Project Blackout: Mrgreeneyes' Coupe Build

[mrgreeneyes]

ILoveMyRHS13 has a broadway. i know cus i bought it for him for his bday a while back.

a broadway is just a wide, single pane mirror.

a 5 panel... is... 5 panels of glass in one bigass housing

[ZX88]

where did you get those shark fins.

[fourLUG_hero]

Terrible news, broski. Some dude offered me a price I just can't pass up for my coupe (>$2k). He's gonna come check the car out/pick it up Sunday. WITH it still being on stands.

[mrgreeneyes]

damn. i cant say i blame you in the slightest.

funny part is... i sold my rolla yesterday. so i kinda have the money now. ironic?

[fourLUG_hero]

Yeah man, if he flakes, it's yours for the taking.

[mrgreeneyes]

aligned. slammed. win.

R/T Tuning hooked it UP. 5 hours straight on the rack. Pat is the mack daddy. Car drives SO damned well... all the MAX parts work wonderfully... firm, SMOOTH ride, excellent feedback.

Specs are drift oriented:

Front Camber: -2.5* (pat wants me to get s14 LCA's so he can dial in to -4*)

Front Caster: 8*

Front Toe: -.01*

Rear Camber: -2*

Rear Toe: .01*

Chassis ends up being straight as an arrow, like... off by .1* deflection over the length of the wheelbase. thats ONE TENTH of ONE DEGREE.

Front coils are maxed w/out removing collars which leaves my tires (215/45/17) one inch off the front fender rails.

Rear coils have plenty of room to go. Im running 215/45/17 back there for now (too narrow for rear, IMO) but the rational is that once i get my 18's in the rear, ill have a matching spare set of fronts for events/emergencies.

i only have terrible terrible cell pics... but ill post them in a few mins anyway.

EDIT:



Whether it looks like it or not, its tucking tire front and rear....

rears look "sunk" due to skinny a** tires, but the wheels are a good 1/2" past the fender. 18"s and 225-235 width will fix that.

i also think im going to a 215/225 40 17 in the front in the near future. more low. more clearance on the upper fender area.

BTW, the 215/45's dont rub on ANYTHING. full lock is AWESOME. i left the knuckles on the most aggressive setup, and kept the rack spacers in. car handles SO freakin good...

Modified by mrgreeneyes at 7:39 PM 11/11/2009

Modified by mrgreeneyes at 7:56 PM 11/11/2009
Modified by mrgreeneyes at 1:56 AM 11/14/2009

[mrgreeneyes]

where did you get those shark fins.

Vortekz brand.

They are vortex generators similar to the ones that are OEM on the EVO 8 (8MR?).

Ebay is the place to get em.

First coupe to have them.... yes, thats me.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Wait wait wait, Keegan just posted pictures ALL BY HIMSELF!?

DEEEEEYUM.

[mRodiek]

Wait wait wait, Keegan just posted pictures ALL BY HIMSELF!?

DEEEEEYUM.

lol

Looks good, your coupe is the initial reason I wanted a coupe, the fins lookin freakin rad.

[Didderson]

Good to see an update by the man himself lol +1 doug. I was about to post a pic but i had class all afternoon.

Alignment specs: Amazing. Those are the specs I was trying to get with my self alignment. Maybe with the change in seasons next year I'll get down to R/T tuning as well for a checkup.

Awesome to hear that the car handles like a dream on the AGGRESSIVE PBM knuckle setting!

Car's got some unique style with the vorteks and the wing. Dude, rear diffuserrrr

[White Comet]

so no more type x?

[fourLUG_hero]

Awesome to hear the knuckles actually work perfect for street driving now. Now buy my coupe so I can buy my dream wheels before somebody else does!

Oh yeah, WTF is up with having stock front bumper?

[Bumnah]

Is your toe .1 in or out?

That .1 difference in settings probably changed within' the first 30 feet of driving.

A lot of alignment guys have told me to run 1/2 a degree of difference in the caster. Helps the car stay straight, due to road crowning. My latest alignment I kept the caster even and it tracked a bit more to the right.

