Project: Building a SR20DET Head to rev 9000K+ [PICS HEAVY]

Post by **sochinkyeyesshut** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:32 pm

how safe is it to run BC cams on a stock head?? its the 264 dur 12.06mm series

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:51 am

the lift there is too aggressive for the stock valvetrain..springs and retainers...upgrade those and you'll be ok

Post by **sochinkyeyesshut** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:12 am

i knew it... even when it says that stock is ok

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:27 am

lol ya..hey man im the guy that was talking to you on AIM about my HKS cams..step 1 264's no mods needed..you said when you sell your turbos you will buy them...still interested?

Post by **sochinkyeyesshut** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:54 am

i wish man... i am still trying to sell the turbos but right now im still looking around for different cam setups out there...ill let you know man

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:25 pm

I got my Tomei Solid 270 Cams today!!! I waited at home for like hours for the UPS guy... and man, was it a good wait.

Here's a picture of the spiffy new boxes they came in

Out of the box

Tomei cast bling

So notice how on the exhaust cam there is a longer dowel pin for RWD applications. BC cams did not have this

Look at how giant these lobes are on Tomei solid 270 cams

This is a side-by-side view of the stock cam and the new Tomei solid cam. Notice how much larger the lobe is compared to the stock one. Also, notice how the area under the curve for the solid cams is significantly larger than the area under the curve on stock cams - one good reason to get solid cams for solid lifters. More area under the cam curve, more power.

Here's a side-by-side comparison of the base circles of the stock vs. tomei. Notice how the base circle is much thicker for stock cams (left) and thinner for solid cams (right). This is another reason to get solid cams when you are going solid lifters.

Post by **flames5351** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:36 pm

ya i know this is a little off topic... but since the BC cams don't have the longer dowel pin for the exhaust cam is that going to be a problem when i go to install my cams?? or is it going to be fine. i'm the one that bought your cams. thanks again

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:53 pm

Many people have installed RWD cam pullies even with short dowel pins and have had no problems.

So, I say its still good.

Post by **sochinkyeyesshut** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:00 pm

someone should do a camshaft install write up... like taking it apart and installing them back on..

Post by **got2b240** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:48 am

wow, basically pulled an all-nighter reading this thread, and I am about 150% more educated on the logistics of building an SR Head, or any head for that matter.

Thank you

Post by **nismofly** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:20 am

hey Taesoo, i cant remember for sure if you have a 13 or a 14 engine, youve rebuilt so many times and **** i cant remember if this is the original engine or what

i was just wondering if this is indeed a 14 engine, and if so do the tomei cams retain vvt?

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:18 pm

The head Im working on is for a S13 redtop motor which is what I have.

All Tomei cams either hydraulic or solid type retains stock VTC system for S14. You will only kill it if you install their cam pullies tho.

More info regarding Tomei cams.http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003....html

Post by **born2boost** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:56 pm

How are you measuring the shims? to my understanding there is a tool nissan uses to measure what shims are needed...or is there another technique?

Post by **redtop91** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:57 pm

http://phase2motorsports.store....html

Post by **born2boost** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:00 pm

would these work on the oem hydraulic lifters? I need to reshim mine.

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:13 pm

why do you think you need to reshim? you should never have to reshim on HLA unless yours get mixed up or your missing some

Post by **born2boost** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:17 pm

sorry i need to know where to get the tool to measure the lash

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:18 pm

Like Ive mentioned somewhere in this thread. Stock HLAs use different method of shimming. Yes, you can still do it by feeler gauge method but you will get much better results with a plate and dial tool.

Why do you need to use the plate and dial tool? That's because stock guides are all one size 3.00 mm to be exact and you size your shims relative to the guide so that the height difference between the guide and the shim while its sitting on the valve is less than .001" The plate and dial can do a really good job measuring that difference. Since HLAs can adjust via oil pressure for variations in cam clearance, you do not really need to have a specific clearance between the cam lobe and the rocker pad. This is why only the difference in height of shim and the guide is important.

Solid lifters on the other hand can't adjust for different clearances between the cam lobe and the rocker arm. Hence, it needs to be set at a specific clearance (.15mm recommended by Nissan for GTI-r motors which also uses solid lifters) that's why you need to adjust BOTH guide and shim size to achieve that clearance. The plate and dial tool in this case will not help much because its only useful in determining the difference in height between the two and it does not measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the rocker apd. This is why you need to use a feeler gauge.

Theoretically, however, you can use a feeler gauge to figure out what shim sizes you need for your HLA system by measuring the clearance between the cam lobe and the rocker arm on the guide side then adjusting the shim side to match that clearance within .001"

That's about as much as I want to talk about HLAs. They suck. go solids.

