Progress on built motor *PIX*

[IvanAtSPRacing]

I got two blocks back from the machine shop and started assembly today.

Arais pistons, Shotpeened factory rods with ARP BBC bolts (circled), Clevite bearings.

Micropolished crank, main girdle, rebuilt reworked front cover with oil pump.

Bored, honed w/ deckplate, painted block.

Surface decked for Cometic gasket, brass oil port pulled and tapped for plug (circled)

Notice the factory piston squirters reinstalled, Clevite bearings with assembly lube.

Crankshaft nicely tucked into place.

Electric ring filer, feeler gauges, etc

I got the block, crank, main girdle all ready to go. Popped the oil squirters back into the block after blowing them out well. Installed the bearings in the block and lubed them up. Layed the crank into place. Installed the bearings in the main girdle (dry) and plastic gauged the mains. With just a polish on the crank and the main crank bore untouched, the oil clearance was exactly what I wanted (.002") all the way across. Once I cleaned the PG off the crank and bearings, I lubed up the lower main bearings and torqued the girdle into place. The crank spins like butter. No rough spots.

I checked ring gaps and found the top ring to be too tight for my liking so I spent about 1/2 hour filing the rings to fit. The Bottom rings were fine from Arais for a boosted application so I didnt have to file them. Thats about as far as I got today.

Monday I hope to get the entire rotating assembly together.

I will keep you updated

[SHIEF]

Lookin good Got 2 questions for you Ivan. Will the stock oil pump gears/system be ok for a reliable 400+hp? What it the purpose for the oil port being tapped? Does whatever your doing to the port apply to a kae as well? Thanks in advance.

[Structure240sx]

you did all that in one day? wow, maybe i should hang aroudn my uncles machine shop a little more often.

good job buddy

[Structure240sx]

just re-read and saw that they were previously machined. still got a lot more done then i would have.

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Stock oil pump has been good to almost 600whp on other cars. I believe with the shimmed pressure relief valve, it will have OP good to 8K rpms.

The factory block has a brass plug keeping oil from passing thru the hole on the deck of the block. Its known to leak over time and especially with elevated oil pressure. This mod is done to keep oil from leaking out of the hole. As far as the E block, I dont know.... I havent taken one apart yet.
Modified by IvanAtSPRacing at 12:45 AM 11/7/2004

[IvanAtSPRacing]

just re-read and saw that they were previously machined. still got a lot more done then i would have.

Actually, this was only about 2 hours of work. It was extreamly busy at work today. I actually sold the head studs I had for H&Ks motor to another customer so I will have to wait for ARP to get me another set. I would figure by the end of the week, it should be a long block.

[gawath]

Looking good Ivan

[klattr1]

i cant wait to see what H&K's car makes as far as power!

[MikeMurphy]

Thanks for the pictures Ivan. I really appreciate them!

[NateDogg]

Once I cleaned the PG off the crank and bearings, I lubed up the lower main bearings and torqued the girdle into place.

What is "PG off the crank and bearings"?

Nice hardware..where's the pistons?

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Plastic gauge. When you use the PG to measure clearances, it sticks to the crank and bearings. You must remove this prior to final assembly.

[slipnfall]

I'm curious about this brass plug also. Is it intended to be a 'service' port of sorts?

[IvanAtSPRacing]

This is a hole that was drilled at the factory for an oil passage. You cant cast a hole that is blind on both ends. So this is drilled to connect two passages and then capped on one end. The brass plug has been known to leak especially when shimming the oil relief valve for more oil pressure. Removing the plug allows for cleaning that port with a rifle brush and tapping that hole for an NPT plug will allow for a leak free seal.

[npaulseth]

Hey, looking good. I hope everything runs according to plan. Looking pretty snag free so far. What are the twins HP goals w/ the stock rods? I was curious about doing that, and cryoing them for a little more added strength. Keep up updated on your progress. Pretty exciting stuff going on in Bloomingdale.

Thanks

Noah

[silkk]

Looks great!

[slipnfall]

You cant cast a hole that is blind on both ends.

Aha, I see. Well I'm not raising my OP, but I will have to point this out to my machinist also. Heck it wouldn't be much for him to tap it and plug it as you described. Thanks for the explaination!

-Slip

[Frozen240]

Ivan,

Did you have to make any modifications to the stock rods in order for the ARP BBC bolts to fit, or are they a drop in replacement for OEM?

Can you let me know what the part number is for the bolts.

Thanks.

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Yes, the rods needed to be modified. I had the machine shop source the bolts so I dont have the part number available. If you like, I can check with Bill and find out. They were the closest thing to a perfect fit but still needed some adaption.

[Frozen240]

I would greatly appreciate it if you could get me the part number!

[IvanAtSPRacing]

Worked on the motor for a bit on Monday and some today. I got a bit done.

Here are the Arais pistons going into place. Perfect fit

Here is a pic with the ARP head studs installed

Cometic gasket in place

Here are the new upgraded Nissan guides. Big difference in the bolts (circled in red right) that hold this tensioner on. No more sholder bolts. Upgraded tensioner (circled red left) from Nissan.

Here is the upgraded upper tensioner (circled red) from Nissan. Notice the lack of guides (circled blue) on the head. These are supposed to be deleated with the new tensioner from Nissan.





Its coming along nicley IMO.

[nizmo240sx_22]

Looks amazing. Just wondering what cam profiles these are running?

[IvanAtSPRacing]

just good old stock 91 cams for their 91 240

[Redline240]

Looking awsome Ivan! So does Nissan still sell the old kits? Are there different part numbers? i don't wanna end up getting the old stuff!

Redline

[IvanAtSPRacing]

All of the items shown can be found here http://www.courtesyparts.com/S14-TBKIT.html

That should help you.

[WDRacing]

That site rocks for parts.

[nr2134]

Looking good man. Got to stop by the shop and check it out.

[turtl631]

Someone needs to get one of these engines, run a standalone for about 400 whp, and then just go crazy on the suspension/bracing/brakes etc and make the ultimate all around USDM 240sx for street, autoX, mountain roads, track days, etc. Seems like most of the guys with big power just have basic suspension stuff, and most guys with lots of suspension work are drifters. Anyways though, awesome engine build, I relaly like this thread. Seeing an engine being assembled really helps you understnad where parts go, what they do, etc.

[Redline240]

Someone needs to get one of these engines, run a standalone for about 400 whp, and then just go crazy on the suspension/bracing/brakes etc and make the ultimate all around USDM 240sx for street, autoX, mountain roads, track days, etc.

No time like the present to quote our old friends Cuba and Tom....

"SHOW ME THE MONEY!!!!"

Show Ivan, WD, hell show me the money and we'll do just that for you...

Redline

[turtl631]

**** I'll do it if you show me the money I guess what you run into is that for the cost of somethign like this, you could go to a better stock platform i.e. FD, supra, 350z, etc. I still think it would be cool though

[gabossie]

What fun is that? And since when is a Supra a better track platform? My suspension is mostly done, although still sitting in the living room. And the next step is the motor build up and turbo. It's money and time that are well worth it. All said and done, I will have spent around 20k for everything, including the car.