How does -4 degrees of front camber come into play for a drift alignment? I understanding running tons of rear camber to make the contact patch smaller, but why so much negative camber in the front? I would almost argue the opposite, less camber in the front to increase front end grip, there by increasing over steer.

Obviously this is all theory since I'm not an alignment expert, and I understand drift alignment even less.

PS. If you want -4 camber now, you can probably get it without s14 lcas. You can length the slots on the camber plates on the max coil overs. If you didn't want to modify the plates, pick up some H&R camber bolts (they replace the bolts where the front knuckle bolts to the coilover.). You also make slots for the holes in the strut towers where the coilovers mount. You can also slot the bracket where the knuckles mount.

I'd personally slot the camber plates, or get the H&R camber bolts.

[fourLUG_hero]

Is your toe .1 in or out?

That .1 difference in settings probably changed within' the first 30 feet of driving.

A lot of alignment guys have told me to run 1/2 a degree of difference in the caster. Helps the car stay straight, due to road crowning. My latest alignment I kept the caster even and it tracked a bit more to the right.

How does -4 degrees of front camber come into play for a drift alignment? I understanding running tons of rear camber to make the contact patch smaller, but why so much negative camber in the front? I would almost argue the opposite, less camber in the front to increase front end grip, there by increasing over steer.

Obviously this is all theory since I'm not an alignment expert, and I understand drift alignment even less.

This is from my own experience and understanding:

During a drift, full lock causes positive camber on the outside front wheel (the wheel with the most traction). This is compounded when the LCA's point upwards from being UNNECESSARILY low. You fix this by dialing in HELLA negative camber. It makes for a flat contact patch on the outside tire thus increasing front traction.

For the rear, people usually run 0* to -1* rear camber to make for more even tire wear thus increasing the life of the tire, and also more "grip" so they control the car better with the throttle. People who run HELLA negative camber are usually people with stock KA's (like me) to spin easier.

This is why you see alot of SoCal cars that look like they have positive rear camber. It's because they're running minimal rear camber and ALOT of front camber.

Hope that helps.

[Dizel01]

Hey Hey good lookin.

[Bumnah]

This is from my own experience and understanding:

During a drift, full lock causes positive camber on the outside front wheel (the wheel with the most traction). This is compounded when the LCA's point upwards from being UNNECESSARILY low. You fix this by dialing in HELLA negative camber. It makes for a flat contact patch on the outside tire thus increasing front traction.

For the rear, people usually run 0* to -1* rear camber to make for more even tire wear thus increasing the life of the tire, and also more "grip" so they control the car better with the throttle. People who run HELLA negative camber are usually people with stock KA's (like me) to spin easier.

This is why you see alot of SoCal cars that look like they have positive rear camber. It's because they're running minimal rear camber and ALOT of front camber.

Hope that helps.

Did you just talk about rear tire wear on a drift car? When does having negative camber affect tire wear? Toe is a bigger factor when it comes to tire wear.

Now I'm gaining interest in all of this drift alignment stuff.

I don't know many drifting people, and the ones I know I believe have stated -3 camber front, and -4 camber rear for alignment setups. I always figured those camber settings were for wheel fitment.

[fourLUG_hero]

Did you just talk about rear tire wear on a drift car? When does having negative camber affect tire wear? Toe is a bigger factor when it comes to tire wear.

I meant tire life. My bad. Having negative camber means you'll wear down only the inner edge all the way down to the wires from drifting while the outer edge will be relatively untouched.

Sure, on a street car, toe is a bigger factor. But on the track, you want the most life per set of tires. Thus, take some negative camber out.

I always figured those camber settings were for wheel fitment.

There's wheel fitment settings and then there's pro-drift settings. The cool people find the balance in between.