EDIT: If you really want to go HLA then talk to Matt from Importintelligence. He rents them (the tool) out for like 40 bucks.

Post by **ILikeMy240sx** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:26 pm

YAY!!! I fnishied measuring all my clearances. Ive done this so many times now I can do both intake and exh side in hour and a half. This includes taking the cams out and putting them in for each individual rocker arm. So I have to install the cams 8 times and take them out 8 times haha.

Sweet. Now I need to contact RHDJapan again and have these things shipped out. So close to having this head on my engine now... cant wait.

Post by **corey240** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 9:08 am

this thread is awsome! im going to tear down my head now thanks to this thread, then i can get my dirty *** hink of crap for a head decked and hot tanked. you beter have dyno graphs and videos when this is done! keep up the awsome build pics! btw, would it be a good combo of the 28rs (i tihnk thats it) with 264 cams?

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 1:16 pm

congrats taesoo ...you've got mail

Post by **spider_slayer** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:35 pm

i'm really just looking foward to hearing the beast opened up at 9k.

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:55 pm

corey240 wrote:btw, would it be a good combo of the 28rs (i tihnk thats it) with 264 cams?

with a gt28rs (disco potato) or a 2871r i think 264's are perfect imo

Post by **thang nguyen** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:46 am

yea. i really want to hear how it sounds like at 9K. post some videos when ur done. oh and one more thing, if your done with the test shims let us know I think i'm second in line for them, I just ordered my lifters, still need to get rockers cut though. good luck on build man.

Post by **karmakaze** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 7:06 am

This might be a retarded questions, but what about taking apart a hydraulic lifter, removing the guts and having shims cut and inserted into them?

btw, i am getting HKS stage 3 cams264 in 12mm lift272 out 11.5mm lift
Modified by karmakaze at 9:27 AM 2/28/2007

Post by **JDogg95** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:24 pm

S13FASTBACKSR wrote:this is exactly what i have been thinking about for the past week..after my solid lifters and high duration cams i am going to go with a nice size turbo that can put out 500hp while im still on the stock block..i was looking into the SC61 or the gt35r..i think these would be appropriate turbos for this goal..i havent had much time to look around much so if i find anymore i'll let you know

I have never given you a ride in my car have I?Well after I get the cams/soilds/intake/tranny/tires done (Goes in March 17th) I will let you feel the GT35R.

Post by **karmakaze** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:11 pm

JDogg95 wrote:I have never given you a ride in my car have I?Well after I get the cams/soilds/intake/tranny/tires done (Goes in March 17th) I will let you feel the GT35R.

whats the spool like on that thing. i am thinking that i am going to get the gt3076r .64 as well. which ar exhaust housing do you have?

...

gt3076r, 9K redline, sr22det.... muahahaha

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 1:25 pm

gt3076r is the next turbo of my choice as well but you might want to second guess that .63 a/r turbine housing my friend..especially if you will be bringing it to 9krpm..after having many conversations with atpturbo.com about this turbo they told me it hits 18psi at 4200rpm (the .63 a/r that is) but the .84 a/r turbine housing hits 18psi only 250rpm later!!!! and after 4krpm it doesnt matter the size of the turbine housing anymore b/c they are both pretty much already in full boost..now 2 things..obviously a bigger turbine housing will make more power and have less backpressure which puts strain on your engine..the .63 a/r is like a bottleneck after 7500rpm..thats why i would go with and thats why i am going with the .84 a/r housing.

Post by **karmakaze** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 2:10 pm

S13FASTBACKSR wrote:gt3076r is the next turbo of my choice as well but you might want to second guess that .63 a/r turbine housing my friend..especially if you will be bringing it to 9krpm..after having many conversations with atpturbo.com about this turbo they told me it hits 18psi at 4200rpm (the .63 a/r that is) but the .84 a/r turbine housing hits 18psi only 250rpm later!!!! and after 4krpm it doesnt matter the size of the turbine housing anymore b/c they are both pretty much already in full boost..now 2 things..obviously a bigger turbine housing will make more power and have less backpressure which puts strain on your engine..the .63 a/r is like a bottleneck after 7500rpm..thats why i would go with and thats why i am going with the .84 a/r housing.

good info! thanks!

Post by **S13FASTBACKSR** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:24 pm

no problem bro..ive been doin tons of research..if you want to talk turbos some more IM me on AIM..my screenname is pimpmeistroness...i like to talk turbo talk or anything automotive for that matter

Project: Building a SR20DET Head to rev 9000K+ [PICS HEAVY]

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