problems while tuning with a wideband and safc help

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AN89HATCH
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I jsut got my ka24e done today, so i installed the wideband, and tryed to get it running but i ran into a cupple problems. first i have 460cc rx7 injectors and when i set the 100 ne low throttle point to -41 my car idles on the wideband goes to 17 so inorder to get a 14 -15 idle my injectors must be set to +10 wich makes no sence cause that seems like way to much fuel to be going in to the motor why is this? I am tuning while not driving the car. must i drive the car? I was reving the car, and trying to hold the rpm and tuning just to see if i can atleast get it to 14.5 threw the whole rpm. also if i rev the car and let go of the gas it runs into air fuel ratio of 10 then the wideband says rich and the car sounds like its going to die, then it stays on. last my vacume is only reading 10 is this normal? or should it be reading more? also i cant really hear the turbo at idle it or when i rev to 3k rpm (thats the highest i reved it) my turbo is a t3/t4 50 trim. is this normal or should there be a whistle sound? how the hell do i tune this thing lol


nissanfanatic
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Drive the car in whatever range you are tuning for. You should set base points on the SAFC before driving. Like in low throttle map, set whatever percentage larger the 460s are over stock. Add that much fuel across teh board on low throttle setting. Then go drive in low throttle and tweak to your liking. Same goes for high throttle. But you should prolly leave it at 0 for base runs. Watch the wideband and adjust based on what you get from that. Its way easier than you are making it man...:p Just do the damn thing.

Structure240sx
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there is a problem with your idle since its at 10 vac. check for vaccum leaks

what are all of your safc settings?

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Craving4Boost
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a turbo like a t3/t4 will not really make a sound at 3000rpm...with more rpm or boost..then you'll probably hear it

AN89HATCH
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i def know there is a vac or boost problem since i can only boost 3 lbs then that dies off. also my vac is still at 10. running na what would it be? when i was na my vac read 10 also. The % that guys on this site said to run were -41 across the low throttle to get to stock injectors. my problem is when i go -41 across the low my cars idle ends up having an air ratio like 17 or 18, and i know thats to lean. just to get my low end in vacume to cruse at 13.1-14.9 my settins are so far apart 1k is like +15 then 2k is at -3 then 3k +19 I dont understand why they are so far away from each other should i still just use the -41 across the low end or will this be bad for the motor since my air fuel reads 17+ or would the vacume and boost leak have something to do with my problem? also when tuning the hi end do i just go to the rpm im trying to tune. then just floor the car and shoot for 11.1-12.5 air fuel across the hi thr

Florida240sx
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Are the injectors clean?Maybe grouding issue with them?

HolyShiznit
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Is the timing right on the motor? Timing can affect your vacuum and A/F's. Make sure that it's correct.

AN89HATCH
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i dont know if the injectors are clean but i can gett hec ar to idle at at 14.5 air fuel. and rite now i have my timing at 11 degrees

AN89HATCH
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today i noticed i can get the idle correct with a +6 at the 1k ne point then i notice for the 1500 ne point i have to go to -27 then the 2000 ne point around - -26 to -28, . I also noticed my car has a miss at idle will this make the car run lean? also for some reason my idle air fuel ratio keeps changing. lets say it can be at + 0 for 3 mn with a 14.5-15 air ratio then next thing it starts staying in the 15's and switching to 16's so i have to richen it more then it drops back to 14's and does it aagin utill i ge to +6 then it stays in 14's and 15's would my idle be to lean at 15/16 air fuel ratio? i still do not understand why i cant use the -41 % to get a 14 air fuel. I also think i found my vacume leak its the stock sr bypass valve i was not able to recirculate it yet, but i will do that today i hope thenon rec sr bypass valve is casuing all these problems lol

NateDogg
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You should re-read Structure240sx's post. He gave yousome valuable info but you never paid attention. If you ask for help and don't listen then that's just the most annoying thing.

You vacuum should be around 20-25in Hg at idle.

AN89HATCH
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NateDogg wrote:You should re-read Structure240sx's post. He gave yousome valuable info but you never paid attention. If you ask for help and don't listen then that's just the most annoying thing.

You vacuum should be around 20-25in Hg at idle.
ummm wtf are you talking about????? if he says there is something wrong wih my vacume since mine is at 10in hg, then I say " i think i found out where my vacume leak is coming from, the stock sr bov that is not recirculated" dont you think that is paying attention to structures240sx's post?? I think so man the stock sr bypass valve leaks at idle which is giving me a vacume leak believe me ive paid attention to everyones post, and yours was usless im going to rec the bypass valve tomorrow then hopefully everything works

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Craving4Boost
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idles are always weird...if you know everything if fine and you still idle around 16afr..thats ok you lose some normal behaivor using a piggyback...but if you still have 10inhg vacuum then you still have a leak

how does it feel cruising? smooth?

