Problems with Alarm Install with Remote Start

[AeonTorpor]

I'm having a bit of a problem. I purchased a Viper 5701 alarm and figured I'd give this a shot at installation. I've researched it quite a bit and got to installing.

I've connected

H3:Ignition 1 & 2Acc. in and outStarter in and outPower

H1:PowerSirenGroundTrunkDoorDomelightParking Light

Remote Start In:Neutral Safety SwitchTachBrakeHood pin

Valet Program & status LED are connected to the Antenna Four pin Connector which is also plugged in.

The Switch that came with it is also plugged in.

Door Locks are connected to the relay and made to the F-type diagram.

Now the Problem list:

Car will not start. Tries to but the fuel pump isn't being engaged.

No LEDs light up on my gauge.

Accessories won't turn on.

If anyone can help me out please shoot some suggestions. I'd hate to get this far along and have to take it to an installer for some simple problem.

[zerepdivad]

Did you hook up second starter? do you have it set for auto or manual trans mode? Is your car auto or manual? more details.

[AeonTorpor]

My car is a manual transmission. The Instructions on the alarm specifies it to be defaulted to manual mode. There are two ignition wires, both of which i have connected. I'm not aware that there was a second starter. What wire would that be?

My car should be in my sig, but it's a 91 240sx manual trans. Thanks for any help!

[zerepdivad]

Ok since it is in manual transmission mode have you done all the steps needed for a manual car? Such as hooking into the clutch switch, parking brake, tach,and door triggers? ALL of those are needed for remote start on a manual vehicle with this unit.

[AeonTorpor]

I'm not so much worried about the remote start as I am the lack of accessory power and door locks.

I had indeed hooked the brake, tach and door triggers up. I know the door triggers work because i've opened the door and it goes off immediately. I can't test the brake and tach unless I'm getting accessory power so that I can turn the car on. I hooked up my clutch neutral safety switch to it, I'm guessing correctly, but unless I get it running I wouldn't think I'd know.

I might just have to take it in to have the install done.

[zerepdivad]

Did you hook up all 3 reds on the ignition harness?

[AeonTorpor]

No, the Red/Black says it's for accessory and starter relays. Orange is the accessory output. I figured the Red/Black would be the input, just as the other reds are for Ignition 1 and 2.

Was I wrong in thinking I'd go Acc.->Red/Black->alarm->Orange->Acc. out?

[zerepdivad]

You got it wrong my man.

The 3 reds, red white, red, red black all go to constant 12 volts. orange goes to accessory on your car, and your start in and out are green and purple if you want starter kill. If you do not want starter kill you will go ahead and just hook up the purple wire.

[AeonTorpor]

oh... well for my accessory wire, what do I do there? Is the orange just spliced in?

[zerepdivad]

Yup just spliced in with the accessory wire. Which if i recall right its your blue wire. It will get 12 volts in accessory and drop to 0 during cranking.

[AeonTorpor]

Well, hell. That just may have been all my problems. I'll reconnect that here in a while and see. Thanks.

EDIT: It's raining, damnit! I guess I'll try it tomorrow.
Modified by AeonTorpor at 5:16 PM 11/28/2009

[zerepdivad]

Yeah no problem. SNap a picture too. Curious to see others installs.

[AeonTorpor]

Alright, I'll definitely snap a few, but all i have is my blackberry.

It stopped raining, it was really just sprinkles, but I'm in AZ, so cut me a break! haha. I'm thinking this through, here.

All reds to constant power? Meaning really->White?

and then all pinks to Ignition?Meaning->spliced in?

and the only signal interrupting is the starter?

[zerepdivad]

No not all pinks to ignition! Solid pink to ignition 1. And pink white is for ignition 2 but i don't recall 240s having one. I could be wrong so TEST with a multimeter. And clip off the pink/black. You won't need it for this application. But you DO have 2 starter wires. And if i recall right you can hook up the pink/white to second starter and program it as your second starter.

[bundy26]

Alright, I'll definitely snap a few, but all i have is my blackberry.

It stopped raining, it was really just sprinkles, but I'm in AZ, so cut me a break! haha. I'm thinking this through, here.

All reds to constant power? Meaning really->White?

and then all pinks to Ignition?Meaning->spliced in?

and the only signal interrupting is the starter?

I happened to see that you have a problem with a remote starter, I install these for a living, let me know specifically what the problem is , I think I can really help you out.

[AeonTorpor]

Okay, so I wired the bugger wrong to begin with. I've fixed the Constant +12V issue.

Pink tied to Ignition 1Pink/White tied to Ignition 2

all Reds tied to White (constant +12V)

That fixed my accessory and starting problem.

I am not getting Remote start or Door locks, I'm mostly worried about the door locks.

For door locks it seems that Green/Blue/Red come out of the alarm into the relay that comes with the alarm. This relay does no good for the 240sx because it is an F-type door locking system. (so I've understood)

I bought another relay and out of the relay that came with, followed this diagram. http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/d...M.pdf

I'm not sure where I went wrong on this. I wired it exactly the same.

[bundy26]

When you test the door lock switch on the door ,what kind of signal does it work with?

[zerepdivad]

Are you positive it has that type? Because mine actually had a separate lock/unlock wire. Right now how you have that wired do both doors react when you lock and unlock manually from the driver door or no?

