just used a stock one since they are all 3mm. Oh and one more thing. All my clearances are .005~.0055" (one was .006") The reason why I decided to run a little tighter is because cams are new and things will break in and wear out. So when they do, they will still be within spec.
Old head
NEW HEAD!!!!!
Ok now I will go over on how to set-up your cams properly.
1) Make sure your pulley is at TDC (2nd mark from the left) and the #1 lobes are facing outwards as you can see above.
2) Match up that little dimple on the cam pulley to the dark colored chain. Make sure your old cams look like this before you pull them out, that way when you install your new ones, it will go in the same way.. They will not line up like this your first try, just keep turning the crank until they do. I had to turn mine at least 50 god damn times until they finally lined up.
Also count your cam pulley teeth as shown to make sure you are DEAD on.
What they look like.
Also notice from this picture, the keyway on the intake is about 10 O'Clock and the ex side in 12 Oclock.
I will try to get a video of it running soon.
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ILikeMy240sx
- Posts: 5358
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Shift_WhiteS13
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- Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx w/S14 SR20DET
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ILikeMy240sx
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- Car: SR Power
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sochinkyeyesshut
- Posts: 306
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- Car: PS13 Sr20Det I/E/FMIC/Tanabe Coilovers and other mods
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Shift_WhiteS13
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:26 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx w/S14 SR20DET
Re: (ILikeMy240sx)
What will car be used for? Drift? Drag? Daily? Autocross? Road Racing?
The higher RPM limit probably sounds real awesome getting to redline. I can't begin to imagine what it would sound like on an SR with VVT. Man this thread has got me thinking on doing the same to my engine, but I'm trying to hold out and save for the whole Tomei engine set. It kinda sucks too, 'cause I'm actually doing a whole top-end overhaul with my engine, but I'm only doing an OEM overhaul ('cause my timing chain guide is about to go). Following in your ever-knowledgable-and-helpful footsteps would put me way over budget and 2 weeks of time over due.
But, thank you for this great write up. I really think this thread should be stickied and the pics put up on a server where they can never be lost.
The higher RPM limit probably sounds real awesome getting to redline. I can't begin to imagine what it would sound like on an SR with VVT. Man this thread has got me thinking on doing the same to my engine, but I'm trying to hold out and save for the whole Tomei engine set. It kinda sucks too, 'cause I'm actually doing a whole top-end overhaul with my engine, but I'm only doing an OEM overhaul ('cause my timing chain guide is about to go). Following in your ever-knowledgable-and-helpful footsteps would put me way over budget and 2 weeks of time over due.
But, thank you for this great write up. I really think this thread should be stickied and the pics put up on a server where they can never be lost.
Re: (Shift_WhiteS13)
VTC does not make much in the way of noticable noise unless it is having oiling issues on startup. VVL on the other hand does as it is the nissan version of VTEC. VTC just adjusts the timing on your intake cam. VVL comes on one of the FWD SR20's and is a pain in the *** to adapt to the RWD version of the engine.Shift_WhiteS13 wrote:What will car be used for? Drift? Drag? Daily? Autocross? Road Racing?
The higher RPM limit probably sounds real awesome getting to redline. I can't begin to imagine what it would sound like on an SR with VVT. Man this thread has got me thinking on doing the same to my engine, but I'm trying to hold out and save for the whole Tomei engine set. It kinda sucks too, 'cause I'm actually doing a whole top-end overhaul with my engine, but I'm only doing an OEM overhaul ('cause my timing chain guide is about to go). Following in your ever-knowledgable-and-helpful footsteps would put me way over budget and 2 weeks of time over due.
But, thank you for this great write up. I really think this thread should be stickied and the pics put up on a server where they can never be lost.
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DJ Cool Breeze
- Posts: 470
- Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:18 pm
- Car: Red 92 hatch,with a blacktop Sr20 in it
Re: (sochinkyeyesshut)
I just wanted to say this is a very interesting project, and i cant wait to see the end result!! you have done a fabulous job thus far and look forward to more projects from you. You have done a very nice job explaining how to do this project with pictures and diagrams and that makes it so much easier for people like myslef that need a visual aid.
on a side note...are you the one that has forged internals and cyro treated bearings? if so where did you get these bearings? and are they that much better then the stock ones......nothing is wrong with my bottom end as of right now, but it seems sr20'a are notorious for rod knock issues and id like to do some preventive work if i can.
Thanks for all your help,Dan
on a side note...are you the one that has forged internals and cyro treated bearings? if so where did you get these bearings? and are they that much better then the stock ones......nothing is wrong with my bottom end as of right now, but it seems sr20'a are notorious for rod knock issues and id like to do some preventive work if i can.
Thanks for all your help,Dan
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