AN89HATCH
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Craving4Boost wrote:idles are always weird...if you know everything if fine and you still idle around 16afr..thats ok you lose some normal behaivor using a piggyback...but if you still have 10inhg vacuum then you still have a leak

how does it feel cruising? smooth?
i noticed when i start to accelerate my vacume will drop from 10hg to around 18-20 so my guess is as i acclerate the bypass valve starts to close, makng my vacume to how it should be. My car idles really good/ smooth, and cruses nice and smooth, besides the air fuel ratio's switching from 14's to 16's some times 17's (while on 460 injectors, crusing, and at like a +16 on the safc which is weird. Im also thinking since my car is trying to stall out that is what may be giving me these weird rich / lean air fuel ratios. it will run very ritch then will run lean possibly the non rec bypass valves fault. and i do not have deceleration corrections. oo yah i also have a boost leak

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Import_Ant
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AN89HATCH wrote:i dont know if the injectors are clean but i can gett hec ar to idle at at 14.5 air fuel. and rite now i have my timing at 11 degrees
shouldnt your be set at 20 degrees BTDC?

http://www.ka-t.org/tech/

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Craving4Boost
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AN89HATCH wrote:
i noticed when i start to accelerate my vacume will drop from 10hg to around 18-20 so my guess is as i acclerate the bypass valve starts to close, makng my vacume to how it should be.
you have the exact issue as me...as i currently still have the problem. i have 12inhg vacuum and when i give it partial throttle it would go down to 25 at most. it is a vacuum leak and once you find it and fix it, it will be good. do the DYI boost leak test and see where it is. im sure if you pinch your wastegate vacuum or bov or any of them...some of them may make your boost gauge go down to the actual vacuum your car should have. however you cant just keep pinching everything so just do the test. im trying to borrow an air compressor from a friend so i can do this test...whoever said you can use a bike pump is WRONG

AN89HATCH
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"shouldnt your be set at 20 degrees BTDC?"

my motor is a sohc so stock base timing is 15 degrees, and im runing 7lbs of boost so 11 should be pretty safe ( its been working so far lol)

Craving4Boost - thats exactly waht my car is also doing. but i can not find the leak lol.

I got the bov recirculated and that fixed everything! the car is now tunedand runs better than it was na I did notice one thing, how people use the % to set the base of the injectors when using safc. i dont know i that will work. my 1k setting to get a 14.5-15.0 at idle is +3, not -41 like i thought it would. i guess its weird. I mite have one more prob i may have alittle compressor serge. i noticed afterboosting fast i get alittle cha cha cha sounds like the white s14 on drift bible. I dont understand, cause all i did was recirc the stock bypass valve an now im getting that sound. it sounds cool but i dont want to mess anything up lol. i did notice i have a small kinck on my recir line that i could not help but have, but that should not be the prob since its air, and tehe is still a pretty big opening in the kink in the line. other than that the car drives perfect and feels very good at 7lbs. when tuning my clutch started to slip

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Craving4Boost
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wait a minute....all you did was recirculate the BOV and you now have 20inhg vacuum? nooo wayyyy thats impossible! lol....i guess your BOV vacuum source was leaking or your BOV itself was leaking....i guess i should try

BillKlineVT
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Your compressor surge is coming from the kink in the recirc line, I'm almost positive. This happened to me when I first setup my recirc hose. What you probably arent noticing is that the recirc hose gets softer once the car has run for a short time, making it want to kink even more, promoting compressor surge since the bov has no where to vent the air. Try using a hose clamp right at the kink to keep it from kinking, or find a stiffer/shorter hose to use for recirc.

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Import_Ant
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AN89HATCH wrote:"shouldnt your be set at 20 degrees BTDC?"

my motor is a sohc so stock base timing is 15 degrees, and im runing 7lbs of boost so 11 should be pretty safe ( its been working so far lol)
ah, I'm SOHC too and running at 20 BTDC. I guess I should do some adjusting tonight but I havent had any issues in the past 3 weeks... Im running .5 bar (7.35psig) as well...