[zerepdivad]

When you test the door lock switch on the door ,what kind of signal does it work with?

It does not have a door lock switch.

Did you hook up the red wire on the harness with the door triggers up to constant 12volts as well? If not do so. Are you getting anything at all from the lock harness.

Also what diagram are you going off of? Because most out there list your second starter wire as second ignition if i recall right. What is it testing as? Are you testing the wires?
Modified by zerepdivad at 6:00 PM 11/28/2009

[AeonTorpor]

Ok.

All of the starter and ignition wiring is correct, it starts great.

I'm not worried about the remote start right now. I want the doors working. I'm pretty sure i know what's wrong w/ the remote start.

The doors use an f-type diagram. They have one master wire. Orange/Black. It's +12V when locked and 0 when unlocked.

I wired the door locks just as that diagram I had posted said. It's still not working.

[zerepdivad]

Negative trigger to that wire should lock the doors. ANd cutting it should unlock them. Verify this. Put the wire back together and lcok the doors manually and then cut the wire. They should unlock.

Then put them back together. ANd get a fused wire with a 1 amp fuse or so and tap it to ground. That should lock the doors. DO this and verify you actually have a 1 wire system. Do you have a orange/blue right above or below that orange/black by chance?

[AeonTorpor]

I don't believe there's another orange. Just that one. However, I found that problem. I confused myself into thinking that the relay it came with had to be used. It was fully wired to the output on the alarm. Turns out I had to cut it off of the alarm and use just the wiring strait out of the alarm into the NEW relay that I bought separately. So, Door Locks DONE!

I'll worry about the remote start some other time. I'm very satisfied with these results.

Thank you guys so much for the help!

[zerepdivad]

I don't believe there's another orange. Just that one. However, I found that problem. I confused myself into thinking that the relay it came with had to be used. It was fully wired to the output on the alarm. Turns out I had to cut it off of the alarm and use just the wiring strait out of the alarm into the NEW relay that I bought separately. So, Door Locks DONE!

I'll worry about the remote start some other time. I'm very satisfied with these results.

Thank you guys so much for the help!

Hmm yeah i figured you had actually cut off that relay pack since you said you weren't using it. Should have asked i guess. Good to know you got that figured out.

[AeonTorpor]

Yeah, the manual didn't say a whole lot about the already attached pack and it had green and blue outs, so I just thought that was it.

The remote start problem is a matter of:

Neutral Safety SwitchE-BrakeTach

I have the regular brake hooked up correctly for sure.This is how I have them hooked up right now:

Neutral Safety Switch (black/white from RS in harness)->Pin 35 on ECU (says to Neutral Safety Switch)E-Brake-> no input that i could find?Tach (violet/white from RS in Harness)->Pin 2 on ECU (says to tach)

[zerepdivad]

Your neutral safety wire will go to your parking brake if i recall correctly, To verify you got the correct tach wire start the car by key and hold down the button on the antenna. If it turns a solid blue then you got the right tach and it learned it.

[AeonTorpor]

Damn. Then I guess the tach is wrong because I tried that and wondered why it didn't light up. I'll try another signal tomorrow and see if the neutral switch is correct.

[AeonTorpor]

Ok. My alarm has been working just dandy for the last half year or so... well my friend steps on my Valet/Program Switch and now it caused the chirp on arm and disarm to stop working. It is just dead silent. Now, reading the instructions, I tried to reset the system to default. What ended up happening is that my remote no longer works. I push lock or unlock and it sits for a few seconds the flashes red and orange and emits an error tone. Hurray! Can anyone help me out with this? I have no clue how to reset this thing if my remote won't work, the alarm's useless without it. Please help!

[AeonTorpor]

I've found the solution after buggering around with it for an hour. Luckily my spare remote wasn't de-programmed. So I somehow screwed up the programming in my remote. Now my alarm wasn't doing what I wanted it to do anyway at the moment, so I decided to reset it. At that point both remotes are now not programmed for the alarm. Here's how we fix this.

Resetting the Alarm: (if you do this series of steps you most likely will need to follow the next two series)
1. Turn key to On.
2. Push the Valet/Program button 3 times.
3. Push and hold the Valet/Program button. (it should beep 3 times)
4. Press Lock on your remote. (you should hear a beep indicating it has been accepted)
5. Let go of the Valet/Program button and turn the ignition to Off.

Setting remote into program mode: (this series of steps must be done moments before attempting the next series)
6. Grab spare remote.
7. Hold the function button until the green light next to the lock button appears.
8. Hold the remote start button until the remote beeps 3 times.

Programming the remote to the Alarm:
9. Turn key to On.
10. Push the Valet/Program button 1 time.
11. Push and hold the Valet/Program button. (it should beep 1 time)
12. Press Lock on the remote. (you should hear a little jingle from the remote and and beep or two from the alarm)
13. Let go of the Valet/Program button and turn the ignition to Off.

This was a really crappy way to learn how to program an alarm, but i hope it helps someone else down the road.

[zerepdivad]

you likely had it in car 2 mode.

[AeonTorpor]

I had at one point. I had changed it back into car 1 mode and it still wouldn't respond, who knows at this point. At least it's working now.