[mrgreeneyes]

jeff: what?

bumnah:

these were the recommended settings for MY car with MY setup by PAT @ RT Tuning. he is THE alignment guy to go to, so i take his word. worth the time/money 100%. super cool shop, cool dudes, legit reputation.

the reason you hear all these crazy numbers is people who 1) dont have rear subframe risers 2) dont have hardcore knuckles 3) dont have the rest of the suspension catalog to compliment it.

the .1 degree of toe is toe in.

heres the logic as explained to me by Pat.

for the rear camber. stock KA (no boost) he recommends -2* for best combo of traction when you need it (recovery) and breakaway tire contact patch. he said as power increases, camber needs to flatten out, usually to 0* after the 250hp ish mark.

for the front caster, i wanted a BALANCED setup as i dont mind holding the wheel a little to keep it from going off the road lol... id rather have a car that turns the same left to right. Pat and i both hold this opinion/preference. a lot of my driving is highway, so this is negligible.

front camber, 4lughero nailed it. its to compensate for camber changes at/approaching full lock (something a grip car would never see). this setup is to enhance the extremes of turning radii.

all i can say, is when Pat handed Matt Petty the alignment printout, Petty said "damn thats perfect" and they both recommended the s14 lca's for more camber to accentuate my knuckles.

i cant use eccentric bolts for the coils brackets cus the wheels are within 2mm of the coils as is. cant use that at all. im not cutting my towers or max plates. ill take those guys' word for what it is... they didnt try to sell me any parts thru their company.. they just made a recommendation, so its not like its a biased thing or an upsell...

any other questions... ask away, ill answer to the best of my ability!


Modified by mrgreeneyes at 12:12 AM 11/12/2009

[mrgreeneyes]

Hey Hey good lookin.

hey, can i play dressup with your rear works? i want to see exactly how that exact tire size and wheel size will fit/look.

we should have a black coupe play date

[White Comet]

lol i was just wondering if you're still interested in the type front. stance looks perfect now. can't wait to see it in person

[240lookis]

looks and sounds good man. im jealous of your well built and aligned suspension setup.

18s with 235/40 in the back would def be nice.

as to your fronts, im running 205/45 on 17x9 and it doesnt rub. stupid size though. im going for 225/40 when i get new tires because it will have more clearance and more grip than my current 205/45. just FYI, i would go for 225/40 if you are not rubbing with 215/45 like you stated.

[mrgreeneyes]

type x

if you had a lip for it in your possession, it would be game over.

sadly i thought i would be happy with pig front/lip again. oem fitment is nice, but my car it too far past "simple" to pull just that front off again...

i look at pics with my aero and i miss it already. its a type x style aero... i LOVE that look, but w/out a type x lip, the oem type x bumper wont match the rest of my car...

so i think im gonna try to either 1) repair my current aero and mount it properly (moar zipties) or 2) buy different aero front 3) find a CRACKHEAD deal on a type x lip and buy your stuff.

[White Comet]

with the deal i'm offering on the front, even a lip at full price would be hundreds less then what the going price for the front with a lip will be

[Bumnah]

those were suggestions until you found your s14 lcas.i run s14 lcas for the same reason.

white comet: if the price is right. email me the details.

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Dayummm Keegan your car looks so good, I hope all of the Lancaster crew gets together sometime soon, hopefully I'll be running by then, cause I wanna see all these 240's in person.

[Dizel01]

hey, can i play dressup with your rear works? i want to see exactly how that exact tire size and wheel size will fit/look.

we should have a black coupe play date

Haha, our coupes are gonna be complete sluts.

[brn-n-jpn]

aggressive aero with proper fitment wheels is always going top look nice

[ZX88]

buy wc's front get an frp lip.modiride has one for 250ish shipped.( great fitment) Sure it will smash if you hit something hard enough but lips are pretty easy to fix if they are not completely destroyed.

[mrgreeneyes]

buy wc's front get an frp lip.modiride has one for 250ish shipped.( great fitment) Sure it will smash if you hit something hard enough but lips are pretty easy to fix if they are not completely destroyed.

i like my s*** low enough to destroy things. ill RAPE that lip so quick...

and yet... part of me considers this an option.

HOW low does that lip sit? measure from the bottom of the lip on the side, to the top of the type x extension on the fender.

[mrgreeneyes]

Is your toe .1 in or out?

That .1 difference in settings probably changed within' the first 30 feet of driving.

i reread my printout of the alignment.

its -.01*total toe biased to the driver.

its -.02* "out" on the driverside, and +.01* on the passenger. add those two together to get the combined "-.01*" and youre golden.

that toe bias is my correction for crowned roads.