AN89HATCH
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Craving4Boost

that stock bypass valve leaked so bad!!! it was so easy to blow air in it and have it leak on the other side lol it is verry bad sincke i rec now im getting 20 hg maby i got lucky and something fixed its self hahaha

Import_Ant

thats def to much timing!!! unless you have something to control timing. Def retard your timing. I read about .5 per lb of boost. our base timing is 15 so your advanced and boosting so i would say atleast retard to atleast the stock base timing. mine is about 10-11 degrees and having no problems and reliable

BillKlineVT

thanks alot! it is def the rec hose i unkinked it then the serge was gone then like you said it got hot and it started to serge agin lol i have 3 hose clamps keeping it not kincked rite now but i gues si need one more lol sucks whenj everything is custom so no one makes anything that will let me rec on the kat with sr intercooler. the way it is not is just temp

I have one more question i forgot to ask

I have the ful throttle tued to all 11's and my crusing going from 13.9's to 14's some times hits a low 15, but i was wondering how do i tune my part throttle boost? i noticed if i boost really slow i can start to get into boost but my air fuel ratio's are still that of my crusing 13's and 14's i dont know if i can hit full bost while at part throttle since its a laggy t3/t4 but what should i do to tune the part throttle ?

Modified by AN89HATCH at 10:39 AM 7/27/2005
Modified by AN89HATCH at 10:49 AM 7/27/2005

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Craving4Boost
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just use the same tunes you would for 1-4krpm.....you'll be fine with 14-5 AFR...but even though i dont know why you would go partial throttle through 4-6krpm in the first place....go ahead and add a little more fuel at the rpm to compensate

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Craving4Boost
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i'm sorry if you've said it before...but what BOV are you using?

AN89HATCH
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Craving4Boost wrote:i'm sorry if you've said it before...but what BOV are you using?
im on the stock sr bypass valve lol, so thats why i was having all those problems. I think the only real way i can run my rec hose with out a kinck is to get a bov i can mount on my hot pipe. the sr bypass valve is on the smic and my rec bung is on top of my intake so it sorta has to make a up side down J with out a kink

and your rite about the safc setitng. i think its fine my throttle points are 25 lo 60 hi and my motor hasnt blown so far and i boosted all nite last nite and still running perfect lol ( I wish i didnt try to boost in 5th thats what killed my clutch but luckally it dosnt slip in 1-4th gear so i can still boost hahaha. Im not used to a sohc being this fast

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Craving4Boost
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60 for hi throttle point is sort of high dont you think? but why tamper with a perfectly good working car...im glad its all working out good...as i yet to still overcome mines lol....sigh..stupid crave 4 boost..why does such a thing exist...

AN89HATCH
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Craving4Boost wrote:60 for hi throttle point is sort of high dont you think? but why tamper with a perfectly good working car...im glad its all working out good...as i yet to still overcome mines lol....sigh..stupid crave 4 boost..why does such a thing exist...
thats also what i was thinking, i think it is a little to high lol what turbo are you running and what is your hi throttle point? I want to lower it I wonder if i should go to something like 20 lo 40 hi my turbo is a 50 trim t3/t4 and i dont start boosting untill 3400-3700 rpm

Modified by AN89HATCH at 7:29 PM 7/27/2005

Modified by AN89HATCH at 7:29 PM 7/27/2005
Modified by AN89HATCH at 7:33 PM 7/27/2005

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Craving4Boost
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i have 45-50...doesnt really matter much to me right now because im not boosting haha...i do usually boodt a few seconds and i think 45-50 is good

BillKlineVT
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I run 20 LO and 50 HI... I decided on that while datalogging my AFRs because I noticed I got into boost around 20% throttle and it interpolates the a/f trim % when youre between 20 and 50, so its a good mix for partial boost. Not sure how your recirc hose is now, but I ended up using a recirc hose from a z32, just trimmed it so it was a short 90 degree bend. It's like a radiator hose and really stiff, really hard to kink. Post a pic maybe someone will have an idea of a better solution for recirculation routing.

AN89HATCH
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BillKlineVT wrote:I run 20 LO and 50 HI... I decided on that while datalogging my AFRs because I noticed I got into boost around 20% throttle and it interpolates the a/f trim % when youre between 20 and 50, so its a good mix for partial boost. Not sure how your recirc hose is now, but I ended up using a recirc hose from a z32, just trimmed it so it was a short 90 degree bend. It's like a radiator hose and really stiff, really hard to kink. Post a pic maybe someone will have an idea of a better solution for recirculation routing.
using the z32 hose may actually work, ill get some pics up soon


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